Restaurants in Lyon
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Mère Brazier
Chef Mathieu Vianney has reinvented the mythical early-20th-century restaurant that earned Mère (Eugénie) Brazier Lyon’s first trio of Michelin stars in 1933 (a copy of the original guidebook takes pride of place). Brazier was also the first-ever chef to earn two sets of three Michelin stars, a feat only equalled decades later by Alain Ducasse. Vianney is doing admirable justice to Brazier’s legacy, claiming two Michelin stars himself for his assured cuisine accompanied by an impressive (and impressively well-priced) wine list.
reviewed
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L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges
Heading some 6.5km north of central Lyon via quai Georges Clemenceau brings you to this triple-Michelin-starred restaurant of the city’s most decorated chef, Paul Bocuse. Classics include the likes of sea bass stuffed with lobster mousse in a puff-pastry shell, and thyme-roasted rack of lamb, as well as Bocuse’s signature soupe VGE (truffle soup created for former French president Valéry Giscard d’Estaing in 1975).
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Alyssaar
One of Lyon's finest exotic offerings, Alyssaar specialises in the cuisine of Aleppo, undoubtedly 'the gastronomic capital of the Middle East' as far as the Syrian-born owner of this cheap, cheerful and Syrian restaurant is concerned. Daabill (meatballs in spicy tomato sauce), kharouf (lamb in a sesame cream sauce) and kebab karaz (cherry beef) are all cooked up here.
reviewed
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Oxalis
Thanks to an Armenian grandmother and a generous dose of far-flung travel, Lyon-born chef Sonia Ezgulian fuses Mediterranean with Asian and African to create a cuisine that stuns, surprises and spans the globe. Wanna' know how to cook an Oxalis-style dinner in 45 minutes or how to make the most of Lyon's Halle de la Martinière? Sign up for one of Sonia's cooking courses.
reviewed
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L'Ouest
With the emphasis at Ouest (meaning 'west') being island (any island) cuisine, chefs trained by legendary Lyon chef Paul Bocuse cook up everything from king-prawn spring rolls with fresh mint and saffron-spiced crab soup to wok-fried Asian cod in a state-of-the-art open kitchen. Décor is minimalist, avant garde and includes a deck overlooking the Saône.
reviewed
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Grand Café des Négociants
Dubbed Les Négos by locals, this café-style brasserie with mirror-lined walls and a tree-shaded terrace has been a favourite meeting point with Lyonnais since 1864. Don’t miss a pot of its deliciously thick hot chocolate (tip: it’s cheaper before noon). Look for the gargantuan mulberry flower pots framing the apple-green and cherry-coloured tables out front.
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Plato
Sweep through thick pink curtains into this stylish plateau restaurant, decked out with contemporary flair and oozing theatre. Inventive dishes - creamy chestnut soup au foie gras or coriander-roasted magret de canard (duck) with an iced turnip and port creation - are even more delicious than their poetic names suggest.
reviewed
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Café des Fédérations
Black-and-white photos of old Lyon speckle the wood-panelled walls at this treasure of a bouchon where nothing has changed for decades – including the heaping portions, the warm service and the convivial atmosphere among diners (and, yes, the Turkish toilet. No matter, this is bouchon dining at its best).
reviewed
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L’épicerie
Done out like an early-20th-century grocer’s, with distressed cupboards full of china and old boxes and canisters, serving thick-sliced tartines (open-faced sandwiches) with toppings like brie, walnut and honey and delicious desserts like praline tart. There’s a handful of other branches in Lyon and beyond.
reviewed
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Salmon Shop
Whether smoked, pan-fried, roasted or tartare (raw), salmon appears in every dish (well, more or less) at this Nordic-style spot. Go for the house specialty pavé de saumon – thick-cut, lightly cooked salmon fillet in chive cream sauce accompanied by salads, toast and unlimited fries.
reviewed
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Le Comptoir des Filles
Elegant in its simplicity; quenelles (Lyonnais dumplings) are the specialty of this Saône-side spot. Six varieties are available each day, such as trois fromages (three-cheese) or St Jacques (scallops), along with market-prepared plats and light, luscious desserts like semolina cake.
reviewed
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Le Restaurant de Fourvière
The views are so incredible that it’d be easy for this superbly located restaurant to be a tourist trap, so it’s all the more impressive because it’s not. Instead it concentrates on well-prepared local specialties including a superb salade lyonnaise (greens, bacon, poached egg and croutons).
reviewed
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Le Cinoche
Reflecting Lyon’s cinema heritage with its old projectors, reels, lights, books and posters, savoury galettes and sweet crêpes at this cosy crêperie are named after famous films, such as Orange Mécanique (Clockwork Orange), with orange, melted chocolate and vodka-infused chantilly.
reviewed
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Brasserie Georges
Opened as a brewery in 1836 and still in the business (with four brews on tap), Georges’ enormous 1924 art deco interior can feed 2000 a day! Famous customers include Rodin, Balzac, Hemingway, Zola, Jules Verne and Piaf; food spans onion soup, sauerkraut, seafood and Lyonnais specialities.
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Café de l'Esplanade
The café itself is nothing more than your quintessential French local, but its outside seating upon Esplanade de la Grand Côte is enviable. Soak in the Lyon panorama then strut down the hillside along artist workshop-studded Montée de la Grand Côte to place des Terreaux.
reviewed
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Bistro Le Casse Museau
Fabulous find! Cram into this tiny but heaving wine bar, alias bistrot sans chiqué (bistro with no pretension) for a slurp of local Côtes du Rhone in the company of a retro tick-tock clock collection and weathered floor tiles with a thousand stories to tell.
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Le Bec
With two Michelin stars, this is the flagship restaurant of Lyon’s hottest chef Nicolas Le Bec, famed for his seasonal, world-influenced cuisine. Le Bec is also the force behind the innovative new concept space Rue Le Bec and full-service restaurant Espace Le Bec.
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Toutes les Couleurs
Lyon’s dining scene tends to overlook vegetarians, but its saving grace is this exclusively vegetarian restaurant bio, the seasonal menu of which includes végétalien (vegan) and gluten-free options. No cow’s milk here – only soy, almond or rice.
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Le Petit Léon
Tables are highly sought after at this soulful old-world bistro - the affordable arm of Michelin-starred big brother Léon de Lyon around the corner. But forget romancing here: the fascinating collections of old clocks, carafes etc are far too distracting.
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Maison Perroudon
Smoking is no go at this cake shop where a predominantly female and couple crowd lunches on light salads. Its giant white chocolate and almond-coated tuile (sweet ultra-crispy sail-shaped biscuits of giant proportions) are quite divine, darling.
reviewed
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Le Bouchon des Filles
This contemporary ode to Lyon’s legendary culinary mères is run by two filles (daughters), and tablecloths are checked cherry-and-raspberry, rather than classic red-and-white. The atmosphere is especially familial during Sunday lunch.
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Chez Paul
Self-taught Lyonnaise mère, Josiane, takes pride that ‘people come to eat as if at home or at their parents’ house’, and specialises in a creamier-than-usual tablier de sapeur (breaded, fried tripe) at this iconic bouchon.
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Café Cousu
Wedged between fashion designers in Le Village des Createurs, this hole in the wall entices an arty crowd with its battery-charging breakfasts, healthy lunches and homemade tarts and cakes, as well as its buzzing weekend brunch from 11am until 5pm.
reviewed
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Jim-Deli
A newbie on the luncheon scene, this adjoining Italian duo stuns. One half serves authentic panini to take away; the other half carpaccio, pasta, salads and other delicious Italian dishes clearly emblazoned with an Italian Mama stamp of approval.
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Brasserie Léon de Lyon
Renowned Lyonnais chef Jean-Paul Lacombe has turned his Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant into a relaxed brasserie – same 1904 decor, same impeccable service, more affordable prices (the €14.60 plat du jour is an excellent deal).
reviewed
