Things to do in Brittany
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Le Coquillage
Super chef Olivier Roellinger’s latest project is his sumptuous restaurant Le Coquillage and hotel housed in the extremely impressive Château Richeux, 4km to the south of Cancale. Roellinger’s creations have earned him three Michelin stars and you won’t have trouble seeing why if you’re lucky enough to get a table here. The Maritime Adventure menu (€90) takes in many culinary highlights of both Brittany and Normandy, from fresh scallops to the region’s dishes, all beautifully cooked and imaginatively served. Booking well ahead is essential. As well as offering rooms at Château Richeux, Roellinger offers a range of cottages and other deluxe accommodation around Ca…
reviewed
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Le Cosy Restaurant
Pas de crêpes! (No crêpes!) the blackboard menu on the street proclaims. Inside, make your way through the épicerie (specialist grocer) crammed with locally canned sardines, ciders and other Breton produce and up the narrow staircase to the eclectic, artistic dining room, where you can tuck in to specialities like gratins and tartines (open sandwiches) made from market ingredients. It's important to reserve for evening dining, as this place is fearfully popular.
reviewed
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Cathedral St-Corentin
At the centre of the city stands this impressive cathedral, the distinctive kink built into its soaring light-filled interior said by some to symbolise Christ's head inclined on one shoulder as he was dying on the cross. Begun in 1239, the cathedral wasn't completed until the 1850s, with the seamless addition of its dramatic twin spires. Between them, high on the west facade, is an equestrian statue of King Gradlon, the city's mythical 5th-century founder.
reviewed
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Cathédrale St-Vincent
The town’s centrepiece was constructed between the 12th and 18th centuries, but damage during WWII was severe. A mosaic plaque on the floor of the nave marks the spot where Jacques Cartier received the blessing of the bishop of St-Malo before his ‘voyage of discovery’ to Canada in 1535. Cartier’s tomb – all that remains of it post-1944 is his entombed head – is in a chapel on the north side of the choir.
reviewed
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Île du Grand Bé
At low tide, cross the beach to walk out via the Porte des Bés to the rocky islet of Île du Grand Bé, where the great St-Malo-born 18th-century writer Chateaubriand is buried. Once the tide rushes in, the causeway remains impassable for about six hours; check tide times with the tourist office. Depths can be deceptive; if you get caught out, stay on the islet until the tide subsides.
About 100m beyond the Île du Grand Bé is the Vauban-built 17th-centuryFort du Petit Bé, also accessible at low tide.
reviewed
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La Ville d’Ys
La Ville d’Ys is probably the town’s most famous crêperie, named for the fabled Atlantis-style submerged city of Breton legend. Tucked inside a two-storey 15th-century house with a slanted wooden staircase and colourful crockery displayed on the walls, La Ville d’Ys serves up mouth-watering black wheat pancakes with sublime taste combinations.
reviewed
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Musée du Château
Within the Château de St-Malo, built by the dukes of Brittany in the 15th and 16th centuries, is the Musée du Château, also known as the Musée d'Histoire de la Ville (city history museum). The museum's most interesting exhibits – the history of cod fishing on the Grand Banks and photos of St-Malo after WWII – are in the Tour Générale.
reviewed
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Musée Départemental Breton
Recessed behind a magnificent stone courtyard beside the cathedral, this museum is housed in the former bishop's palace. Superb exhibits showcase Breton history, furniture, costumes, crafts and archaeology. Adjoining the museum is the Jardin de l'Évêché.
For even more serenity, pop into the hidden, flower-filled Jardin de la Retraite, secluded behind high walls.
Following the switchback path just east of the tourist office up the 72m-high Mont Frugy rewards with captivating city views.
reviewed
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Le Petit Gaveau
This charming find is a sleek conversion of an old stone-walled house that plays host to simple yet excellent food (the gourmet burger is superb), and is a world away from the fussy gastronomy and crêpes you'll find elsewhere in town. There's live jazz Thursday to Saturday (€3 supplement per diner). It's worth reserving in the evenings.
reviewed
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L'Ambroisie
Quimper's most celebrated gastronomic restaurant is sumptuously decorated with contemporary art and elegant china on snow-white tablecloths. Regional produce provided by chef Gilbert Guyon's friends is used in the creation of house specials like sole with new potatoes and caramelised onions. Cooking classes are available by request.
reviewed
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Crêperie la Krampouzerie
In an atmospheric space with blue-and-white-tiled wooden tables, crêpes and galettes are made from organic flours and regional ingredients like algues d'Ouessant (seaweed from the Île d'Ouessant), Roscoff onions and homemade ginger caramel. Tables fill the square outside in fine weather, giving it a street-party atmosphere.
reviewed
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Mémorial 39–45
Constructed in the mid-18th century, Fort de la Cité was used as a German base during WWII. One of the bunkers now houses the Mémorial 39–45, which depicts St-Malo's violent WWII history and liberation, and includes a 45-minute film in French. Some guided visits are conducted in English; call ahead to confirm times.
reviewed
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Maison du Patrimoine
Between 15 June and 15 September, the walled town can also be accessed through this old house, which has exhibits on the town's history – ask for an English-language brochure. Once you're within the walls, rue Vauban and place St-Guénolé outside are enchanting for their old stone houses converted into shops, restaurants and galleries.
reviewed
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Grand Aquarium
Allow around two hours to see St-Malo's excellent aquarium. About 4km south of the city centre, it's a great wet-weather alternative for kids, with a minisubmarine descent and a bassin tactile (touch pool), where you can fondle rays, turbot – even a baby shark. Bus C1 from the train station passes by every half-hour.
reviewed
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Crêperie au Pressoir
Opening hours fluctuate, so we recommend checking ahead, but this artisan crêperie in a traditional long Breton house is a rare opportunity to dine right in the middle of a 70-strong cromlech (circle of menhirs). From Carnac-Ville, take rue St-Cornély northwest and turn right on rue du Ménec and follow it north for about 1km.
reviewed
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Crêperie du Sucré-Salé
For a quarter of a century, locals have crowded into this crêperie decorated with lace curtains, wooden dressers and painted plates on the walls. Breton specialities include saucisse fumée (smoked sausage) and the house speciality forestière, made with mushrooms, smoked lard (fatty bacon) and cheese.
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Le Chalut
This unremarkable-looking establishment is in fact St-Malo's most celebrated restaurant and a must for any self-respecting seafood lover. The kitchen overflows with the best the Breton coastline has to offer – buttered turbot, line-caught sea bass and scallops in Champagne sauce. Reservations for dinner are advised.
reviewed
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Vedettes Glenn
In July and August four-hour river trips (adult/child €27/13, sailing 2.15pm Tuesday to Friday and Sunday) sail from Concarneau along the gorgeously scenic estuary of the River Odet. Boat trips also operate to the Îles de Glénan – a cluster of nine little islands about 20km south of Concarneau – starting at €26/13.
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Restaurant Delaunay
This superb yet unassuming-looking restaurant is where Chef Didier Delaunay creates standout gastronomic cuisine within aubergine-painted walls. The menu features succulent dishes both from the surf (Breton lobster is a speciality) and turf (tender lamb). The restaurant is fully wheelchair accessible.
reviewed
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Crêperie Margaux
Watch the owner of this wonderful little crêperie on violet-filled Marché aux Légumes making traditional crêpes by hand (her motto: 'if you're in a hurry, don't come here'). The aromas wafting through the timber-lined dining room, and the scads of happy diners, prove it's well worth the wait.
reviewed
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La Bouche en Folie
Hidden away from the tourist trail, this sleek joint oozes Gallic gorgeousness from every nook and cranny. The menu gives a modern spin to French staples – lamb is fricasséed with garlic and artichokes, while monkfish is partnered by peas, black olives and asparagus. Sumptuous.
reviewed
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Le Venezia
This cosy, Italian-inspired restaurant just off the main waterfront drag brims with diners and no wonder - its pastas, fish and salads are all bellissimo. There are two tiny steps out the front, but otherwise excellent wheelchair access includes an internal ramp.
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L'Alchimiste
Ben Harper–type music creates a mellow backdrop at this magical place filled with old books and a toy flying fox. Take a seat at the bar draped with a red tasselled theatre curtain, on the carved timber mezzanine (including a pulpit), or in the wood-heated basement.
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La Porte au Vin
Highly recommended, this place in the centre of the walled city is a lovely spot in fine weather, with a pretty patio terrace shaded by a red awning. It's consistently strong on traditional cooking (which in Concarneau means fish), as well as its excellent crêpes.
reviewed
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Château de Keriolet
This impressive building is an exquisite example of 19th-century architecture. Its intriguing Russian connections are revealed during a guided tour. The castle is a well-signed five-minute drive from town (turn right just before the large Leclerc supermarket).
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