Things to do in St Malo
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Cathédrale St-Vincent
The town’s centrepiece was constructed between the 12th and 18th centuries, but damage during WWII was severe. A mosaic plaque on the floor of the nave marks the spot where Jacques Cartier received the blessing of the bishop of St-Malo before his ‘voyage of discovery’ to Canada in 1535. Cartier’s tomb – all that remains of it post-1944 is his entombed head – is in a chapel on the north side of the choir.
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Île du Grand Bé
At low tide, cross the beach to walk out via the Porte des Bés to the rocky islet of Île du Grand Bé, where the great St-Malo-born 18th-century writer Chateaubriand is buried. Once the tide rushes in, the causeway remains impassable for about six hours; check tide times with the tourist office. Depths can be deceptive; if you get caught out, stay on the islet until the tide subsides.
About 100m beyond the Île du Grand Bé is the Vauban-built 17th-centuryFort du Petit Bé, also accessible at low tide.
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Musée du Château
Within the Château de St-Malo, built by the dukes of Brittany in the 15th and 16th centuries, is the Musée du Château, also known as the Musée d'Histoire de la Ville (city history museum). The museum's most interesting exhibits – the history of cod fishing on the Grand Banks and photos of St-Malo after WWII – are in the Tour Générale.
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Mémorial 39–45
Constructed in the mid-18th century, Fort de la Cité was used as a German base during WWII. One of the bunkers now houses the Mémorial 39–45, which depicts St-Malo's violent WWII history and liberation, and includes a 45-minute film in French. Some guided visits are conducted in English; call ahead to confirm times.
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Grand Aquarium
Allow around two hours to see St-Malo's excellent aquarium. About 4km south of the city centre, it's a great wet-weather alternative for kids, with a minisubmarine descent and a bassin tactile (touch pool), where you can fondle rays, turbot – even a baby shark. Bus C1 from the train station passes by every half-hour.
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Le Chalut
This unremarkable-looking establishment is in fact St-Malo's most celebrated restaurant and a must for any self-respecting seafood lover. The kitchen overflows with the best the Breton coastline has to offer – buttered turbot, line-caught sea bass and scallops in Champagne sauce. Reservations for dinner are advised.
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Restaurant Delaunay
This superb yet unassuming-looking restaurant is where Chef Didier Delaunay creates standout gastronomic cuisine within aubergine-painted walls. The menu features succulent dishes both from the surf (Breton lobster is a speciality) and turf (tender lamb). The restaurant is fully wheelchair accessible.
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Crêperie Margaux
Watch the owner of this wonderful little crêperie on violet-filled Marché aux Légumes making traditional crêpes by hand (her motto: 'if you're in a hurry, don't come here'). The aromas wafting through the timber-lined dining room, and the scads of happy diners, prove it's well worth the wait.
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La Bouche en Folie
Hidden away from the tourist trail, this sleek joint oozes Gallic gorgeousness from every nook and cranny. The menu gives a modern spin to French staples – lamb is fricasséed with garlic and artichokes, while monkfish is partnered by peas, black olives and asparagus. Sumptuous.
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L'Alchimiste
Ben Harper–type music creates a mellow backdrop at this magical place filled with old books and a toy flying fox. Take a seat at the bar draped with a red tasselled theatre curtain, on the carved timber mezzanine (including a pulpit), or in the wood-heated basement.
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Fort National
The ramparts' northern stretch looks across to the remains of this former prison, built by Vauban in 1689. Standing atop a rocky outcrop, the fort can only be accessed at low tide. Ask at the tourist office for times of tours during your stay.
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Musée International du Long Cours Cap-Hornier
Housed in the 14th-century Tour Solidor, this museum presents the life of the hardy sailors who followed the dangerous Cape Horn route around the southern tip of South America. It also offers superb views from the top of the tower.
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Café Licorne
This popular and relatively good-value place for a sit-down lunch within the walls has a buzzing terrace and a funky feel. Crêpes, omelettes, salads, a decent club sandwich and fresh moules (mussels) dominate the menu.
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Côté Jardin
The charming, friendly Côté Jardin presents regional and traditional French cuisine, with a scenic terrace overlooking the marina and St-Malo's walled city. Doodlers can draw on the table with coloured pencils provided.
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L'Aviso
Regular live music features at this cosy place, which has more than 300 beers on offer (and over 10 – including Breton beer – on tap). If you can't decide, ask the friendly owner/connoisseur.
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La Maison de Corsaire
You can visit this 18th-century mansion and historic monument, once owned by corsair (privateer) François Auguste Magon. Guided tours are in French; descriptions are available in English.
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Le Cunningham
Sail away at this curved wood bar with a wall of timber-framed windows looking out over water. Year-round live entertainment includes jazz, soul and Brazilian beats.
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La Maison du Beurre
Cheeses and butters handmade by Jean-Yves Bordier’s La Maison du Beurre are shipped to famous restaurants all over the world.
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Fort du Petit Bé
About 100m beyond the Île du Grand Bé is the Vauban-built 17th-century Fort du Petit Bé, also accessible at low tide.
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Walled City
St-Malo's first inhabitants originally lived in St-Servan but later moved to this former island, which became linked to the mainland by the sandy isthmus of Le Sillon in the 13th century. For the best views of the walled city, stroll along the top of the ramparts, constructed at the end of the 17th century under the military architect Vauban, and measuring just over a mile. There's free access at several places, including all the main city gates.
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Pain de Campagne
Sandwich shops are in no short supply in St-Malo, but many of them are sub-par and expensive. The cheerful little Pain de Campagne is where locals come for creative sandwich combinations on a variety of breads, and at least a couple of hot meals per day.
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Musée International du Long Cours Cap-Hornier
Musée International du Long Cours Cap-Hornier is in the 14th-century Tour Solidor. Presenting the life of the hardy sailors who followed the Cape Horn route, it offers superb views from the top of the tower.
reviewed
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Musée du Château
The museum's most interesting exhibits - the history of cod fishing on the Grand Banks and photos of St-Malo after WWII - are in the Tour Générale.
reviewed
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Mémorial 39-45
The pretty fishing port of St-Servan sits southwest of the walled city. Constructed in the mid-18th century, Fort de la Cité was used as a German base during WWII. One of the bunkers now houses Mémorial 39-45, which depicts St-Malo's violent WWII history and liberation and includes a 45-minute film in French. Some guided visits are conducted in English; call ahead to confirm times.
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