Things to do in Quimper
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Le Cosy Restaurant
Pas de crêpes! (No crêpes!) the blackboard menu on the street proclaims. Inside, make your way through the épicerie (specialist grocer) crammed with locally canned sardines, ciders and other Breton produce and up the narrow staircase to the eclectic, artistic dining room, where you can tuck in to specialities like gratins and tartines (open sandwiches) made from market ingredients. It's important to reserve for evening dining, as this place is fearfully popular.
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Cathedral St-Corentin
At the centre of the city stands this impressive cathedral, the distinctive kink built into its soaring light-filled interior said by some to symbolise Christ's head inclined on one shoulder as he was dying on the cross. Begun in 1239, the cathedral wasn't completed until the 1850s, with the seamless addition of its dramatic twin spires. Between them, high on the west facade, is an equestrian statue of King Gradlon, the city's mythical 5th-century founder.
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Musée Départemental Breton
Recessed behind a magnificent stone courtyard beside the cathedral, this museum is housed in the former bishop's palace. Superb exhibits showcase Breton history, furniture, costumes, crafts and archaeology. Adjoining the museum is the Jardin de l'Évêché.
For even more serenity, pop into the hidden, flower-filled Jardin de la Retraite, secluded behind high walls.
Following the switchback path just east of the tourist office up the 72m-high Mont Frugy rewards with captivating city views.
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Le Petit Gaveau
This charming find is a sleek conversion of an old stone-walled house that plays host to simple yet excellent food (the gourmet burger is superb), and is a world away from the fussy gastronomy and crêpes you'll find elsewhere in town. There's live jazz Thursday to Saturday (€3 supplement per diner). It's worth reserving in the evenings.
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L'Ambroisie
Quimper's most celebrated gastronomic restaurant is sumptuously decorated with contemporary art and elegant china on snow-white tablecloths. Regional produce provided by chef Gilbert Guyon's friends is used in the creation of house specials like sole with new potatoes and caramelised onions. Cooking classes are available by request.
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Crêperie la Krampouzerie
In an atmospheric space with blue-and-white-tiled wooden tables, crêpes and galettes are made from organic flours and regional ingredients like algues d'Ouessant (seaweed from the Île d'Ouessant), Roscoff onions and homemade ginger caramel. Tables fill the square outside in fine weather, giving it a street-party atmosphere.
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Crêperie du Sucré-Salé
For a quarter of a century, locals have crowded into this crêperie decorated with lace curtains, wooden dressers and painted plates on the walls. Breton specialities include saucisse fumée (smoked sausage) and the house speciality forestière, made with mushrooms, smoked lard (fatty bacon) and cheese.
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Musée des Beaux-Arts
The ground-floor halls are home to some fairly morbid 16th- to 20th-century European paintings, but things lighten up on the upper levels of the town's main art museum. A room dedicated to Quimper-born poet Max Jacob includes sketches by Picasso.
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Torch VTT
Torch VTT rents out mountain bikes for €18 per day. The friendly owner is a fount of information about local cycle routes.
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Keltia Musique
Breton and Celtic music and art are available at Keltia Musique, which carries an excellent range of books and CDs.
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Jardin de la Retraite
Pop into the hidden, flower-filled Jardin de la Retraite, secluded behind high walls.
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Galerie Ste-Catherine
A few doors up from Ty Blurt Records, you can check out traditional and contemporary art on sale here.
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François Le Villec
Several shops in the old town sell Quimper's traditional faience pottery, including this one.
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Ti Cass’ de’Halles
This is one of the best salad and sandwich options, with a clutch of outdoor terrace tables.
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Ty Blurt Records
For a total change of tune, flip through '70s pop, French punk and rock vinyl.
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Ar Bed Keltiek
A great range of books on everything Breton.
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Vedettes de l'Odet
From June to September, Vedettes de l'Odet runs boat trips (adult/child €25/15, 1¼ hours) from Quimper along the serene Odet estuary to Bénodet, departing from quai Neuf.
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