Just south of Arles, Provence's rolling landscapes yield to the flat, marshy wilds of the Camargue, famous for teeming birdlife – roughly 500 species. Allow ample time to birdwatch: grey herons, little egrets, shelducks, avocets, oystercatchers and yellow-legged gulls are among the species to spot.
Stes-Maries de la Mer
This remote seaside outpost has a rough-and-tumble holidaymaker feel, with whitewashed buildings crowding dusty streets. During its Roma pilgrimages, street-cooked pans of paella fuel chaotic crowds of carnivalesque guitarists, dancers and mounted cowboys. Tickets for bullfights and courses Camarguaises are sold at the sea-front village arena.