Hugely popular with local cognoscenti, this eatery is a quintessentially French mixture of the intellectual (the walls are lined with books) and the gastronomic (French, of course) - a coming together of the mind and the stomach, if you will. There's live music (jazz, chansons, Roma - the website has the schedule) from about 20:00 on Friday and Saturday (except in July and August; reservations recommended).