Things to do in Lakeland & The East
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Parppeinvaara Traditional Village
Few places bring Karelian traditions to life as vividly as the Parppeinvaara Traditional Village. The hill is named for Jaakko Parppei (1792–1885), a bard and kantele player, whose songs inspired the Kalevala epic. The folked-up harpsichordlike sounds of the kantele can be heard throughout the village and you can see this unique stringed instrument on display, along with various other Karelian cultural artefacts, in the small museum. The collection of Karelian buildings is a powerful evocation of history with informative guides wearing feresi (traditional Karelian work dress) and answering questions about the displays. The small Orthodox Church at the back of the villag…
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Hiekkalinna
In summer, sand artists from all over Finland gather to build the Hiekkalinna, a giant ‘sandcastle’ that uses around 3 million kilograms of sand. Previous incarnations of these huge art works have included themes such as a Wild West scene incorporating a gigantic steam train, and an outer space theme that brought together ET and Darth Vader. It’s great for kids with a small selection of rides (many free).
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Linnoitus & Museums
The fortifications in the Linnoitus (Fortress) area of Lappeenranta above the harbour were started by the Swedes and finished by the Russians in the 18th century. It's like a separate village; some of the fortress buildings are craft shops and galleries, while others have been turned into interesting museums. There are good views from the fortress over the harbour area.
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Kenkävero
Kenkävero is a design shop and an art centre picturesquely set in a lovely vicarage building 1km east of the centre. The cafe still feels like an elegant drawing room and you half expect the vicar himself to bring in tea and cucumber sandwiches. Instead there’s a much praised lunch buffet that pulls out all the stops.
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Jätkänkämppä Smoke Sauna
There are different types of saunas, but the smoke sauna is the original and, some say, the best. This, the largest in the world (although few other countries have made an attempt on the record), is a memorable and sociable experience that draws both locals and visitors.
The lakeside Jätkänkämppä sauna is at a former loggers' camp near the Rauhalahti Tourist Centre. The 60-person, mixed sauna (record capacity is 103 people) is heated a full 24 hours in advance with a big wood fire, hence the name 'smoke sauna'. Guests are given towels to wear but bring a swimsuit for a dip in the lake. The technique is to sweat it out for a while, cool off in the lake, then repeat the pro…
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Mekaanisen Musiikin Museo
Mekaanisen Musiikin Museo is Varkaus’ stand-out attraction. ‘You must understand’, says the personable owner, ‘it’s not a normal museum; more a madhouse’. A truly astonishing collection of musical instruments ranging from a ghostly keyboard-tinkling Steinway piano to a robotic violinist to a full-scale orchestra emanating from a large cabinet. This is just the beginning; political cabaret in several languages and an overwhelming sense of good humour and imagination make it a cross between a Victorian theatre and Wonka’s chocolate factory. Having a coffee outside under the steely gaze of sizeable macaws seems like a return to normality. The museum is signposted 1km west of…
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Cavalry Museum
The cavalry are honoured as Lappeenranta’s greatest heroes, which may seem odd for a port town. The town’s oldest building (erected in 1772) is the stately former garrison that houses the Cavalry Museum. The museum tells the story of how this band of red-trousered warriors began as the finest mounted forces in the Russian Empire and throughout the 1920s and ’30s became Finland’s national heroes. Exhibits of their trousers and skeleton jackets are a highlight along with their horseback armoury. Even today, dragoons are still garrisoned in Lappeenranta, and when they sweep down from the fort in regular parades throughout summer, you’ll see how powerful this land-based f…
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Rauhalinna Villa
This romantic Moorish-style wooden villa was built in 1900 by Nils Weckman, an officer in the tsar's army, as a wedding-anniversary gift for his wife. It features an intricate wooden lattice trim and has a serene lakeside setting.
These days Rauhalinna warrants a visit for its café and fine restaurant, complete with banquet hall. For a real treat, try the excellent buffet. Rauhalinna also houses a summer hotel. The villa is at Lehtiniemi, 16km by road north of Savonlinna. The best way to visit is by boat from Savonlinna passenger harbour. Alternatively, there are two to three buses (destination Lehtiniemi, 25 minutes) from the Savonlinna bus terminal to within 500m of the…
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Säynätsalo Town Hall
The large Säynätsalo Town Hall is on an island 10km southeast of Jyväskylä. It’s one of Aalto’s most famous works, the architect having won an international competition in 1949 to design it. The sturdy tower, brick steps and dim light of this ‘fortress of democracy’ recall a castle, but the grassy patio reflects a relationship with nature that is present in much of Aalto’s work. Two rooms (r €45) are available here; they are furnished with Aalto chairs and stools and named after the man and his second wife, who often slept here while supervising construction. They are singles (although extra beds can be put in), share a bathroom, and have simple kitchen faci…
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Ruka Fell
There are 28 downhill ski slopes and 18 lifts on Ruka fell. The vertical drop is 201m and the longest run is 1300m - not bad averages at all for Finland, where hills are small and slope gently. Ruka also boasts cross-country trails totalling 250km. There are special areas for snowboarders.
The ski season runs from early November to mid-May, depending on snowfalls. During holiday periods such as Christmas, February and Easter, it seems that almost the entire population of Finland can be seen on Ruka's slopes.
Rates are slightly lower in the shoulder seasons. Alpine skis, including poles and boots, are available for rent and ski lessons are available in all disciplines.
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Lake Cruises
During summer there are daily departures for several different types of lake cruises. Standard two-hour cruises from the harbour depart hourly from 11:00 to 18:00. Special theme cruises include dinner and dancing, wine tasting or a trip to a local berry farm. There are also canal cruises and a monastery cruise to Valamo.
There are cruises to Rauhalahti tourist centre Tuesday to Saturday in summer (and Sunday in July); the best one is the smoke-sauna cruise on Tuesday and Thursday at 17:45 and 20:30.
Tickets for all cruises are available at the passenger harbour. Schedules are available at the harbour or from the tourist office.
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Rauhalahti
Rauhalahti is an estate converted into a year-round family park. The whole area is full of activities for families including boating, cycling, tennis and minigolf in summer, and skating, ice-fishing, snowmobile safaris and a snow castle in winter. You can rent bikes (per day from €10), rowing boats, canoes, in-line skates and even Icelandic ponies for gentle trail rides. Take bus 7 from the town centre or a ferry from the passenger harbour in summer (adult/child return €12/6, 30 minutes, five daily Monday to Saturday from early June to early August). There’s also a variety of accommodation here.
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Petäjävesi Church
Thirty-five kilometres west of Jyväskylä, pause at Petäjävesi to see the wonderfully gnarled Unesco-listed wooden church. Finished in 1765, it’s a marvellous example of 18th-century rustic Finnish architecture with crooked wooden pews and a fairytale shingle roof. Prior to its construction, there had been some debate about whether this village should get a church at all. Jaakko Leppänen started the job minus planning permission and properly drawn instructions. Burials took place under the floorboards, and there’s also a spooky wine cellar under the nave – ask the guide to show you.
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Huvila
This noble wooden building was formerly a fever hospital then a mental asylum, but these days writes happier stories as an excellent microbrewery and smart restaurant just across the harbour from the town centre. The food focuses on fresh local ingredients, and one of the delicious beers will match your fare perfectly, whether it be fresh, hoppy Joutsen, traditional sweet sahti, or the deliciously rich dessert stout. The terrace is a wonderful place on a sunny afternoon; there are also two cosy, compact double attic rooms (€120 during opera festival, €65 at other times).
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Rapids Shows
These days, the water is allowed to flow free only for the 20-minute Rapids Shows from May to September. There's a nightly show at 01:00 from early May to early July. Check the tourist office's information website for other shows between May and September (it's on, for example, at 22:00 every Saturday in August, and 21:00 every Saturday in September). There's an accompanying sound-and-light show.
It's undeniably spectacular and definitely worth seeing if you're in town that day, but not quite memorable enough to structure your trip around.
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Bomba Village
Nurmes’ biggest draw is Bomba Village, 2.5km southeast of the town centre. The imposing Bomba House, with its high roof and ornate wooden trim, is a replica of a typical Karelian family house, and was built in 1855 by Jegor Bombin, a farmer from Suojärvi (now in Russian Karelia). It now houses the Bomban Talo restaurant and eating there is the only way to see inside. The surrounding re-creation of a Karelian village makes for a pleasant browse among craft studios, especially when the summer market is on.
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Lappee Church
Lappee Church is an adorable wooden church built in 1794 to an unusual ‘double cruciform’ floor plan. It’s barely on speaking terms with its bell tower, which is situated across the park and houses a cafe. South of the church stretches the graveyard, with an evocative war memorial, which features cubist and modernist sculptures commemorating Finns who died in the Winter and Continuation Wars. The most striking depicts a mother mourning her soldier son lost in battle, by Kauko Räsänen.
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Vuoksen Kalastuspuisto
Vuoksen Kalastuspuisto is a stocked salmon pond on Varpasaari in Mansikkala. As well as the guaranteed catch of pike or salmon from the ponds, you can also purchase licences (per day/week €6/10) for the surrounding waters as fish suitable for smoking can be caught in the river here. They also rent bikes (per day €12), row boats and kayaks (per day 30), plus there’s a good traditional sauna (per group €115). Accommodation is comfy camping for fisherfolk with basic tent sites and good-sized cabins.
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Jätkänkämppä Smoke Sauna
Jätkänkämppä Smoke Sauna is by the lakeside near Rauhalahti resort south of town. The 60-person, mixed sauna is heated 24 hours in advance with a large wood fire (ie there’s no sauna stove). Guests are given towels to wear, but bring a swimsuit for a dip in the lake. Sweat it out for a while, cool off in the lake, then repeat the process several times – devoted sauna-goers do so even when the lake is covered with ice. Then buy a beer and relax, looking over the lake in Nordic peace.
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Kuopion Korttelimuseo
This block of old town houses forms another of Kuopio’s delightful museums. Several homes – all with period furniture and decor – are very detailed and thorough and the level of information (in English) is excellent. Apteekkimuseo in building 11 contains old pharmacy paraphernalia, while in another building it’s fascinating to compare photos of Kuopio from different decades. There’s also a cafe serving delicious rahkapiirakka (a local sweet pastry).
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Ruunaan Koskikierros
Around the river system, and over two beautiful suspension bridges, runs Ruunaan Koskikierros, a marked 29km loop along good pitkospuu paths. If you have more time, there are another 20km of side trips you can take. If you start at the Naarajoki bridge, you will have to walk 5km along the Bear's Trail to reach the Ruunaan koskikierros trail. Another 3.3km brings you to the Neitikoski, where you'll find commercial services. Neitikoski also has road access and a parking area.
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Rauhalahti Tourist Centre
Rauhalahti Tourist Centre has grown around Rauhalahti Manor (Kartano Rauhalahti), an area converted into a year-round family park. The whole Rauhalahti area is full of amusements and activities for children and families including boating, cycling, tennis and minigolf in summer, skating, ice-fishing, snowmobile safaris, snowshoeing and a snow castle in winter. Take bus 7 from the town centre. There are also lake ferries from the passenger harbour in the town centre in summer.
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Musta Lammas
One of Finland’s best restaurants, the ‘black sheep’ has a golden fleece. Set in an enchantingly romantic brick-vaulted space, it offers delicious gourmet mains with Finnish ingredients and French flair. Roast reindeer with morel mushrooms was one of the highlights when we last visited, but the €32 vegetarian menu also caught our eye. The standard wine list is OK, but get the credit card out for some of the handwritten choices, which include some of the world’s finest reds.
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Kuopion Museo
The town museum in a castlelike art-nouveau mansion has wide scope. The top two floors are devoted to cultural history, with household objects, a boat builder’s workshop, coffee shop and a recreated wooden house among the attractions. But the real highlight is the natural history display, with a wide variety of beautifully presented Finnish wildlife, including a mammoth and an ostrich wearing snowboots. The ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.
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Pedersöre Church
Beautiful Pedersöre Church dates back to the 1400s, making it one of the oldest churches in Pohjanmaa. The oldest bell is marked 1488AD though the bell tower itself was replaced in the 18th century. King Gustav III of Sweden personally signed off on the plans to expand the church into the cruciform, though builders ignored his instruction to demolish the towering spire, which was later destroyed by fire, then restored in its dazzling original form.
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