Sights in Lakeland & The East
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Parppeinvaara Traditional Village
Few places bring Karelian traditions to life as vividly as the Parppeinvaara Traditional Village. The hill is named for Jaakko Parppei (1792–1885), a bard and kantele player, whose songs inspired the Kalevala epic. The folked-up harpsichordlike sounds of the kantele can be heard throughout the village and you can see this unique stringed instrument on display, along with various other Karelian cultural artefacts, in the small museum. The collection of Karelian buildings is a powerful evocation of history with informative guides wearing feresi (traditional Karelian work dress) and answering questions about the displays. The small Orthodox Church at the back of the villag…
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Hiekkalinna
In summer, sand artists from all over Finland gather to build the Hiekkalinna, a giant ‘sandcastle’ that uses around 3 million kilograms of sand. Previous incarnations of these huge art works have included themes such as a Wild West scene incorporating a gigantic steam train, and an outer space theme that brought together ET and Darth Vader. It’s great for kids with a small selection of rides (many free).
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Linnoitus & Museums
The fortifications in the Linnoitus (Fortress) area of Lappeenranta above the harbour were started by the Swedes and finished by the Russians in the 18th century. It's like a separate village; some of the fortress buildings are craft shops and galleries, while others have been turned into interesting museums. There are good views from the fortress over the harbour area.
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Jätkänkämppä Smoke Sauna
There are different types of saunas, but the smoke sauna is the original and, some say, the best. This, the largest in the world (although few other countries have made an attempt on the record), is a memorable and sociable experience that draws both locals and visitors.
The lakeside Jätkänkämppä sauna is at a former loggers' camp near the Rauhalahti Tourist Centre. The 60-person, mixed sauna (record capacity is 103 people) is heated a full 24 hours in advance with a big wood fire, hence the name 'smoke sauna'. Guests are given towels to wear but bring a swimsuit for a dip in the lake. The technique is to sweat it out for a while, cool off in the lake, then repeat the pro…
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Mekaanisen Musiikin Museo
Mekaanisen Musiikin Museo is Varkaus’ stand-out attraction. ‘You must understand’, says the personable owner, ‘it’s not a normal museum; more a madhouse’. A truly astonishing collection of musical instruments ranging from a ghostly keyboard-tinkling Steinway piano to a robotic violinist to a full-scale orchestra emanating from a large cabinet. This is just the beginning; political cabaret in several languages and an overwhelming sense of good humour and imagination make it a cross between a Victorian theatre and Wonka’s chocolate factory. Having a coffee outside under the steely gaze of sizeable macaws seems like a return to normality. The museum is signposted 1km west of…
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Cavalry Museum
The cavalry are honoured as Lappeenranta’s greatest heroes, which may seem odd for a port town. The town’s oldest building (erected in 1772) is the stately former garrison that houses the Cavalry Museum. The museum tells the story of how this band of red-trousered warriors began as the finest mounted forces in the Russian Empire and throughout the 1920s and ’30s became Finland’s national heroes. Exhibits of their trousers and skeleton jackets are a highlight along with their horseback armoury. Even today, dragoons are still garrisoned in Lappeenranta, and when they sweep down from the fort in regular parades throughout summer, you’ll see how powerful this land-based f…
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Rauhalinna Villa
This romantic Moorish-style wooden villa was built in 1900 by Nils Weckman, an officer in the tsar's army, as a wedding-anniversary gift for his wife. It features an intricate wooden lattice trim and has a serene lakeside setting.
These days Rauhalinna warrants a visit for its café and fine restaurant, complete with banquet hall. For a real treat, try the excellent buffet. Rauhalinna also houses a summer hotel. The villa is at Lehtiniemi, 16km by road north of Savonlinna. The best way to visit is by boat from Savonlinna passenger harbour. Alternatively, there are two to three buses (destination Lehtiniemi, 25 minutes) from the Savonlinna bus terminal to within 500m of the…
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Säynätsalo Town Hall
The large Säynätsalo Town Hall is on an island 10km southeast of Jyväskylä. It’s one of Aalto’s most famous works, the architect having won an international competition in 1949 to design it. The sturdy tower, brick steps and dim light of this ‘fortress of democracy’ recall a castle, but the grassy patio reflects a relationship with nature that is present in much of Aalto’s work. Two rooms (r €45) are available here; they are furnished with Aalto chairs and stools and named after the man and his second wife, who often slept here while supervising construction. They are singles (although extra beds can be put in), share a bathroom, and have simple kitchen faci…
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Petäjävesi Church
Thirty-five kilometres west of Jyväskylä, pause at Petäjävesi to see the wonderfully gnarled Unesco-listed wooden church. Finished in 1765, it’s a marvellous example of 18th-century rustic Finnish architecture with crooked wooden pews and a fairytale shingle roof. Prior to its construction, there had been some debate about whether this village should get a church at all. Jaakko Leppänen started the job minus planning permission and properly drawn instructions. Burials took place under the floorboards, and there’s also a spooky wine cellar under the nave – ask the guide to show you.
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Rapids Shows
These days, the water is allowed to flow free only for the 20-minute Rapids Shows from May to September. There's a nightly show at 01:00 from early May to early July. Check the tourist office's information website for other shows between May and September (it's on, for example, at 22:00 every Saturday in August, and 21:00 every Saturday in September). There's an accompanying sound-and-light show.
It's undeniably spectacular and definitely worth seeing if you're in town that day, but not quite memorable enough to structure your trip around.
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Bomba Village
Nurmes’ biggest draw is Bomba Village, 2.5km southeast of the town centre. The imposing Bomba House, with its high roof and ornate wooden trim, is a replica of a typical Karelian family house, and was built in 1855 by Jegor Bombin, a farmer from Suojärvi (now in Russian Karelia). It now houses the Bomban Talo restaurant and eating there is the only way to see inside. The surrounding re-creation of a Karelian village makes for a pleasant browse among craft studios, especially when the summer market is on.
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Lappee Church
Lappee Church is an adorable wooden church built in 1794 to an unusual ‘double cruciform’ floor plan. It’s barely on speaking terms with its bell tower, which is situated across the park and houses a cafe. South of the church stretches the graveyard, with an evocative war memorial, which features cubist and modernist sculptures commemorating Finns who died in the Winter and Continuation Wars. The most striking depicts a mother mourning her soldier son lost in battle, by Kauko Räsänen.
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Kuopion Korttelimuseo
This block of old town houses forms another of Kuopio’s delightful museums. Several homes – all with period furniture and decor – are very detailed and thorough and the level of information (in English) is excellent. Apteekkimuseo in building 11 contains old pharmacy paraphernalia, while in another building it’s fascinating to compare photos of Kuopio from different decades. There’s also a cafe serving delicious rahkapiirakka (a local sweet pastry).
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Rauhalahti Tourist Centre
Rauhalahti Tourist Centre has grown around Rauhalahti Manor (Kartano Rauhalahti), an area converted into a year-round family park. The whole Rauhalahti area is full of amusements and activities for children and families including boating, cycling, tennis and minigolf in summer, skating, ice-fishing, snowmobile safaris, snowshoeing and a snow castle in winter. Take bus 7 from the town centre. There are also lake ferries from the passenger harbour in the town centre in summer.
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Kuopion Museo
The town museum in a castlelike art-nouveau mansion has wide scope. The top two floors are devoted to cultural history, with household objects, a boat builder’s workshop, coffee shop and a recreated wooden house among the attractions. But the real highlight is the natural history display, with a wide variety of beautifully presented Finnish wildlife, including a mammoth and an ostrich wearing snowboots. The ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.
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Pedersöre Church
Beautiful Pedersöre Church dates back to the 1400s, making it one of the oldest churches in Pohjanmaa. The oldest bell is marked 1488AD though the bell tower itself was replaced in the 18th century. King Gustav III of Sweden personally signed off on the plans to expand the church into the cruciform, though builders ignored his instruction to demolish the towering spire, which was later destroyed by fire, then restored in its dazzling original form.
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South Karelian Museum
South Karelian Museum examines Karelia’s prehistory with Celticlike artefacts – look out for the reconstruction of an elk hunted on ski (literally). There’s a long look back at when Vyborg was part of Karelia with photos and oral histories from before 1939. It’s a source of much wistful nostalgia for most Finns and some older Finns have been known to be moved to tears by how effectively this exhibit brings the town back to life.
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Puijo Hill & Tower
In a country with few hills, Puijo Hill is the pride of Kuopio - the spectacular panoramic lake and forest views from the 75m Puijo Tower are said to represent 'the national ideal of Finnish scenery'. There's a revolving restaurant on the 12th floor, a café on the 13th and an open-air viewing deck at the very top.
Unfortunately there are no public buses to Puijo, but it's a nice walk through the trees, or a short drive or cab ride.
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Suomen Ortodoksinen Kirkkomuseo
A fascinating, well-presented display, the Orthodox Church Museum holds collections brought here from monasteries, churches and tsasounas in occupied Karelia. Today it’s the most notable collection of eastern Orthodox icons, textiles and religious objects outside Russia. The oldest artefacts date from the 10th century. There are summer exhibitions on particular aspects of Orthodox art or symbolism.
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Chicory Museum
The Chicory Museum is housed in the old chicory factory, founded in 1883 and recognisable for its large oven pipe that was used to bake the herb. The factory was built by local entrepreneur Wilhelm Schauman who made his fortune processing chicory, a popular coffee additive or substitute. As well as talking you through chicory processing, guides can chat about the contemporary art exhibited here.
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South Karelia Art Museum
South Karelia Art Museum has a permanent collection of paintings by Karelian and other Finnish artists. Most of the works are modern and a large part of the space is devoted to temporary exhibitions, which often feature local artists. Unless one of the temporary exhibits takes your fancy, you can probably skip this in favour of better studies of Finnish art in Helsinki.
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Pedersöre Church
The beautiful Pedersöre Church, on the way into town from the south, was originally built in the 1400s, but the bell tower dates from the 1760s. During the reign of King Gustav III the church was greatly enlarged to become a cross-shaped structure. Thankfully, the architect thumbed his nose at the king's plan to demolish the 85m spire. It's well worth the walk out to see it.
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Imatran Taidemuseo
Just south of the bus and train stations, in the same building as the library, the town art gallery is worthwhile. Most of the space is taken up with good temporary exhibitions, but the permanent collection includes a pensive young violinist by Eero Järnefelt, and a Gallen-Kallela watercolour of the rapids in 1893, which gives an idea of what they were once like.
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Spruce Forests
Surrounding Puijo Hill is one of the best-preserved spruce forests in the region. It's a popular local spot for walks and picnicking. Also here is an all-season ski jump and chairlift. Even in summer you can often see ski jumpers in training.
Unfortunately there are no public buses to Puijo, but it's a nice walk through the trees, or a short drive or cab ride.
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Lutheran Church
When the Swedes took the area they sought to convert the Orthodox population by building the gigantic Lutheran Church in 1796. It’s also known as the Church of a Hundred Angels for its stunning paintings completed in 1832 by Samuel Elmgren, which with their vivid images of faith would have done much to sway illiterate locals to the Western faith.
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