Things to do in Ilomantsi
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Parppeinvaara Traditional Village
Few places bring Karelian traditions to life as vividly as the Parppeinvaara Traditional Village. The hill is named for Jaakko Parppei (1792–1885), a bard and kantele player, whose songs inspired the Kalevala epic. The folked-up harpsichordlike sounds of the kantele can be heard throughout the village and you can see this unique stringed instrument on display, along with various other Karelian cultural artefacts, in the small museum. The collection of Karelian buildings is a powerful evocation of history with informative guides wearing feresi (traditional Karelian work dress) and answering questions about the displays. The small Orthodox Church at the back of the villag…
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Parppeinpirtti
This place in the Parppeinvaara village does the real-deal pitopöytä (Karelian buffet) in a traditional house complete with a kantele soundtrack. Here you can heap your plate high with vatruskoita (salmon-stuffed pastry), swill down the nonalcoholic kotikalja (which tastes like a home-brewed beer) and finish it with a berry soup that’s like ladling jam.
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Lutheran Church
When the Swedes took the area they sought to convert the Orthodox population by building the gigantic Lutheran Church in 1796. It’s also known as the Church of a Hundred Angels for its stunning paintings completed in 1832 by Samuel Elmgren, which with their vivid images of faith would have done much to sway illiterate locals to the Western faith.
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Pyhän Elian Kirkko
Pyhän Elian Kirkko is the large and beautiful wooden Orthodox church, 1km west of the village centre, towards Ilomantsinjärvi. The kalmisto (graveyard) sign near the church will lead you to the old graveyard at the waterfront. It is a peaceful place, where old trees give shade to a few graves.
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Pyhän Elian Kirkko
Pyhän Elian Kirkko is a beautiful wooden Orthodox church with an obvious Russian influence. Follow the kalmisto (graveyard) sign to the waterfront Kokonniemi Cemetery, where trees shade the graves of those lost in the many conflicts the town has endured.
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Viinitorni
If you want to sample a little more than a swig, the former local water tower has become Viinitorni with wines sold here by the glass. The tower has a panoramic viewing deck, which is a great place to sit on a summer afternoon or evening.
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Ilomantsin Leipomo
This little bakery is a local favourite for its top-notch pulla and preferred local breakfast of karjalanpiirrakka topped with scrambled egg. Most of the town grabs an early coffee on their way out here so it’s a social hub on weekdays.
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Orthodox Tsasouna
An Orthodox Tsasouna stands behind the Matelin museoaitta, a tiny museum commemorating female rune singer Mateli Kuivalatar, renowned in the 19th century for her renditions of the Kanteletar epic.
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Peltohermanni Winery
At Peltohermanni Winery, you can also take part in a tasting. It’s cheapest to buy liqueurs (from €10 a bottle) but you’ll need to track down an Alko (liquor shop) if you want stronger stuff.
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Murginapirtti
Up a dirt road away from the town centre, this old-style Finnish farmhouse restaurant does a hearty lunch buffet on weekdays. It’s rustically Karelian right down to the icon in the corner.
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Pub Monttu
A little further along from Hotel Ilomantsi, where the nightclub action is, this is a local bar that gets busy on weekends and also serves food.
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Ravintola Kelopirtti
On the main-road roundabout is a log cabin with a café and an interesting Karelian craft shop.
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