Things to do in Åland
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Ålands Museum & Ålands Konstmuseum
In the centre of town, the Ålands Museum & Ålands Konstmuseum are housed in the same building and should definitely head your list of things to see in Mariehamn. The lively and well-presented museum gives an absorbing insight into the history of the islands from prehistoric to present and includes a Stone-Age replica boat made of sealskin, and a reconstructed traditional pharmacy. The panels don't have English, so take an information leaflet on entry.
The gallery has changing exhibitions as well as a handful of paintings by local artists. Perhaps most interesting among them are the canvases of Joel Pettersson (1892-1937). You really sense the elemental forces at work…
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Kastelholms Slott
One of Åland's premier sights, Kastelholms Slott is a smallish but perfectly formed castle picturesquely set by a little inlet. It has experienced several building phases, the earliest of which was in the 14th century. The most impressive part is the keep, which towers 15m high in parts; the walls are 3m thick; there was no escape for Eric XIV, a Swedish king imprisoned here for a time.
The hall, a later construction, ended up being used as a grain storehouse and has an exhibition of items found by archaeologists. Entry is by regular guided tour; while English tours are rare (14:00 Saturday and Sunday from late June to early August), there are plenty of information…
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Bomarsund
East of Kastelholm are the ruins of the Russian fortress at Bomarsund. After the war of 1809, Russian troops began to build Bomarsund as a defence against the Swedes. Construction took decades, and the mammoth building was operational but not wholly complete by the time the Crimean War (1854) came around. Twenty-five British and French ships bombarded it heavily from the sea; after two days it capitulated and was demolished by the victors. The evocative honeycomb ruins can be seen on both sides of the main road at the eastern end of Sund, by the bridge leading across a beautiful sound to Prästö island.
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Sjöfartsmuseum
Åland marine heritage is explored at the Sjöfartsmuseum, a traditional museum that’s designed to look like a ship’s prow cutting into the land. Preserved boats make up most of the exhibitions, particularly glorious ship’s figureheads such as a rare male carving that once graced the California. It’s a great place to discover your inner pirate with plenty of ships in bottles, sea chests and nautical accoutrements. The central part of the museum is a re-creation of a ship with mast, saloon, galley and cabins.
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Stone Age Village
On the road to Orrdals Klint near Långbergsöda is a Stone Age walking trail starting from a clearly marked car park. It’s more of a stroll than a hike, taking you past two excavated settlements and then to a fully reconstructed Stone Age Village, with sealskin-covered huts. In summer there are plenty of Neolithic skills to try your hand at; there are even people living Stone Age-like lives there. There is no public transport; you’ll have to make your own way from Kvarnbo.
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Sjökvarteret
At the northern end of Österhamn, Sjökvarteret has long been devoted to boat-building and you can see various traditional schooners moored here and possibly even boats like the traditional öka (rowing boat) under construction. The museum, with exhibitions on ship-building, is located in a small boatshed that still has the whiff of timber and sea salt. The quarter also has a good cafe, Café Bönan, and several artisan galleries and shops.
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Museum Ship Pommern
The Museum Ship Pommern is anchored just behind the Sjöfartsmuseum. It’s a beautifully preserved four-masted merchant barque and a symbol of Mariehamn. Built in 1903 in Glasgow, Scotland, the ship once carried tonnes of cargo and a 26-man crew on the trade route between Australia and England. Its record run was a speedy 110 days. An audio guide (available in English; €3.50) brings the creaking timbers back to life.
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Kastelholms Slott
One of Åland’s premier sights, Kastelholms Slott is a breathtaking castle picturesquely set alongside a little inlet. Construction began in the 14th century but several extensions have been made since, most notably by Gustav Wasa before he became king of Sweden. The keep towers are 15m high in parts with walls 3m thick and you can see how this castle would once have ruled over all of Åland.
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Ålands Museum & Ålandskonstmuseum
In the centre of town, the Ålands Museum & ÅlandsKonst Museum are housed in the same large building. Permanent exhibits offer an insight into the complete history of the islands including a replica of a Stone Age boat made of sealskin, a reconstructed traditional pharmacy and a large illustration of Bomarsund in all its glory. The panels don’t have information in English, so take a leaflet on entry.
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Café Bönan
Something of an oasis in a desert of meat and fish, this vegetarian place does healthy salad buffets such as fresh beans with couscous, to be washed down with an organic elderflower drink. Plus it’s sourced from ethical producers so it’s total guilt-free dining. The evenings sometimes feature laid-back DJ sets. It also hosts the occasional Indian Night, with good curry options.
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Tjudö Vingård
Tjudö Vingård distils spirits from cherries, apples and other berries that make an intriguing taste for any visitor. The whole tour runs for just under four hours and is best combined with lunch or dinner after, which includes crayfish or ostrich from the quirky farm. You can also call ahead and organise a tour, which is a particularly good idea for groups.
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Jan Karlsgårdens Friluftsmuseum
Jan Karlsgårdens Friluftsmuseum is a delightful open-air museum. Stroll around examining a variety of traditional Åland buildings, including windmills and a smoke sauna. It's worth purchasing the guidebook from the Vita Björn museum before entering. Central to all is a Midsummer pole; this is a great place to be when it's erected at the Midsummer festival.
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Alandia Escargots
Near Kastelholm is Alandia Escargots, which runs a snail safari. This one-hour tour scampers around the snail farm looking at how the gastropods are carefully raised and fattened until they’re gourmet. You’ll get to taste one of the little critters done in garlic butter, but for the squeamish it’s best washed down by a glass of strong cider.
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Sankt Johannes Kyrka
North of Kastelholm, Sankt Johannes Kyrka is the biggest church in Åland. It is 800 years old and was twice destroyed by fire. The altarpiece is decorated with a dazzling triptych and a stone cross with the text ‘Wenni E’. According to researchers, it was erected in memory of the Hamburg bishop Wenni, who died here while on a crusade in 936.
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Fängelsemuseet Vita Björn
By the entrance to the Jan Karlsgården Museum is Fängelsemuseet Vita Björn, a small prison museum. The building was a jail until 1975 and demonstrates how cells and conditions evolved over the two centuries it was in use. Although it looks like a cottage, the walls and floor are of thick stone, so there was no tunnelling out.
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Restaurang Nautical
Upstairs from the maritime museum, this swanky dining room presides over the western harbour and down into the Pommern. There are maritime references in the decor (ship’s wheel, the odd model ship) while much of the menu is local. Try the seabuckthorn-glazed duck or fish soup that includes local scallop and deep-fried cheeses.
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Outdoor Equipment Hire
In addition to bicycles, Ro-No Rent rents all kinds of fun outdoor equipment. You can rent fishing rods per day/week, canoes per hour/day, boats with four-stroke outboard motor and seating six per two hours/day and beach buggies per two hours/day for. Scooters can be had per two hours/day, including free mileage and a full tank.
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Ro-No Rent
In addition to bicycles, Ro-No Rent rents all kinds of fun outdoor equipment. You can rent fishing rods per day/week, canoes per hour/day, boats with four-stroke outboard motor and seating six per two hours/day and beach buggies per two hours/day for. Scooters can be had per two hours/day, including free mileage and a full tank.
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Sankt Andreas Kyrka
Sankt Andreas Kyrka was built in 1720 making it a relative youngster, but it is Åland’s oldest surviving wooden church which lends it a certain charm. The curious cross is actually a weathervane that was once attached to the steeple. The large altarpiece was painted by Victor Westerholm of the Önningeby colony.
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Umbra
Modern Mediterranean has hit Åland. You can expect first-rate house-made tortellini and an expansive antipasto selection in a rustic setting that runs to bronzed fireplaces. Staff are swift and informed but remarkably down-to-earth for fine dining. Lunch is a choice of two great specials that are filling and tasty.
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Sjalvstyrelsegården
It may seen like a local council building, but Sjalvstyrelsegården is actually the home of the Åland parliament. The free guided tours (available in English) explain the autonomous nature of Åland and the election of the Lantråd, the premier of Åland, and end with a slide show about the area.
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Fängelsemuseet Vita Björn
Fängelsemuseet Vita Björn is a small prison museum. The building was used as a jail until 1975, and there's a demonstration of how cell conditions evolved over the two centuries it was in use. Although it looks like a cottage, the walls and floor are of thick stone, so there was no tunnelling out.
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Sankt Johannes Church
North of Kastelholm, Sankt Johannes Church is the biggest church on Åland. It is 800 years old and is decorated with beautiful paintings. Note the stone cross with the text 'Wenni E'. According to researchers, it was erected in memory of the Hamburg bishop Wenni, who died here when on a crusade in 936.
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Sankta Maria Church
Kvarnbo has the large Sankta Maria Church that dates from the 12th century and is probably the oldest church in Finland. There are some wall paintings and sculptures from the 13th century, as well as a fine baptismal font, but most of the paintings are from the Lutheran era, in the 1500s.
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Sankt Olaf’s Kyrka
Jomala’s Sankt Olaf’s Kyrka dates back to the 12th century, having had several repairs and patch-ups in the meantime. It’s still possible to make out a lion’s jaw with a human head inside in the worn stonework, which was originally worked on by Italian stonemasons.
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