Things to do in Mariehamn
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Ålands Museum & Ålands Konstmuseum
In the centre of town, the Ålands Museum & Ålands Konstmuseum are housed in the same building and should definitely head your list of things to see in Mariehamn. The lively and well-presented museum gives an absorbing insight into the history of the islands from prehistoric to present and includes a Stone-Age replica boat made of sealskin, and a reconstructed traditional pharmacy. The panels don't have English, so take an information leaflet on entry.
The gallery has changing exhibitions as well as a handful of paintings by local artists. Perhaps most interesting among them are the canvases of Joel Pettersson (1892-1937). You really sense the elemental forces at work…
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Sjöfartsmuseum
Åland marine heritage is explored at the Sjöfartsmuseum, a traditional museum that’s designed to look like a ship’s prow cutting into the land. Preserved boats make up most of the exhibitions, particularly glorious ship’s figureheads such as a rare male carving that once graced the California. It’s a great place to discover your inner pirate with plenty of ships in bottles, sea chests and nautical accoutrements. The central part of the museum is a re-creation of a ship with mast, saloon, galley and cabins.
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Sjökvarteret
At the northern end of Österhamn, Sjökvarteret has long been devoted to boat-building and you can see various traditional schooners moored here and possibly even boats like the traditional öka (rowing boat) under construction. The museum, with exhibitions on ship-building, is located in a small boatshed that still has the whiff of timber and sea salt. The quarter also has a good cafe, Café Bönan, and several artisan galleries and shops.
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Museum Ship Pommern
The Museum Ship Pommern is anchored just behind the Sjöfartsmuseum. It’s a beautifully preserved four-masted merchant barque and a symbol of Mariehamn. Built in 1903 in Glasgow, Scotland, the ship once carried tonnes of cargo and a 26-man crew on the trade route between Australia and England. Its record run was a speedy 110 days. An audio guide (available in English; €3.50) brings the creaking timbers back to life.
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Ålands Museum & Ålandskonstmuseum
In the centre of town, the Ålands Museum & ÅlandsKonst Museum are housed in the same large building. Permanent exhibits offer an insight into the complete history of the islands including a replica of a Stone Age boat made of sealskin, a reconstructed traditional pharmacy and a large illustration of Bomarsund in all its glory. The panels don’t have information in English, so take a leaflet on entry.
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Café Bönan
Something of an oasis in a desert of meat and fish, this vegetarian place does healthy salad buffets such as fresh beans with couscous, to be washed down with an organic elderflower drink. Plus it’s sourced from ethical producers so it’s total guilt-free dining. The evenings sometimes feature laid-back DJ sets. It also hosts the occasional Indian Night, with good curry options.
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Restaurang Nautical
Upstairs from the maritime museum, this swanky dining room presides over the western harbour and down into the Pommern. There are maritime references in the decor (ship’s wheel, the odd model ship) while much of the menu is local. Try the seabuckthorn-glazed duck or fish soup that includes local scallop and deep-fried cheeses.
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Outdoor Equipment Hire
In addition to bicycles, Ro-No Rent rents all kinds of fun outdoor equipment. You can rent fishing rods per day/week, canoes per hour/day, boats with four-stroke outboard motor and seating six per two hours/day and beach buggies per two hours/day for. Scooters can be had per two hours/day, including free mileage and a full tank.
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Ro-No Rent
In addition to bicycles, Ro-No Rent rents all kinds of fun outdoor equipment. You can rent fishing rods per day/week, canoes per hour/day, boats with four-stroke outboard motor and seating six per two hours/day and beach buggies per two hours/day for. Scooters can be had per two hours/day, including free mileage and a full tank.
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Umbra
Modern Mediterranean has hit Åland. You can expect first-rate house-made tortellini and an expansive antipasto selection in a rustic setting that runs to bronzed fireplaces. Staff are swift and informed but remarkably down-to-earth for fine dining. Lunch is a choice of two great specials that are filling and tasty.
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Sjalvstyrelsegården
It may seen like a local council building, but Sjalvstyrelsegården is actually the home of the Åland parliament. The free guided tours (available in English) explain the autonomous nature of Åland and the election of the Lantråd, the premier of Åland, and end with a slide show about the area.
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Linden Cruises
In July to early August there are cruises aboard the traditional wooden schooner Linden Cruises. There's a four-hour lunch cruise at noon and a four-hour dinner cruise every day. The lunch one leaves from Sjökvarteret and arrives at Västerhamn; the dinner one vice versa.
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Nautical
Above the maritime museum, this classy spot has great views over the western harbour and the Pommern. The décor is, unsurprisingly, nautical (ahem); the food is classy, with small, elaborate portions of such fare as medallions of venison, as well as fine seafood.
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ÅSS Paviljong
The positioning could not be better for this yachty favourite. The kitchen serves up a great seafood pappardelle or white fish carpaccio, but the lunch buffet is a good sampler for the budget conscious. Oh, and they’ve heard all the jokes about the name so leave them behind.
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Indigo
This slick spot mixes a warm interior of historic raw brickwork and a hip courtyard for summer. The menu is contemporary with some innovative takes on fish, such as grilled swordfish on roast sweet potato, though there’s a bar menu of burgers and desserts for lighter meals.
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Röde Orm Bus Tour
From mid-June to mid-August a novel sightseeing tour is operated by Röde Orm Bus Tour. Leaving from the market square in Mariehamn, a red London double-decker bus does a 45-minute tour to Järsö and back, Monday to Friday, from mid-June to mid-August.
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Sankt Göran's Church
The 1927 copper-roofed Sankt Göran's Church in the town centre is not as interesting as the medieval treasure-trove churches in Åland's villages. The design is Art Nouveau, by Lars Sonck, and the church was donated to the town by a wealthy shipowner.
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Café La Strada
One of Torggatan’s sweeter spots, this little cafe does quality pizza and pasta, often with a fish of the day special that’s good value. You should save room for dessert – they do great Ålandspannkaka and have a good ice cream selection for strolling.
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ÅSS Paviljong
Don't worry about the acronym: this boat-owners' favourite is the oldest restaurant in town, and also one of the most atmospheric. It's in a lovely old wooden building on the water's edge. The speciality is seafood and the set lunch buffet is good value.
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Sankt Göran’s Kyrka
The copper-roofed Sankt Göran’s Kyrka, built in 1927, is one of the few modern churches on the islands. Its art nouveau style was conceived by Lars Sonck, who grew up in Åland. The glittering mosaic altarpiece is a real highlight.
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Eat
Located in the market square, the large terrace is always packed with drinkers and diners, particularly Åland’s parliamentarians. The menu is ideal for light meals – some good salads, sandwiches and a good range of pastries to enjoy with coffee.
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Pub Bastun
This down-to-earth place near the maritime museum has a small terrace and a grassy bank to lie back on with a beer. It has loud live music most weekends in summer; some surprisingly well-known Swedish and Finnish rock groups have played here.
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Järsö recreation area
The Järsö recreational area, 12km south of Mariehamn at the tip of the peninsula, is a good place for short bicycle and walking tours. The area is at its most beautiful in spring and early summer, when wildflowers cover the ground.
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Nikolaj Brasserie
Set in the Galleria shopping arcade on Torggatan, this makes a filling stop for lunch or dinner. There's a tasty daily soup and huge pizzas, vegetarian dishes and more elaborate plates. Eat on the terrace if you can find a table.
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Bio Savoy Cinema
This refurbished cinema, west of the centre, shows films in English with Swedish subtitles. At the time of research the cinema had just changed hands and no website existed, so check with the tourist office for latest screenings.
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