Things to do in Tórshavn
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Føroya Fornminnissavn
The excellent Føroya Fornminnissavn is split between two sites in the Hoyvík suburb, 3km north of centre. The main site at Brekkutún 6 beautifully displays Faroese artefacts from the Viking Age to the 19th-century with helpfully illustrative photos and notes. In the downstairs treasure room, the 15th-century Kirkjubøur pew-ends include a much-photographed carving of the Virgin Mary meeting Elisabeth (mother of John the Baptist).
With their halos entwined, the saintly ladies appear to be snogging!
At a wonderfully peaceful second site (on Kúrdalsvegur) is a superbly preserved 1920s farmstead complete with bell telephone, chuntering grandfather clock, and a full set of …
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Listasavn Føroya
Viðarlundin, a wonderfully wild park where trees and sculptures mingle, leads to the bright and airy Listasavn Føroya. Its excellent collection of Faroese modern and contemporary art includes moving, death-haunted canvasses by the great Sámal Joensen-Mikines, allegorical cartoons by William Heinesen and Tita Vinther's entertainingly woolly Rain.
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Toscana
Frank Sinatra's mellow crooning caresses the Chianti-bottle candle-lamps in this cosy little Italian eatery. Toscana specialises in creative meat dishes with tastebud-tickling sauces and super rich pastas that approach heavenly perfection. Portions are generous: our steak-and-gorgonzola spaghetti contained nearly a whole cow. Bookings advised.
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Nólsoy Island
On Nólsoy Island, carless Nólsoy village isn't especially picturesque but makes a strikingly peaceful contrast to bustling Tórshavn, whose Tinganes peninsula looks especially picturesque as you pass by on the ferry Ritan , 20 minutes, three to five daily). The village celebrates a big Ovastevnu festival in mid-August.
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Tinganes
The city's tiny but charming historical core is Tinganes, a little peninsula delightfully jumbled with pretty turf-roofed cottages and historic red-painted stone-and-timber buildings. Most date from after the devastating 1673 fire. Guides can explain the history of each structure but random strolling is enough for most visitors.
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Skansin Fort
Beyond the desert of asphalt that surrounds the modern transport terminal lie the turf-softened bastions of the ruined Skansin Fort. It's topped by a little lighthouse and four 18th-century cannons. Although rather underwhelming, a five-minute visit is justified by the patchily attractive views.
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Café Natúr
The city's most atmospheric café pub is the hub of Tórshavn's raucous live scene at weekends. They serve a good range of brews and several great-value bar meals. The recommended if misnamed 'Tortilla' is actually a filling burrito-and-salad plate.
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Gallari Jinx
Perched behind big picture windows overlooking the main road, this narrow, artfilled diner-café morphs into a hip youth barscene at night. The espressos are good while tsatziki or goats'-cheese and pesto sandwiches offer salvation for vegetarians.
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Storm Petrel Colony
Around an hour's walk from Nólsoy village, a storm petrel colony is claimed to be the world's biggest. They're best observed at dusk. Guided bird tours including basic accommodation are organised through the village hostel-café Kaffistovan.
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Glitnir
Gastronomic treats that are nibbled at zinc-and-cream furniture, and washed down by wine in fish-bowl glasses, make Glitnir the intimidating summit of Tórshavn's modernist chic. Curiously, the pub downstairs is a lacklustre local affair.
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Norðlýsið
Moored in the harbour are two beautiful antique wooden sloops, Westward Ho and Norðlýsið . On summer Tuesdays and Thursdays the Norðlýsið offers fishing trips and three hour cruises.
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Norðurlandahúsið
This modern, architecturally interesting cultural centre has a turf roof and a mini-Stonehenge in the carpark. It frequently houses concerts, plays, exhibitions and conferences. There's a pleasant cafeteria.
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Café Karlsborg
Exposed beams, a whitewashed 'rock' wall and plenty of endearingly kitschy knick-knacks make this Tórshavn's most atmospheric harbourside café. Sadly the cappuccinos are half-hearted.
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Merlot
The highly esteemed chef flambées steaks in cognac and poaches salmon in Riesling. The somewhat staid décor comes much more to life in the evening candlelight.
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Havnarkirkja
The church Havnarkirkja has a distinctive clock tower that peeps above a photogenic row of colourful row of old wharf buildings (Undir Bryggjubakka).
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Náttúrugripasavn
The child-friendly Náttúrugripasavn has an informative geological section, a minuscule botanical garden and a gigantic whale's skull.
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Marco Polo
A notionally nautical theme puts the atmosphere slightly beyond that of a typical pub, but the real attraction is a superb-value lunch buffet.
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Andreas í Vágsbotni
Several shops sell souvenirs from knitwear to cuddly puffin toys. Andreas í Vágsbotni also stocks T-shirts and costumed dolls.
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Sjónleikarhúsið
This community centre offers Faroese cultural evenings with chain-dancing, storytelling and a few local nibbles.
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Focus Gallery
Intimate private galleries, including Focus, are great places to peruse and potentially purchase Faroese art.
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Miklagarður
For supermarkets, Miklagarður is the best-stocked, though other supermarkets are marginally cheaper.
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Kliché
Creditable food and good harbour views undermined by simpering muzak and a slight lack of atmosphere.
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Cleopatra
This small bar tucked in the eaves above Marco Polo restaurant holds Wednesday-night jazz jams.
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Tórshøll Pub
Drinking in this smoky local dive is a daring social experiment. Occasional Faroese folk music.
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Café Kheops
The idiosyncratic copper-panelled bar just about saves this café pub from dull mediocrity.
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