Matterhorn & Eiger Expedition

Matterhorn & Eiger Expedition information and booking

from
$7460
  • Duration
    8 days
    Days
  • Group size
    2-2
    Persons
  • Difficulty
    Advanced Mountaineering Expedition
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Schedule Details

Summary
  • 8 day trip
  • 7 days mountaineering/rock climbing
  • 4 nights hotels
  • 3 nights huts / refuges
Equipment Required
Whilst we strongly recommend you bringing your own climbing equipment and clothing, there is a considerable range of gear available for hire in Chamonix. This may suit you better if you are travelling on elsewhere and want to keep your baggage to a minimum. Personal clothing and equipment is not included in the trip cost. This would include warm layers and waterproof clothing, and clothing for both hot and cold conditions. You will need to take or hire climbing equipment including ice axe, crampons, harness with belay device, leather or plastic mountaineering boots & helmet. A sleeping bag is NOT required. Our Pre-departure information document for this trip details all clothing and equipment required for the trip and will be provided on booking your place.

Highlights

  • Climb the twin summits of Matterhorn (4478m) and the Eiger (3970m)
  • Brush up on your alpine skills with a preparation climb on Weissmies (4017m)
  • Time to experience Chamonix, the world capital of mountaineering

Tour description provided by World Expeditions

One of the world's most renowned and historical mountains, the Matterhorn is a near perfect pyramid and stands at an altitude of 4478m above sea level. In this challenging expedition we combine a preparation climb on Weissmies (4017m), the infamous Hornli route on the Matterhorn, and the South Ridge of the Eiger (3970m). Beginning in Chamonix, the first three days of the trip are spent training and brushing up on skills with our guide - practising alpine skills and technique on the traverse of Weissmies before tackling the technical routes on the Matterhorn and Eiger. This climbing program is designed for experienced climbers and mountaineers, with a guide to climber ratio of 1:2. The altitude and length of the climbs are very demanding and an exceptional level of fitness is required.

What's included

  • 7 breakfasts, 6 lunches and 7 dinners
  • Certified uiagm high altitude mountain guide on days 1-7
  • All group climbing gear (ropes, carabiners etc)
  • 4 nights hotel on a twin share basis
  • 3 nights accommodation in mountain huts/refuges
  • Transport as mentioned in the itinerary

Itinerary

Day 1 Join Chamonix. To Saas Almagel Hut.
Meet your guide at the Hotel Mercure's front desk in Chamonix at 9:00am. There will be a briefing of the week's program, plus gear check. Then we will drive to the village of Saas Grund in the Saas valley, and walk up to the Saas Almagel hut for overnight. Approx walking time: 3 hours
Day 2 Dri Horlini ridge
The chain of ridges over the next 2 days will provide excellent training for the Matterhorn. Today we will climb the Dri Horlini ridge, just behind the hut. The climb is grade 4 and it will take around 4 hours. Descend into the valley to the village of Saas Almagell. Transfer to Saas Grund, overnight hotel.
Day 3 Weissmies traverse. Transfer to Tasch.
Early morning departure to reach the Zwischbergenpass (3268m) where we will start climbing the ridge. The climb will alternate between rock climbing and snow section, and is grade 4 maximum with superb aerial passages. From the summit, the view on all the giant peaks of the Valais is magnificent: Mount Rose, Weisshorn, Dom de Mischabel mountain. Descend by the normal route on the glacier, and then take the lift down to Saas Grund. Drive to Tasch, overnight hotel. Approx walking/climbing time: 10 hours
Day 4 Hornli Hut (3260m)
Today we transfer by train from Tasch to Zermatt. Upon arrival we will take the Schwarzee cable car and climb up to the Hornlihutte (3260m). Today is an easy day before attempting the summit of the Matterhorn. We will spend the afternoon resting and looking at the ridge above the hut. Approx walking/climbing time & altitude: 3 hours; +680m
Day 5 Matterhorn (4478m)
A very early morning start (approx. 3.30am), for a gentle start to the climb. We encounter couloirs, sharp turns, slabs and small rocky walls to reach the Solvay hut. We pass through a few rocky passages and then gain the snow and ice. Fixed ropes facilitate this part of the climb which, at altitude, becomes quite difficult (grade 3 & 4 rock climbing). With crampons on we will arrive at the summit via a snowy crest happy to have achieved such a historical peak. Today is a 10-12 hour day, and care must be taken on the descent which is via the same route to the valley. Overnight hotel and dinner and in Tasch. Approx walking/climbing time & altitude: 10-12 hours; +1218m / -1800m
Day 6 Monch Hut (3630m)
Transfer to Grindelwald through the Goppenstein tunnel, and train up to the Jungfraujoch (3450m). Walk approx 30 minutes to the Monch Hut (3630m).
Day 7 Eiger (3970m)
We will set out early to the base of the Eiger by following the ridgeline with some rocky sections and snow. Then we will commence climbing the south-west ridge (difficulty - grade 3 & 4 rock climbing). As we near the summit, the ridge will become sharper and completely covered in snow. The Eiger summit offers a stunning panoramic view of the Alps. Descend via the same route, with a short abseil of 20 metres, to reach the ridge which will be flatter. Train down to Grindelwald, and drive back to Chamonix. In the event of bad weather or unsafe ridge conditions, we will choose another climb such as at Jungfrau or the north ridge of the Gross Fiescherhorn. Approx walking/climbing time & altitude: 10-12 hours; +500m / -500m
Day 8 In Chamonix, trip concludes
After breakfast, our services conclude.