Traditional French restaurants in Europe
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A
Chez Toinette
In the heart of one of the capital’s most touristy neighbourhoods, Chez Toinette has kept alive the tradition of old Montmartre with its simplicity and culinary expertise. Perdreau (partridge), biche (doe), chevreuil (roebuck) and the famous filet de canard à la sauge et au miel (fillet of duck with sage and honey) are house specialities.
reviewed
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Les Vieilles Luges
Like a scene from a snow globe in winter, this childhood dream of a 250-year-old farmhouse can only be reached by slipping on skis or taking a scenic 20-minute hike from Maison Neuve chairlift. Under low wood beams, Julie and Claude spoil you with their home cooking – dishes such as grand-mère's beef bourguignon and creamy farçon (prepared with potatoes, prunes and bacon), all washed down with vin chaud (mulled wine) warmed over a wood fire. Magic.
reviewed
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L'AOC
‘Bistrot carnivore’ is the strapline of this tasty little number concocted around France’s most respected culinary products. The concept is AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), meaning everything has been reared or made according to strict guidelines designed to protect a product unique to a particular village, town or area. The result? Only the best! Rare is the chance to taste porc noir de Bigorre, a type of black piggie bred in the Pyrénées.
reviewed
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C
La Capitainerie
Enviably nestled beneath the vaulted stone ceiling of the château kitchens, La Capitainerie captures history's grandeur and romance. Fare is traditional and includes crème Chantilly at every opportunity. Its weekend formule buffet à volonté (help-yourself buffet deal; €24) allows unlimited starters and a plat du jour or the latter plus unlimited desserts. The lot costs €31.
reviewed
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Chalet la Pricaz
On its fairy-tale perch above Lake Annecy, this is prime romantic sunset material. Only locally sourced organic ingredients feature on the menu. Tangy tartiflettes (Reblochon cheese with potatoes, crème fraîche, onions and diced bacon) and farm-fresh charcuterie go brilliantly with the first-rate selection of Savoyard wines. The tucked-away restaurant is off the D42, 13km south of Annecy.
reviewed
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D
Les Antiquaires
The cuisine is as traditional, reliable and mature as both the clientele and the splendid line of vintage bottles displayed above the fireplace. Portions, such as the two huge dollops of chocolate mousse for dessert, are mightily generous.
reviewed
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Auberge de Dame Carcas
This casual restaurant specialises in suckling pig (spot the model porkers all around) and carries a fine selection of well-priced local wines (including a delightfully smooth house red at €11). The ground floor is cosy and agreeably rustic, and you can see the chefs at work. The larger upstairs room offers more light, and there's a summer terrace too.
reviewed
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F
Au Jardin Gourmand
Elegant without being overly formal, this intimate restaurant – with a summer terrace – uses only the freshest ingredients for its classic French and champenois dishes; among the latter are no fewer than 11 varieties of andouillette. About 20 vintages from the estimable wine list are available by the glass.
reviewed
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La Serrurerie
Showcasing local art, sculpture and a fantastic collection of retro toys, this mosaic-and-steel bistro-bar is Poitiers' communal lounge-dining room. A chalked blackboard menu lists specialities like tournedos (thick slices) of salmon, pastas and a crème brûlée you'll be dreaming about until your next visit.
reviewed
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Le Temps des Cérises
‘The Time of Cherries’ (ie ‘days of wine and roses’ to English speakers), an easygoing restaurant run by a workers’ cooperative for three decades, offers faithfully solid fare in a quintessentially Parisian atmosphere. From place d’Italie head south along rue Bobillot then right onto rue de la Butte aux Cailles.
reviewed
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L'Étage
Cheese, glorious cheese... Fromage is given pride of place in spot-on fondues and raclette (a combination of melting cheese, boiled potatoes, charcuterie and baby gherkins) at L'Étage, where a backdrop of mellow music and cheerful staff keep the ambience relaxed.
reviewed
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Bouillon Racine
This ‘soup kitchen’ built in 1906 to feed city workers is an art nouveau palace. Age-old recipes such as roast snails, caille confite (preserved quail) and lamb shank with liquorice inspire the menu. End your foray into gastronomic history with an old-fashioned sherbet.
reviewed
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Restaurant le Magret
The only place in town worthy of recommendation, a rustic restaurant dotted with sepia-tinted photos of Lourdes. It's strong on regional cuisine – particularly pork, trout, duck and cheese from the Vallée d'Ossau – but the ambience might be a little dingy for some.
reviewed
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K
Les Nymphéas
Its formal table settings arrayed under 16th-century beams, this fine restaurant serves cuisine based on fresh local ingredients (including cider and calvados), giving a rich Norman twist to dishes such as farm-raised wild duck, scallops and lobster.
reviewed
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Aux Bons Enfants
This familial little place doesn’t have a phone, and there are no plans to get one any time soon: it’s always full. The lucky ones who get a table (get there early or late) can feast on regional dishes made from ingredients picked up at the adjacent market.
reviewed
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Le Vertugadin
Old-style and elegant, this ode to regional cuisine – think meat, game and terrines accompanied by sweet onion chutney – fills a white-shuttered town house. A warming fire roars in the hearth in winter, and summer welcomes diners to its walled garden.
reviewed
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La Mignardise
Traditional French cuisine, fresh and seasonal, is elegantly served beneath ancient wooden beams, 19th-century mouldings and ultramodern halogen lamps. The chef is a particular fan of fish, with plenty of mains from the briny deep.
reviewed
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La Cloche à Fromage
Au revoir diet…loosen a belt notch or three for Strasbourg's gooiest fondues and raclette at this temple to fromage, saving an inch for the 200-variety cheese board of Guinness Book of World Records fame.
reviewed
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Le Pommier
Specialities at this smart restaurant include fillet of roast duck, filet mignon de porc and a varied selection of imaginative French dishes made with fresh Norman products, including rare heirloom vegetables.
reviewed
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L'Estamient
Built into the market walls, this family-run place has a convivial atmosphere and draws plenty of regulars with its tasty and filling lunch menus comprising all the French bistro standards. Book ahead at lunchtime.
reviewed
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La Petite Auberge
This absolute gem of a place is possibly Le Havre's most charming dining option. Its low-beamed dining room whispers of romance, even if you're dining alone. Seafood dominates the inventive yet traditional menu.
reviewed
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Aux Table Rondes
Those with a tiger in them craving a solid lump of meat should come to this carnivore-friendly institution. As well as steaks, it's also renowned for its cochon du lait (pig cooked in milk).
reviewed
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La Diligence
Dine beneath attractive vaults and arches at this former cloth warehouse. Savour the creative cuisine, impressive wine cellar and elegant rear patio overlooked by a gallery of the Hôtel de Varennes.
reviewed
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Restaurant à Table
An excellent option for traditional French cuisine – including four fish and four meat mains – at reasonable prices. Specialities include home-smoked salmon and some scrumptious desserts.
reviewed
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Au Trou Normand
The Norman Hole remains the bargain-basement cafétéria of the trendy 11e arrondissement. In keeping with its surrounds, dishes served are simple and of hearty proportion.
reviewed
