Russian restaurants in Europe
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Restoran Zhurnalist
Framed cameras, old ticking clocks, newspaper-clad ceilings and a hollowed-out double-bass 'bookshelf' all add to the special atmosphere of the reliably great-value Restoran Zhurnalist. Even the waiting area is disguised as a 1920s tobacconist newsstand. Lunch deals for around Rbl110 include five salads and a perfectly filling 'small portion' main course. Try the Radega wine, a fascinating red with strong strawberry notes from Abkhazia, one of the world's least-known (self-declared) countries.
reviewed
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B
Red Square, 1
Appropriately for a place located in the State History Museum, the chefs are real historians, successfully re-creating the cuisine that was enjoyed in the days of yore, complete with old-fashioned ingredients and recipes. For real culinary history buffs, check out the schedule of historic dinners, re-creating specific meals in history, such as Nicholas II’s Easter dinner in 1900. The only drawback is the dark basement setting, a drab venue for an otherwise exciting eating experience.
reviewed
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C
La Gaieté Cosaque
This bistro-like restaurant with the oxymoronic name (Cossack Cheerfulness indeed!) is the place for zakouski (Russian hors d’oeuvres), typically drunk with ice-cold vodka. Among the stand-outs are salades de choux blancs aux baies roses (a coleslaw-like salad with bay leaves), the various herring dishes and aubergine ‘caviar’. Hearty mains include chachlyik (lamb kebab; €19) and koulbiaka (pie filled with fish, rice, veg and boiled eggs; €20.50).
reviewed
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D
Red Bar
On the 27th floor of a skyscraper overlooking the Moscow River, Red features funky decor and a fabulous view. The name refers to its colour, not its politics: the whole place is draped in swanky red, except the glistening white piano. The menu is mostly small plates - overpriced, but tasty. The real draw is the floor-to-ceiling windows and their vantage point of the city skyline. Come for a sundown drink before heading out to paint the rest of the town red.
reviewed
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E
Backstage
The Mariinsky’s official restaurant is tucked away rather out of sight on one corner of Teatralnaya pl. The décor is stage-worthy, and the food is excellent. Service sometimes comes with a sniff, but that somehow befits an institution so celebrated as the Mariinsky. Apparently, famous opera singers and ballet dancers are welcome to write all over the walls. Probably best to refrain unless you count yourself among the stars.
reviewed
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F
Kalinka Malinka
Nostalgia meets Russian MTV at this trendy new Soviet theme café that celebrates the diverse cuisine of all the former Soviet Republics minus the knick-knackery that plagues other retro eateries. Enjoy a Eurasian feast of Ukrainian serniki (cottage cheese fritters), Georgian khachapuri and Kazakh beshparmak (horse meat and noodles) washed down with Moldovan wines or Russian beer. Enter from ul Dzerzhinskogo.
reviewed
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Khutorok Lya Mer
Overlooking the sea at Massandra Beach, this restaurant is designed to look like the interior of a ship, but the theme isn’t overdone and there’s only a small fish section on the menu. The cuisine is Ukrainian meets Russian meets Crimean Tatar meets European, with dishes like varenyky, veal stroganoff, and pork fillet shashlyk with Provençale herbs. The seaside back terrace is a lovely spot.
reviewed
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Novy Yar
The 90-year-old restaurant was once a favourite among Moscow's elite, including the opera singer Fyodor Shaliapin and the merchant Savva Morozov. These days, an evening at Yar means dining on gourmet fare and taking in a glittering cabaret, complete with showgirls. Even if you don't stay for dinner, stop by this historic spot for peak at the gold-gilded, chandelier-strewn dining room. Inside the Sovietsky Hotel.
reviewed
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I
Sadko
Serving all the Russian favourites, this impressive restaurant’s décor applies traditional floral designs to a slick contemporary style. It has a great children’s room and is ideal as a pre– or post–Mariinsky Theatre dining option. They make their own piroggis (pies) and cranberry mors. The waiters, many of them music students at the local conservatory, give impromptu vocal performances.
reviewed
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J
La Cantine Russe
Established for the overwhelmingly Russian students at the prestigious Conservatoire Rachmaninov in 1923, this ‘canteen’ is still going strong more than eight decades later. At communal tables you can savour herrings served with blinis, aubergine ‘caviar’, chicken Kiev, beef Stroganov, chachliks (marinated lamb kebabs) and, to complete the tableau, vatrouchka (cream cheese cake).
reviewed
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K
Old Countryside
This tiny, family-run hideaway is well off the beaten track, but its intimate atmosphere and delectable food are one-of-a-kind. Try old Russian recipes such as beef in plum and nut sauce or ham in oranges. The small size of the restaurant guarantees personal service, but reservations are a must. From the metro station, take any tram down ul Savushkina and get off at the third stop.
reviewed
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Restaurant Rus
This restaurant, located atop the walls of the kremlin, is a throwback to medieval times. The cool stone interior is decorated with battle gear and the views of the Velikaya are taken through the crossbow slits in the walls. Dishes are unspectacular but fresh: marinated mushrooms and potatoes; crab and tomato salad; and salmon with tomatoes and mushrooms. English menu.
reviewed
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M
Kafehe Kymyz
In the park near the Yulaev horseman statue, this café has outdoor seating - a perfect place in summer to sample some classic Bashkir snacks. Try vak-belyash (a delicious pastry filled with ground beef and potato) or lulya kebab(minced-meat sausage cooked on an open flame and served in a pita). Wash down with some kumiss (fermented mares' milk).
reviewed
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N
Zu Den 3 Buchteln
Bohemian and Russian cuisine is Zu den 3 Buchteln's speciality. The thick, juicy goulash is excellent, but for something more unusual try the blood sausage with red cabbage and roast potatoes or the Russian blinis (buckwheat pancakes with egg, cream, red onions and trout caviar). Czech beer flows freely all night and the list of desserts is extensive.
reviewed
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O
Mechta Molokhovets
Inspired by the cookbook of Yelena Molokhovets, the Russian Mrs Beeton of the 19th century, the menu at this compact, elegant restaurant covers the classics from borsch to beef Stroganov. Their speciality is koulibiaca, a golden pastry pie of either fish or rabbit and cabbage – pre-order or be prepared to wait an hour as they cook it fresh.
reviewed
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Karelskaya Gornitsa
Karelskaya Gornitsa has rustic-village atmosphere, efficient costumed waiters and excellent Karelian cuisine including a superbly creamy lokhikeytto (archetypal Karelian salmon soup, R230). Without a reservation you just might get a seat in the appealing if cramped bar area. Notice the frog-croak soundtrack in the toilets.
reviewed
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Q
Stolovaya No 17
This wonderful canteen is a relic of Soviet days when 30m queues waited patiently for a cheap meal. Now there’s a kitchen full of babushkas serving a range of tasty options presented at a pick-and-choose counter. Plastic tablecloths cover metal tables decorated with plastic flowers, and you get to eat with aluminium cutlery.
reviewed
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R
Georgian Kitchen
This is a classic Georgian place, complete with kitschy artwork and Christmas lights. But the shashlyk, kharcho (rice with beef or lamb soup) and khachapuri (cheese bread) are spicy and delicious. And the keyboardist-crooner belting out the ballads never fails to inspire some dancing (or perhaps that's the Georgian wine).
reviewed
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S
Izbushka
A popular little Russian eatery with two themed rooms: a ‘taiga’ room and a ‘dacha’. Traditionally dressed staff clank their high heels on the wood floors under a soundtrack of lightly played hip-hop. The food is hearty and good (a bread-covered bowl of shchi – cabbage, potato and beef – is R115).
reviewed
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Korchma
Home-cooked traditional Russian food in a one-room cottage restaurant. It’s set amid other more-genuine Siberian log homes which have so far survived development pressures. Meals are presented on two-tone ceramics while an accordionist accompanies a costumed folk singer (R50 to R100 cover). There’s a 10% service charge.
reviewed
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Teremok
This cosy little restaurant in the style of an old Russian cottage specialises in scrumptious bliny, little round pancakes beloved of Russians and indeed most people who have ever tried them. You can enjoy them with mushrooms, meat, cream, jam, cheese, fruit or many other options. Other Russian and Ukrainian dishes are served too.
reviewed
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Sobranie
On the grounds of Music & Time, this traditional Russian restaurant is decorated with stained glass, artwork and antiques that look as though they might be part of the collection. The quaint place caters to hungry tourists in search of traditional Russian cuisine. Much of the cooking is done in the old-fashioned stone oven.
reviewed
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Kitezh
Kitezh is named after a legendary town that, as a defence mechanism, could magically disappear from the sight of an enemy at the sound of a bell. This welcoming eatery re-creates a 17th-century interior in the basement of a building near the Upper St Peter Monastery. The Russian standards are tasty and reasonably priced.
reviewed
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Fat Frier
Now with branches around the city, this beer hall on the back streets of the Historic Heart provides a fun hideaway for some comfort food and a Baltika beer. The nostalgic communist paraphernalia recalls the days of Leonid Brezhnev, but thankfully the staff do not – there are smiles all round and good service.
reviewed
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Kasylysa
A brace of bold, themed restaurants grace the corner of vul Havanna and vul Lanzheronivska. This is the Russian rendition. If you’re one of those who thinks you haven’t travelled until you’ve eaten something bizarre, their ‘warm salad of cut bull’s testicles’ is for you.
reviewed