Modern French restaurants in Europe
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Parkheuvel
Some say it's the Netherlands' best restaurant - as one of only two Dutch fancies with three Michelin stars, it's got a strong claim. The French/international menu is especially fab with seafood - red mullet with balsamic dressing, anyone?
reviewed
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B
La Crèmerie du Glacier
In 1926 Georges Ravanel started selling drinks to hikers from a little wooden hut at the foot of the Argentière's glacier. In the 1950s his son added home-made tarts and croûtes aux fromages (chunky slices of toasted bread topped with melted cheese) to the repertoire, and by the 1980s when the next son took charge of the business La Crèmerie - at a heady height of 1300m in Argentière - was known far and wide for its cheesy croûtes (around €5 to around €1050), fondue and other Savoyard staples. It still is today. Ski to it with the red Pierre à Ric piste in Les Grands Montets.
reviewed
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C
Guillaume
Some of the starters at this sophisticated venue near place de la République make an ideal light lunch – try the tomato Tatin and the samoussa d’escargots (samosa with snails) – and there’s a two-course formule (set menu) for €15.50. You can eat either in the front bar or in the spacious dinning room behind. There’s a lovely art gallery on the 1st floor and, if you’re a group (something unusual in Paris), there’s a huge round table available for seating at least a dozen people.
reviewed
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D
Les Cocottes
Cocottesare casseroles and that is precisely what Christian Constant’s chic space is about. Day in day out, its contemporary interior is jam-packed with a buoyant crowd feasting on inventive seasonal creations cooked to perfection in little black enamel, oven-to-table cocottes (casserole dishes). Seating is on bar stools around high tables and the place doesn’t take reservations. Get here at noon sharp or 7.15pm (or before) to get a table. If the queue’s out the door, nip two doors down for a drink at Café Constant.
reviewed
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E
Café Constant
Take a former Michelin-starred chef, a dead-simple corner café and what do you get? Another Christian Constant hit with original mosaic floor, worn wooden tables and a massive queue out the door every meal time. The café doesn’t take reservations but you can enjoy a drink at the bar while you wait. Cuisine is creative bistro, mixing grandma favourites like purée de mon enfance (mashed potato from my childhood) with Sunday treats such as foie gras-stuffed quail and herb-roasted chicken.
reviewed
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Le Boudoir
Spread across two floors, the quirky salons here – Marie Antoinette, Palme d’Or and the Red Room – are individual works of art with a style befitting the name. The menu runs from upscale bistro to more adventurous creations such as grilled tandoori scallops and saffron rice with mango. In a move towards yesteryear decadence, a private smoking room is hidden on the premises. The prix fixe lunch is an excellent deal.
reviewed
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G
Luc Salsedo
The cuisine of Salsedo, a young chef who’s built a fine reputation, is local and seasonal. His menu (which, unusually, caters well for vegetarians) changes every 10 days to reflect the mood of the market stalls. The food is delightful and served without pomp on plates, rustic boards or authentic cast-iron pots. The wine list is another hit, with an all-French cast from white to red and rosé.
reviewed
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H
58 Tour Eiffel
If you’re intrigued by the idea of a meal in the Tower, this is a pretty good choice. It may not be the caviar and black truffles of Jules Verne (on the 2nd level), but Alain Ducasse did sign off on the menu, making it far more than just another tourist cafeteria. For lunch, go first to the restaurant’s outside kiosk (near the north pillar); for dinner, reserve online or by telephone.
reviewed
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Hôtel du Nord
The setting for the eponymous 1938 film starring Louis Jouvet and Arletty, the interior of this vintage café feels as if it was stuck in a time warp with its zinc counter, red velvet curtains and old piano. Food is definitely modernist though. From the metro station walk five minutes east along rue de Lancry until you hit the water and quai de Jemmapes (the other side of the bridge).
reviewed
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I
Le Marché sur la Table
You could just pop in for a glass of wine at this friendly spot, run by up-and-coming young chef Éric Vidal (see his impressive culinary credentials on the toilet wall, no less) and his partner, Caroline. But you'd be missing a lot. Éric buys fresh and organic from the nearby food market, his fish is never farmed and Caroline maintains a large selection of local wines. Eat in the attractively furnished interior or quiet, green rear courtyard.
reviewed
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Le Café de la Aquarium
The Aquarium's café serves refined regional cuisine using whatever's in season locally (including a surprising amount of seafood!). There are great harbour views from the dining room and, if that weren't enough, you can also watch giant sharks cruising about – a selling point we're pretty sure nowhere else in La Rochelle can match! The café is open to nonaquarium visitors as well, but sadly you can't leave the aquarium for lunch and re-enter on the same ticket.
reviewed
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K
Chantecler
In a sumptuous Regency dining room, the Negresco's Michelin-starred restaurant, run by locally trained Jean-Denis Rieubland, is no ordinary restaurant. Make sure you're in a grand mood if you're going to splash out: the menu features treats such as sea bass in an almond crust with artichoke mousse or double-roasted veal cutlets served with a potato and black-pudding millefeuille.
reviewed
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L
Le Bistrot de l'Écrivain
Splashed in shades of red, with wine bottles lining the walls, Le Bistrot de l'Écrivain is a relaxed and easygoing place with food that's anything but relaxing and easy to make. There's all the Nantaise standards here, but most have an unexpected twist to them – raspberries in crème brûlée and duck dipped in wonderful sauces being just two examples.
reviewed
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M
Les Ombres
This sexy, glass-enclosed rooftop restaurant atop the Musée de Quai Branly is named The Shadows after the patterns cast by the Eiffel Tower’s webbed ironwork. Dramatic views are complemented by Sébastien Tasset’s elegant creations. We love his roasted turbot and cantal cheese with a buckwheat crêpe, or chicken stuffed with lemon confit.
reviewed
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N
Look
This one's especially recommended for single people, Buffy and Francophiles. Look is a cosy little restaurant that specialises in garlic-based dishes: steamed garlic, fried garlic, garlic soup, garlic vegetables… even garlic dessert, on occasion. It's delicious and you can even be a spoilsport and plump for nongarlic dishes.
reviewed
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O
Brasserie des Arts
Wedged in a line-up of eating/drinking terraces jockeying for attention on St-Tropez’ people-watching square, BA, as it is known, is where the locals go. Out of season ask for a table at the back to experience the real vibe. Unless you’re feeling flush, skip à la carte: the fixed three-course menu is gourmet and excellent value.
reviewed
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P
L'Office
Don’t be misled by The Office’s name. All part of its underground charm, this is more a place for creative types than white-collar workers. Its market-inspired menu is short – just two choices at lunchtime but often outstanding (seafood ragout with red rice and blood oranges, gnocchi with braised lamb and smoked ricotta).
reviewed
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Q
Le Mesclun
The menu here titillates tastebuds: wild turbot baked in champagne with summer truffles and mushrooms; langoustine roasted in coriander-flavoured butter and spiced with tomato, courgette, olive and mango; or roast duck breast with spiced honey, a pear in red wine and a peach in olive oil. Dining is refined and artful.
reviewed
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Le Méditerranée
On top of the portside Sofitel hotel, adjoining the rooftop pool, it's hard to say which makes more of an impression - this contemporary French restaurant's culinary prowess or its 360-degree views across the Med to the red Massif de l'Estérel mountains. It's worth it, if your pocket allows.
reviewed
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Le Formal
Actually the namesake of its chef, Jean-Luc Le Formal, who's making a name for himself in France's foodie circles, this first-class establishment indeed has impeccably mannered service both at its whitewashed-stone lounge/reception area at street level and in its vaulted-cellar dining rooms.
reviewed
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Spoon Byblos
Take your taste buds on a 'grand tour' of the world with Alain Ducasse, following the numbered columns on the menu horizontally for the chef's hot choice or zigzagging to create the culinary unthinkable. Décor is minimal, forks have four prongs, and the cuisine is beyond reproach.
reviewed
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Le Broc en Bouche
You’ll melt for Flo and Fred’s gourmet bistro, their foie gras, their magret de canard (duck breast) and whatever daily special they’ll come up with. And if you like what you see in the fantastic bric-a-brac decor, you could be going home with it: it’s all for sale.
reviewed
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La Bouche
It's good vibes all around at this French-inspired port of call where tables are squished as tight as lovers and the accent is on imaginative but gimmick-free fare. We loved the truffle ravioli. By the way, it's much bigger than first meets the eye - there's a second room in back.
reviewed
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La Bouche en Folie
Hidden away from the tourist trail, this sleek joint oozes Gallic gorgeousness from every nook and cranny. The menu gives a modern spin to French staples – lamb is fricasséed with garlic and artichokes, while monkfish is partnered by peas, black olives and asparagus. Sumptuous.
reviewed
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La Ciboulette
Such class! Crisp white linen and gold-kissed walls set the scene at this surprisingly affordable Michelin-starred place, where chef Georges Paccard cooks fresh seasonal specialities, such as slow-roasted Anjou pigeon with Midi asparagus. Reservations are essential.
reviewed
