Bet Giyorgis

Resting all on its own, south and west of the northwestern and southeastern groups, is Lalibela's masterpiece, Bet Giyorgis . Standing on the brow of its compound, you'll have little doubt that it's the most mesmerising object in all of Ethiopia.

Representing the apogee of the rock-hewn tradition, it's the most visually perfect of all, a 15m-high three-tiered plinth in the shape of a Greek cross. Due to its exceptional preservation, it also lacks the obtrusive scaffolding seen on the other churches.

Inside, light flows in from the windows and illuminates the ceiling's large crosses - beauty in simplicity. There are also two 800-year-old olive-wood boxes; one (with the opposing corkscrew keys) is rumoured to have been carved by King Lalibela himself.

Be warned that some of the cavities in the walls surrounding the church hold unsettling mummified corpses.