Seven Olives Hotel

Now privately run, this place has dropped its prices despite the improved quality. The large rooms and bathrooms still feel a bit old, but the beds are new and the updated plumbing gushes hot water 24 hours a day. Its leafy terrace is its strongest asset. Rooms 10 to 16 offer the best views.

Note that vacancies are almost nonexistent during the festival period and European Christmas, so reservations up to six months in advance aren't unheard of. However, prices for reserved rooms during these times soar - one hotel's around Br150 room jumps to US$50! If you arrive during a festival without reservations, you'll risk being forced into a dive. Conversely, if there's space, you'll end up paying a fraction of what you would have if you'd made those costly reservations.