Wolleka

Around 6km north of Gonder is the little village of Wolleka, once the home of a thriving population of Falashas or Ethiopian Jews. Before Christianity arrived, Judaism was the dominant religion of most of northwestern Ethiopia.

After the adoption of Christianity as the state religion, Falashas had their land confiscated for refusing to convert. To survive, many became skilled craftsmen. Recent research suggests Falashas may have provided the labour for the castle's construction and decoration.

From 1985 to 1991 many Falashas were airlifted to Israel, and today only a handful remain. Sadly, the pottery for which they were once famous has degenerated into clumsy, half-hearted affairs. However, the Project Ploughshare Women's Crafts Training Center, which helps disadvantaged women learn a craft, is worth supporting.

The old synagogue and Falasha homes can be visited, but a special trip can't be called worthwhile. To get here from Gonder, you can take a taxi (around Br40 return) or a gari (horse-drawn carts; Birr10 return).