Things to do in Aksum
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Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel
Set on a small hill and offering views of the distant jagged mountains of Adwa are the monumental Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel . According to local tradition, they're attributed to the 6th-century King Kaleb and his son, King Gebre Meskel. Kaleb was one of Aksum's most important rulers and succeeded in bringing southern Arabia under Aksumite rule.
Although the twin tombs' architecture resembles the Tomb of the False Door, they actually show more sophistication, using irregular-shaped self-locking stones that don't require iron clamps. The 19th-century British traveller Theodore Bent exclaimed magnanimously that the tombs were 'built with a regularity which if found…
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St Mary of Zion Churches
Opposite the Northern Stelae Field in a walled compound lie the two St Mary of Zion Churches .The rectangular old church is a remarkable example of traditional architecture and was built by the Emperor Fasiladas, the founder of Gonder, in 1665. It's thought that the old podium on which it sits may well belong to Africa's first church, which was erected by King Ezana or King Kaleb in the 4th or 6th century.
Unfortunately, the original church was destroyed during the incursions of Mohammed Gragn the Left-Handed in 1535. Inside there are fine murals, including a painting of the Nine Saints and a collection of ceremonial musical instruments.
A carefully guarded chapel in the c…
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Rome Stele
At 24.6m high, the Rome Stele - or Aksum Obelisk to those in Rome - is the second-largest stele ever produced at Aksum and the largest to have ever been successfully raised. Like the Great Stele, its ornate carvings of multistoried windows and doors adorn all four sides. Pillagers raiding the site are believed to have accidentally caused its collapse sometime between the 10th and 16th centuries.
In 1937 its broken remains were shipped to Italy on Mussolini's personal orders. There it was reassembled and raised once more, this time in Rome's Piazza di Porta Capena. It remained in Rome until 2005, when decades of negotiations finally overcame diplomatic feet-dragging.
After …
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Great Stele
Lying like a broken soldier, this massive 33m Great Stele is believed to be the largest single block of stone that humans have ever attempted to erect, and overshadows even the Egyptian obelisks in its conception and ambition. Scholars theorise that it fell during its erection sometime early in the 4th century.
Comparing the unworked 'root' to the sleek, carved base and the intricate walia ibex carvings near its top gives you a vivid idea of the precision, finesse and technical competence of Aksumite's stone workers.
As it toppled it collided with the massive 360-tonne stone sheltering the central chamber of Nefas Mawcha's tomb. This shattered the upper portion of stele an…
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King Ezana's Stele
The Northern Stelae Field is Ethiopia's biggest and most important stelae field. It contains over 120 stelae, though the original number was higher - some have been removed, others probably lie buried. Although standing slightly off kilter, the magnificent 24m-high King Ezana's Stele at the field's entrance has done something no other stele of similar stature has - remained standing!
Henry Salt, the British traveller and first foreigner to describe it in 1805, proclaimed it 'the most admirable and perfect monument of its kind'.
It's considered by many as the most important of Aksum's stelae because it holds important religious significance. The stone platform at its base i…
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Tomb of the False Door
In 1972 the unique Tomb of the False Door was discovered. Known locally as the Tomb of King Ramhai, it lies in the western extremity of the Northern Stelae Field and is thought to date between the 4th and 6th centuries AD. More complex in structure, its stone blocks are also larger and more finely dressed than those found in some other tombs. Comprising an antechamber and inner chamber, it's surrounded on three sides by a passage.
Above the tomb, at ground level, a rectangular, probably flat-roofed building would once have stood (measuring some 12 sq metres by 2.8m high). Above the stairs descending into the tomb's chamber was a stone slab carved with a false door almost …
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Enda Iyesus
For as long as 5000 years, monoliths have been used in northeast Africa as tombstones and monuments to local rulers. In Aksum, this tradition reached its apogee. Like Egypt's pyramids, Aksum's stelae were like great billboards announcing to the world the authority, power and greatness of the ruling families. Aksum's astonishing stelae are striking for their huge size, their incredible, almost pristine, state of preservation, and their curiously modern look.
Sculpted from single pieces of granite, some look more like Manhattan skyscrapers than 1800-year-old obelisks, complete with little windows, doors and sometimes even door handles and locks! Metal plates, perhaps in the…
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Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum contains some fine and well-preserved Sabaean and early Ge'ez inscriptions, some dating back over 2500 years. There's also an interesting variety of objects found in tombs, ranging from ordinary household objects such as drinking cups, lamps and incense burners, to quite sophisticated glassware including perfume bottles.
There's a particularly nice collection of Aksumite coins dating from the 4th to 6th centuries AD, though those housed in the Ethnological Museum in Addis Ababa are finer. You'll also see beautiful lion gargoyles, and the charming pot shaped like a three-legged bird. Much of the pottery was produced in ancient Aksum and the tradit…
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Queen of Sheba's Bath
Despite the colourful legends, Queen of Sheba's Bath postdates the legendary queen by at least a millennia. This large reservoir was more likely an important source of water rather than a swimming pool or gargantuan bath. Its size is even more impressive considering it was originally hewn out of solid rock, no small feat in the world of ancient engineering. It's also known as Mai Shum, which translates to 'Water of Chief'.
Sadly, the outer portion of the bowl was coated with concrete in 1960s, bestowing it with the feel of a half-hearted attempt at a modern water reservoir, instead of an impressive ancient relic.
Today, despite locals claiming that the waters are cursed (l…
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Gudit Stelae Field
Though less immediately arresting than those found in town, the stelae in the Gudit Stelae Field, are still worth a visit. Named after Queen Gudit, most stelae in this field are small, undressed and lie on the ground. Locals suggest the largest stele marks the Queen of Sheba's grave. Despite excavations in the 1970s and 1990s, little is known about the field.
Though some mark graves, neither rock-hewn nor constructed tombs have been found. Finds here did include a set of fine 3rd-century glass goblets, which has led scholars to suggest the area was the burial site of Aksumite society's lesser nobles. Taking an official guide with you is recommended.
The walk to the complex…
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King Bazen's Tomb
Despite being the crudest of tombs, roughly hewn into solid rock instead of constructed with fine masonry, King Bazen's Tomb has a slightly magical feel about it. Stand in its dark depths and look up its rock-hewn stairs through its arched entranceway and you'll see why. It's even better if explored by candlelight.
According to local tradition, King Bazen is thought to have reigned at Christ's birth. The style of the tomb is likely consistent with that period.
Near the tomb's entrance there's a rectangular pit containing a row of smaller burial chambers (including a few which appear to be unfinished). Judging from the number of tombs and stelae found nearby, the burial sit…
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Lioness of Gobedra
It was here that the Archangel Mikael fought a tremendous battle with a fierce lioness. The fight ended when the saint mustered all his strength and hurled the lion into a massive boulder. The impact had such force that the outline of the beast is still visible today. If it sounds like a story that legends are made of, you're right. It's only a legend! Who's responsible for the work or when it was created is still anyone's guess.
It's often overlooked by visitors, but is worth the visit, especially since it's so close to the ancient quarries of Aksum. It's quite a rough walk from the road over boulders and through scrub, and you'll need a guide or one of the - all too wil…
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Dungur
The structure at Dungur, is similar to Ta'akha Maryam, but much better preserved (though smaller), and fully excavated in places rather clumsily restored. The architectural style with small undressed stones set in a timber framework and walls recessed at intervals and tapering with height are typically Aksumite. The stairwells suggest the existence of at least one upper storey. The well-preserved flagstone floor is thought to have belonged to a throne room.
The palace also contains a private bathing area and a kitchen, where two large brick ovens can still be seen.
Much like Queen of Sheba's Bath, archaeologists date the palace to around the 6th or 7th century AD, some 150…
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Ancient Quarries of Aksum
Near the Lioness of Gobedra, at a site on Gobedra Hill known as Wuchate Golo, are the Ancient Quarries of Aksum, the birthplace of the famous stelae. Mystery still surrounds the tools that were used by the master craftsmen of Aksum, but you can see clearly, in one area, the process by which they cut the hard stone from the rock. After the intended break was mapped out, a row of rectangular sockets were cut.
Wooden wedges were next inserted into the sockets and made to expand either by the use of water, by percussion or by hammering in metal wedges, which caused the rock to fracture. In another place, you'll see a stele almost completely freed from the rock, but strangely …
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King Ezana's Inscription
On the way up to the tombs of Kings Kaleb and Gebre Meskel, you'll pass a little shack containing a remarkable find stumbled upon by a farmer in 1981. Inside is King Ezana's Inscription, an Ethiopian version of the Rosetta stone, a pillar inscribed in Sabaean, Ge'ez and Greek. It dates between AD 330 and AD 350 and records King Ezana's Christian military campaigns in Ethiopia and southern Arabia, as well as his quest to return the Ark to Aksum from Lake Tana.
The inscription apparently contains a curse: 'the person who should dare to move the tablet will meet an untimely death'. Needless to say, the tablet remains exactly where it was found! You should tip the guardian fo…
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Ta'akha Maryam
Early excavations revealed that Ta'akha Maryam was a magnificent palace, probably dating from the 4th or 5th century AD. Unfortunately, much of the stone was removed and what remained was obliterated when the Italians cut a road straight through it. Today, little more than a few piles of rubble and a couple of dressed stone blocks remain, strewn on either side of the road.
Covering a vast area of some 120m by 80m and encircled by huge stone walls, Ta'akha Maryam would have been far larger than medieval European palaces of the time, and contained at least 50 rooms.
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Ezana Park
Within a rather ugly tin-roofed tukul in Ezana Park is another famous 4th-century AD stone of King Ezana. This inscription is also written in Sabaean, Ge'ez and Greek and records the honorary titles and military victories of the king over his 'enemies and rebels'. One section of script thanks the God of War, thus placing the stone's age before Ezana's conversion to Christianity.
It was moved to its present location from eastern Aksum by the Italians in the 1930s because, of all things, it stood in the way of their plan to widen the road.
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Mausoleum
The so-called Mausoleum was discovered in 1974, but not excavated until the mid-1990s. A monumental portal (hewn from a single slab of granite) marked the tomb's entrance and was also carved with the stelae's curious false door motifs. The portal leads into a passageway with 10 chambers. Part of the tomb had been disfigured at some unknown date by robbers, who succeeded in digging through 1.5m of solid masonry! The mausoleum was almost set for its opening to the public during our visit - enjoy!
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Tomb of Nefas Mawcha
The megalithic Tomb of Nefas Mawcha consists of a large rectangular central chamber surrounded on three sides by a passage. The tomb is unusual for its large size, the sophistication of the structure and the size of the stones used for its construction (the stone which roofs the central chamber measures 17.3m by 6.4m and weighs some 360 tonnes!). It's believed the force of the Giant Stele crashing into its roof caused the tomb's spectacular collapse.
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Abba Pentalewon Monastery
Around 2km from the tombs of Kings Kaleb and Gebre Meskel, and thought to date from the 6th century, is the Abba Pentalewon Monastery . Inside are some fine illuminated manuscripts, metal crosses, censers and sistra, which can usually be brought out by the priests. The site of the monastery was sacred to pagans and it's thought the monastery was built here to bolster Christianity and eradicate pagan beliefs.
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Abba Liqanos Monastery
Northeast of the town centre and around 20 minutes by foot from the Abba Pentalewon Monastery, the Abba Liqanos Monastery boasts excellent views and contains some fine religious paraphernalia. Ask to see the so-called crowns of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel.
While it's not a must-see, the walk there is pleasant.
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Abinet Hotel
If you ask locals where the best place to eat is, they'll say Remhai. But if you ask them where they like to eat, they'll say Abinet. The spaghetti and the array of Ethiopian dishes are quite good. Be aware that restaurants tend to wrap things up early in Aksum, with most places being closed or out of food by 20:00.
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Tsega Cafe & Restaurant
This is another favourite of locals, they rave about the tibs - sliced lamb, pan fried in butter, garlic, onion and sometimes tomato. Omelettes and scrambled eggs are on offer as well. Be aware that restaurants tend to wrap things up early in Aksum, with most places being closed or out of food by 20:00.
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Café Abyssinia
Right in front of the hospital, this place serves as café, bar and restaurant. The Ethiopian and faranji fare is quite good, but you'll pay double what locals do. Be aware that restaurants tend to wrap things up early in Aksum, with most places being closed or out of food by 20:00.
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Axumait Handicraft Center
Don't forget to check out the craftsmen at the Axumait Handicraft Center, which houses a large collection of good-quality, but not cheap (by local standards) handicrafts. Ask for the energetic and well-informed Haile, himself a carver for over two decades.
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