Things to do in Eastern Ethiopia
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Alpha Cafeteria & Restaurant
The best place for a cheap stodge, behind the Shell petrol station. Try its Harari soup.
reviewed
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Canal Cafe
Near Harar Gate, this is another treasure-trove for carb-lovers, although the setting is more down-at-heel.
reviewed
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Ali Bal Cafe
Slap bang in the heart of the Old Town, this is a good place to mull over a coffee or sugar-cane juice and watch life go by.
reviewed
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Tourist Hotel
Another bar-cum-club venue, a few doors from the National Hotel. A bit brash, but take a bold approach and you should do all right.
reviewed
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E
Medhane Alem Cathedral
Lying off the main square, the rather unimpressive Medhane Alem Cathedral was originally an Egyptian mosque, but Haile Selassie 'converted it' in the 1940s.
reviewed
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GC Pub
Almost next door to Samsun Hotel, this pub-cum-bar works to the same formula of booze, reggae beats, a touch of sleaziness and tight-packed bodies at weekends. Dive in!
reviewed
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G
Ice Cream Mermaid
A peaceful refuge from the crowded strip nearby, this hole-in-the-wall place concocts some flavoursome ice creams as well as filling cakes. And if you need a vitamin fix, it serves up refreshing fruit juices.
reviewed
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Samsun Hotel
Don't be confused by the name, it's under the right heading here. Identity crisis aside, this publike venue is popular at weekends with an eclectic crowd gulping down glasses of beer. It's just past Harar Gate.
reviewed
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St Mary Catholic Church
Almost opposite Jamia Mosque, St Mary Catholic Church is a haven of peace and a good spot if you need to unwind. It's a Catholic mission dating from the late 19th century. The woodcarved door is particularly attractive.
reviewed
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National Hotel
Hallelujah! Live music Thursday to Sunday from around 21:30 to 02:00 or 03:00. The music is a mixture of Ethiopian/Middle Eastern pop, with some traditional tunes thrown in. When not playing, there's soccer on big-screen TV - much less exotic.
reviewed
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Bar Cottage
Still haven't tried tej (honey wine)? It's time to get a hands-on education in this traditionally decked out, dimly lit den. It's a bit nibbled around the edges but after a few drinks you'll call this place home. It's best at weekends.
reviewed
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Rose Cafe & Restaurant
The closest thing Harar has to a hip café. Chow down on various snacks, including pasta and burgers, or start the day with an omelette or scrambled eggs. It also has bait for the sweet-toothed. The waitresses in pink complete this very rosy picture.
reviewed
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Chat Markets
After all this sightseeing, you might need a stimulant to keep your spirits high. What about chewing a leaf (or two) of chat? Chat markets can be found around most of the city gates, except the Buda Gate, as well as to the south of Feres Magala.
reviewed
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Ras Makonnen's Palace
Don't expect a fairy-tale castle! This 'palace' on the main drag is a sharp-edged, charmless, whitish building but it houses a Handicraft Museum on the 1st floor - nothing flash but it's worth popping your head in. You can also climb to the top floor and soak up the views.
reviewed
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Nure Roasted Harar Coffee
Just thinking about the scents wafting from this place makes us swoon. One step inside, and you're hooked forever. It sells 1kg packets of excellent quality coffee for around Br45 - your best souvenir! You can also have a tour of the roasting and grinding machines in the back.
reviewed
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Mekina Girgir
Leading southeast from Feres Magala, there is a narrow street called Mekina Girgir. Ambling down this atmosphere-laden lane you'll quickly understand why it was given this name: it's jam-packed with tailors' workshops, hence the name, in reference to the sewing machines. If you were thinking of a wedding suit, this is the place!
reviewed
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Hirut Restaurant
A cheery, authentic place to savour Ethiopian dishes as well as pasta and various grills. Sink your teeth into a superfilling kwanta firfir and knock it all down with a bottle of Gouder wine, if you're game. The dining room is cosy but the shady terrace is a sure winner. Service was a tad amateurish the day we popped in.
reviewed
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Jamia Mosque
The Jamia Mosque just south of the central square is Harar's great mosque. It was originally built in the 16th century, though according to local tradition, a mosque has stood on the site since the 12th century, long before the foundation of Harar. These days it has a modernish appearance but remains an appealing sight in its own right.
reviewed
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Gidir Magala
Down from Mekina Girgir you'll stumble upon the arcades of the Gidir Magala, the main market (previously known as the Muslim market); it's definitely worth a stroll. It also serves as the city's meat market - consider yourself warned if you're squeamish. On Mondays, Oromo and some Somali people come in from the surrounding areas (it's most busy from 14:30 to 17:30).
reviewed
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Tomb of Emir Nur
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
The Tomb of Emir Nur, north of central square, is devoted to the ruler who built the city's walls. It resembles a spiky beehive.
reviewed
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Town Gates
There are six gates in total; two were added by the Emperor Menelik in 1889 to the four original ones (which date from the 16th century). An exploration of the old walled town (known locally as Jugal) begins at the main gate. This is known as the Harar Gate or Duke's Gate, after the first Duke of Harar, Ras Makonnen. The nearby Shoa Gate (also known as Asmae Diin Bari in Harari) is particularly well preserved and boasts superb mosaics.
reviewed
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Souvenir Shops
In some of the Adare houses in the Old Town, the ever-enterprising Adares have set up souvenir shops displaying beautifully made baskets, and silver and amber jewellery. The house of Fatuma Safir Ahmed, just north of the main market, is one example. Another is Zeituna Yusuf Grille's shop, just south of the market, which is as good as an antique shop.
Amber necklaces and baskets are on sale, but remember to bring your sharpest bargaining skills! Because these shops are family-run, they may not always be 'open'. Knock on the doors.
reviewed
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Ras Tafari's House
Within pouncing distance of Rimbaud's House is the conspicuous Ras Tafari's House. The building has now been taken over by a local family including a holy man-cum-herbal healer. A sign declares that the sheikh can cure anything from STDs to diabetes, mental illness and cancer! Past patients - apparently testifying to his success - return to look after the holy man, cooking and cleaning for him for the rest of their lives.
The house was built by an Indian trader and many of its features, such as the Hindu figures on the door, are Oriental. Haile Selassie spent his honeymoon here, hence the house bears his pre-coronation name.
reviewed
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Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
Southwest of Gidir Magala is the Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn, a former religious leader of the town. The tomb looks a little like a miniature mosque without the minaret. Local legend has it that below his tomb there lies a well that can sustain the whole city in times of siege. The sheikh who lives here will probably show you some fragile ancient Islamic manuscripts. He expects a tip.
reviewed
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Tomb of Sheikh Abadir
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
The Tomb ofSheikh Abadir is near the southeastern point of the Old Town. The sheikh was one of the most important preachers of Islam in the region and his tomb still attracts worshippers seeking solutions to daily struggles: financial concerns, illnesses, family crises and infertility. If their prayers are answered, many devotees return to make gifts to the shrine: usually rugs or expensive sandalwood. The tomb has become an…
reviewed