Things to do in Harar
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Harari National Cultural Centre
Visiting a traditional Adare house is a must, but you'll probably need a guide to find one. The easiest house to find, not far from the Erer Gate (known locally as Argobari), houses the Harari National Cultural Centre. This typical Adare house contains examples of traditional arts and crafts.
Several Adare houses also double as family-run souvenir shops. If you don't buy anything, it's customary to tip the owner for the tour.
A distinct architectural feature in Harar, the gegar (traditional Adare house) is a rectangular, two-storey structure with a flat roof. The house is carefully constructed to remain cool whatever the outside temperature: clay reinforced with wooden bea…
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Hyena Feeding
Are you ready to sample the thrill of a lifetime? You came to the right place. Possibly Harar's greatest attraction is the hyena men of Harar. As night falls (from around 19:00), the last remaining hyena men (about four) set themselves up just outside the city walls. Sometimes the hyena men risk feeding the animals from their own mouths - you can have a go at this, too, if you like! We didn't… The hyena men know the animals as individuals and call them by the names they have given them.
Though the tradition of feeding spotted hyenas like this has existed for no more that 35 years, the ritual is less of a tourist show than some travellers imagine. The Hararis have long h…
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Markets
No visit to Harar would be complete without wading through the shambolic markets that sprawl outside Harar Gate and Shoa Gate. At first sight this minicity appears to be an impenetrable latticework of tiny streets and alleys; on closer inspection it reveals a careful organisation with different sections. It's a great place to ramble.
You could start with the Smugglers' Market, southeast of Canal Cafe; it's chock-full with goods from Asia. The adjoining Recycling Market is a stunner: witness the workmanship and watch men beating metal into every single useful utensil or spare part. Then elbow your way through the Asma'addin Bari Market (New Market; also known as the Chris…
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Rimbaud's House
Near the middle of the walled city, Rimbaud's House is (yet another) building in which the poet is said to have lived. It was thoughtfully restored with the support of the Italian and French embassies. Although Rimbaud did live in the city, it is not thought to have been here. However, the building houses a new museum dedicated to the poet, with a series of illustrated panels (mainly in French) about his life.
On the 1st floor, don't miss the excellent turn-of-the-20th-century photographs of Harar - a fantastic step back in time. Another room holds changing exhibitions (often old photographs or paintings), and there's a small selection of traditional Adare arts and crafts…
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Town Walls
Harar's old walled town is a fascinating place that begs exploration. The thick, 5m-high walls around town, which stand to this day, were erected in the 16th century by an emir, in response to the migrations northwards of the Oromo. Within the walls the city is a maze of narrow, twisting alleys and lanes, replete with historic buildings, including 82 small mosques, numerous shrines and tombs, as well as traditional Harari houses.
The magnificent Adare (Harari) women, known for their very colourful traditional costumes, add to the appeal. Their dresses - usually black, yellow, red or purple - are worn over velvet trousers. Many also wear orange headscarves. Sometimes they …
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Tomb of Sheikh Abadir
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
The Tomb ofSheikh Abadir is near the southeastern point of the Old Town. The sheikh was one of the most important preachers of Islam in the region and his tomb still attracts worshippers seeking solutions to daily struggles: financial concerns, illnesses, family crises and infertility. If their prayers are answered, many devotees return to make gifts to the shrine: usually rugs or expensive sandalwood. The tomb has become an i…
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Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
Southwest of Gidir Magala is the Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn, a former religious leader of the town. The tomb looks a little like a miniature mosque without the minaret. Local legend has it that below his tomb there lies a well that can sustain the whole city in times of siege. The sheikh who lives here will probably show you some fragile ancient Islamic manuscripts. He expects a tip.
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Ras Tafari's House
Within pouncing distance of Rimbaud's House is the conspicuous Ras Tafari's House. The building has now been taken over by a local family including a holy man-cum-herbal healer. A sign declares that the sheikh can cure anything from STDs to diabetes, mental illness and cancer! Past patients - apparently testifying to his success - return to look after the holy man, cooking and cleaning for him for the rest of their lives.
The house was built by an Indian trader and many of its features, such as the Hindu figures on the door, are Oriental. Haile Selassie spent his honeymoon here, hence the house bears his pre-coronation name.
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Souvenir Shops
In some of the Adare houses in the Old Town, the ever-enterprising Adares have set up souvenir shops displaying beautifully made baskets, and silver and amber jewellery. The house of Fatuma Safir Ahmed, just north of the main market, is one example. Another is Zeituna Yusuf Grille's shop, just south of the market, which is as good as an antique shop.
Amber necklaces and baskets are on sale, but remember to bring your sharpest bargaining skills! Because these shops are family-run, they may not always be 'open'. Knock on the doors.
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Town Gates
There are six gates in total; two were added by the Emperor Menelik in 1889 to the four original ones (which date from the 16th century). An exploration of the old walled town (known locally as Jugal) begins at the main gate. This is known as the Harar Gate or Duke's Gate, after the first Duke of Harar, Ras Makonnen. The nearby Shoa Gate (also known as Asmae Diin Bari in Harari) is particularly well preserved and boasts superb mosaics.
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Tomb of Emir Nur
Shrines devoted to local holy men or religious leaders are even more numerous: over 300 inside and outside the walls - no-one has yet managed to count them. Many are very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places open to both sexes and all religions.
The Tomb of Emir Nur, north of central square, is devoted to the ruler who built the city's walls. It resembles a spiky beehive.
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Gidir Magala
Down from Mekina Girgir you'll stumble upon the arcades of the Gidir Magala, the main market (previously known as the Muslim market); it's definitely worth a stroll. It also serves as the city's meat market - consider yourself warned if you're squeamish. On Mondays, Oromo and some Somali people come in from the surrounding areas (it's most busy from 14:30 to 17:30).
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Jamia Mosque
The Jamia Mosque just south of the central square is Harar's great mosque. It was originally built in the 16th century, though according to local tradition, a mosque has stood on the site since the 12th century, long before the foundation of Harar. These days it has a modernish appearance but remains an appealing sight in its own right.
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Hirut Restaurant
A cheery, authentic place to savour Ethiopian dishes as well as pasta and various grills. Sink your teeth into a superfilling kwanta firfir and knock it all down with a bottle of Gouder wine, if you're game. The dining room is cosy but the shady terrace is a sure winner. Service was a tad amateurish the day we popped in.
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Mekina Girgir
Leading southeast from Feres Magala, there is a narrow street called Mekina Girgir. Ambling down this atmosphere-laden lane you'll quickly understand why it was given this name: it's jam-packed with tailors' workshops, hence the name, in reference to the sewing machines. If you were thinking of a wedding suit, this is the place!
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Nure Roasted Harar Coffee
Just thinking about the scents wafting from this place makes us swoon. One step inside, and you're hooked forever. It sells 1kg packets of excellent quality coffee for around Br45 - your best souvenir! You can also have a tour of the roasting and grinding machines in the back.
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Ras Makonnen's Palace
Don't expect a fairy-tale castle! This 'palace' on the main drag is a sharp-edged, charmless, whitish building but it houses a Handicraft Museum on the 1st floor - nothing flash but it's worth popping your head in. You can also climb to the top floor and soak up the views.
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Chat Markets
After all this sightseeing, you might need a stimulant to keep your spirits high. What about chewing a leaf (or two) of chat? Chat markets can be found around most of the city gates, except the Buda Gate, as well as to the south of Feres Magala.
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Rose Cafe & Restaurant
The closest thing Harar has to a hip café. Chow down on various snacks, including pasta and burgers, or start the day with an omelette or scrambled eggs. It also has bait for the sweet-toothed. The waitresses in pink complete this very rosy picture.
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Bar Cottage
Still haven't tried tej (honey wine)? It's time to get a hands-on education in this traditionally decked out, dimly lit den. It's a bit nibbled around the edges but after a few drinks you'll call this place home. It's best at weekends.
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National Hotel
Hallelujah! Live music Thursday to Sunday from around 21:30 to 02:00 or 03:00. The music is a mixture of Ethiopian/Middle Eastern pop, with some traditional tunes thrown in. When not playing, there's soccer on big-screen TV - much less exotic.
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St Mary Catholic Church
Almost opposite Jamia Mosque, St Mary Catholic Church is a haven of peace and a good spot if you need to unwind. It's a Catholic mission dating from the late 19th century. The woodcarved door is particularly attractive.
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Samsun Hotel
Don't be confused by the name, it's under the right heading here. Identity crisis aside, this publike venue is popular at weekends with an eclectic crowd gulping down glasses of beer. It's just past Harar Gate.
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Ice Cream Mermaid
A peaceful refuge from the crowded strip nearby, this hole-in-the-wall place concocts some flavoursome ice creams as well as filling cakes. And if you need a vitamin fix, it serves up refreshing fruit juices.
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GC Pub
Almost next door to Samsun Hotel, this pub-cum-bar works to the same formula of booze, reggae beats, a touch of sleaziness and tight-packed bodies at weekends. Dive in!
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