Muhu

Introducing Muhu

Muhu, unfortunately, has a reputation for being the Kansas of the archipelago - lots of people passing through, but no-one stopping. In fact, Estonia's third-biggest island has a traditional old village, now functioning as a living museum, where you can get a grasp on the culture and history of this region. There's also a quirky ostrich farm, more Teutonic ruins and some downhome country hospitality that may make you want to stick around a while.

Near the main road about halfway across the island is the 13th to 14th century Liiva Church, with some unusual ship murals. Southwest of there is the Muhu stronghold, which is where the islanders surrendered to the Knights of the Sword in 1227, marking the end of Estonian resistance. The nearby Eemu Tuulik (windmill; 452 8130; adult/concession 5/3Kr; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) has a small exhibit and sells bread baked with its milled flour.

The turn-off to the Ostrich Farm(452 8148; adult/concession 15/10Kr; 10am-6pm) is 200m east of the windmill. The quirky owners will give you an earful about these strange creatures and even let you feed them (mind your fingers). A small shop sells feathers, eggs, purses and shoes made from a certain leather.

Koguva, on the western tip of Muhu, 6km off the road, is an exceptionally well-preserved, old-fashioned island village, now protected as an open-airmuseum(454 8885; adult/concession 25/15Kr; 10am-5pm). One ticket allows you to wander through a number of interesting houses: an old schoolhouse, a museum containing beautiful traditional textiles from the area, including the painstakingly detailed folk costumes once worn by the locals in the area. You can also peer into author Juhan Smuul's ancestral home.

Also on the grounds of the village is the handsome modern art gallery and café Koguva Kunstitallis(11am-5pm).

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009