Things to do in Southeastern Estonia
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Toomemägi (Cathedral Hill)
Rising behind the Town Hall, Toomemägi is a splendidly landscaped park, with walking paths meandering through the trees. This hill is the reason for Tartu's existence, functioning on and off as a stronghold from around the 5th or 6th century. Atop the hill is the imposing Gothic cathedral Toomkirik (dome church) built by German knights in the 13th century.
The cathedral was rebuilt in the 15th century, despoiled during the Reformation in 1525, used as a barn, and partly rebuilt in 1804-07 to house the university library, which is now the Museum of University History. Inside you'll find a reconstructed autopsy chamber and other exhibits chronicling student life.
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Student's Lock-Up
The Student's Lock-Up is fascinating; it's where 19th-century students were held in solitary confinement for various infractions. Back then, if you failed to return library books on time, you'd net two days in the attic; insulting a lady, four days; insulting a (more sensitive?) cloakroom attendant, five days; duelling, up to three weeks. Today one of these rather comfy rooms, with walls covered in original graffiti, is open for viewing.
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St John's Church
North of the university, on the continuation of Ülikooli, stands the magnificent St John's Church. This brick church dates back to at least 1323, and is unique for its rare terracotta sculptures in niches around the main portal. It lay in ruins following the Soviet bombing raid in 1944. Today it is once again open - after 16 years of renovation.
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Toy Museum
Set in one of Tartu's oldest buildings (dating back to the 1770s), the Toy Museum is a big hit with the under-eight crowd. Dolls, model trains, rocking horses, toy soldiers and tons of other toys on display date back 100 years. If all those unobtainable toys have unearthed your inner child, there's a playroom upstairs for more hands-on activity.
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Café Wilde
This richly decorated place serves good coffees, decadent homemade cakes and light sandwiches. Its namesake is Peter Ernst Wilde, who opened a publishing house on the premises in the 18th century, though the pub also pays tribute to two literary Wildes: Oscar Wilde and Eduard Wilde. For heartier dining (and drinking) head to the upstairs pub.
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Võporzova and Tonja
Võporzova and Tonja, a few kilometres north of Värska on the west side of Värska Bay, are classic Setu villages. In Võporzova there's a monument to folk singer Anne Vabarna, who knew 100,000 verses by heart. Võporzova homesteads typically consist of a ring of outer buildings around an inner yard, while Tonja's houses face the lake from which its people get their livelihood.
Traditional Setu holidays are still celebrated. The biggest feast of the year, Lady Day, falls on 28 August (though it is celebrated only in Pechory), close to which the Day of the Setu Kingdom is held. The Day of Setu Lace is 1 March and midsummer celebrations are held on 6 July in accordance wit…
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Pühajärv
The islets and indented shore of 3.5km-long Pühajärv, on the southwest edge of Otepää, provide some of the area's loveliest views. A 12km nature trail and a bike path encircle the lake, making it a lovely spot for a walk. The lake was blessed by the Dalai Lama when he came to Tartu in 1992, and a monument on the eastern shore commemorates his visit.
According to legend, Pühajärv was formed from the tears of the mothers who lost their sons in a battle of the Kalevipoeg epic. Its islands are said to be their burial mounds. Major midsummer St John's Day (Jaanipäev) festivities take place here every year. If energy levels are low after the walk to the lake, recharge at …
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Tartu University
Tartu University was founded in 1632 by the Swedish king, Gustaf II Adolf. Lined with Corinthian columns, the impressive main building dates from 1803. More fascinating is the Student's Lock-Up, where 19th-century students were held in solitary confinement for various infractions. One of these rooms, complete with original graffiti, is open for viewing.
North of the university on the continuation of Ülikooli stands the magnificent St John's Church, dating back to at least 1323. The church is unique for its rare terracotta sculptures in niches around the main portal. It lay in ruins following the Soviet bombing raid in 1944. Today, it is once again open - after a lengthy …
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Toomemägi
Toomemägi, rising behind the Town Hall, is a splendidly landscaped park, with walking paths meandering through the trees. This hill is the original reason for Tartu's existence, functioning on and off as a stronghold from around the 5th or 6th century. The approach from Raekoja plats is along Lossi tänav, which passes beneath the Angel's Bridge (Inglisild), which was built between 1836 and 1838. A bit further up the hill is Devil's Bridge (Kuradisild).
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Setu Farm Museum
The best reason for coming here is the Setu Farm Museum on the south edge of town. Presided over by a wooden carving of Peko, the museum comprises a re-created 19th-century farmhouse complex, with stables, granary and the former workshops for metalworking and ceramics. Don't bypass the charming restaurant here or the excellent gift shop - the region's best - selling handmade mittens, socks, hats, dolls, tapestries, books and recordings of traditional Setu music.
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Liiv Museum
Four kilometres south of Alatskivi, in the hamlet of Rupsi, is the Liiv Museum, a worthwhile stop. It houses exhibitions on both Juhan Liiv, a celebrated writer and poet who died in 1913, and Eduard Tubin, a composer of some of Estonia's best-known songs and symphonies (No 5 is highly regarded). Both were born in the area. Occasional concerts and poetry competitions are held at the museum, which also doubles as the region's tourist office.
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Kallaste
Kallaste (pop 1285), 8km north of Alatskivi, is where a settlement of Old Believers has existed since 1720, when the area was known as Red Mountains (Krasniye Gori) because of the red sandstone cliffs, up to 11m high, that surround this town. Nearly all the villagers are Russian-speaking. There's a large Old Believers' cemetery at the southern end of town, a sandy beach with small caves, and a lakeside café.
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Church
Otepää's pretty little 17th-century church is on a hill top about 100m northeast of the bus station. It was in this church in 1884 that the Estonian Students' Society consecrated its new blue, black and white flag which later became the flag of independent Estonia. Facing the church's west door is a small mound with a monument to those who died in the 1918-20 independence war.
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University Café
This old-world café with beautiful wooden floors and an outdoor patio is one of the gems of Tartu. Palm trees, high ceilings and black-and-white photographs give a colonial charm to the upstairs airy space. Buffet meals are charged by the kilo. Downstairs there's a simpler buffet (decent breakfasts), also with outdoor patio, that makes a good spot for coffee or a quick meal.
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Estonian National Museum
Tartu, as the major repository of Estonia's cultural heritage, has an abundance of first-rate museums. Among them is perhaps the country's best: the Estonian National Museum traces the history, life and traditions of the Estonian people. Don't miss the regional displays of folk costumes and exhibits of uniquely handcrafted tankards. Temporary exhibits here are also noteworthy.
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Town Hall
At the town centre on Raekoja plats is the Town Hall. Built between 1782 and 1789, it's topped by a tower and weather vane, and fronted by a statue of lovers kissing under a spouting umbrella. The building's design came courtesy of the German architect JHB Walter, who modelled it on a typical Dutch town hall. A clock was added to encourage students to be punctual for classes.
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Elva Vitipalu
Elva Vitipalu lies about 2km southeast of town. If you're on foot, you can take the walking path from the information office. Inside the reserve, hiking and biking trails pass near idyllic lakes, through pine forests and along the wandering Elva River. You can overnight in the reserve inside wooden cabins or camp sites. Pick up trail maps from the Elva information office.
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Vanemuine Theatre
Named after the ancient Estonian song god, this theatre hosted the first Estonian-language theatre troupe, which performed here in 1870. The venue still hosts an array of classical and alternative theatrical and musical performances. It also stages performances at its small stage (744 0160; Vanemuise tänav 45) and Sadamateater (734 4248; Soola 5b).
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Suudlevad Tudengid
One of several outdoor cafés on the main square, this one serves nicely prepared international fare (pasta, gazpacho, burgers, mushroom risotto). Downstairs there's a cosy brick-lined café. The restaurant incidentally means 'Kissing Students' - presumably named after the fountain rather than the sometimes frisky customers.
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KGB Cells Museum
The former KGB headquarters, known infamously as the 'Grey House', is now the sombre KGB Cells Museum, chronicling the deportations and life in the gulags. In 1990 the weeping cornflower monument was erected in front of the KGB buildings in memory of the victims of Soviet repression. The blue cornflower is Estonia's national flower.
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Tartu Art Museum
Near the Town Hall is the wonderfully crooked building housing the Tartu Art Museum, former home of Colonel Barclay de Tolly (1761-1818), an exiled Scot who distinguished himself in the Russian army's 1812 campaign against Napoleon. Foundations laid partially over an old town wall have given the building its pronounced lean.
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Linnamägi
The tree-covered hill south of the church is Linnamägi (Castle Hill), a major stronghold from the 10th to 12th centuries. There are traces of old fortifications on top, and good views of the surrounding country. Archaeological finds indicate that the area around the hill was inhabited as early as the 1st century AD.
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Tartu Cathedral
Atop Cathedral Hill is the imposing Gothic Tartu Cathedral. It was built by German knights in the 13th century, rebuilt in the 15th century, despoiled during the Reformation in 1525, used as a barn, and partly rebuilt between 1804 and 1807 to house the university library, which is now the Museum of University History.
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Emajõe Ärikeskus Sauna
Many hotels have saunas, but if you're looking for something a little different, head to Emajõe Ärikeskus Sauna. On the 13th floor of a shiny building that resembles a hip flask, this sauna provides unbeatable views. You can reserve by phone or at the information desk on the ground floor.
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Estonian Literary Museum
One of the most important archives in the country, the Estonian Literary Museum is a national research museum housing an immense collection of Estonian folklore, ethnomusicology and cultural history. The museum hosts periodic exhibitions of historical artefacts and photographs from the collection.
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