Things to do in Tartu
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Toomemägi (Cathedral Hill)
Rising behind the Town Hall, Toomemägi is a splendidly landscaped park, with walking paths meandering through the trees. This hill is the reason for Tartu's existence, functioning on and off as a stronghold from around the 5th or 6th century. Atop the hill is the imposing Gothic cathedral Toomkirik (dome church) built by German knights in the 13th century.
The cathedral was rebuilt in the 15th century, despoiled during the Reformation in 1525, used as a barn, and partly rebuilt in 1804-07 to house the university library, which is now the Museum of University History. Inside you'll find a reconstructed autopsy chamber and other exhibits chronicling student life.
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Student's Lock-Up
The Student's Lock-Up is fascinating; it's where 19th-century students were held in solitary confinement for various infractions. Back then, if you failed to return library books on time, you'd net two days in the attic; insulting a lady, four days; insulting a (more sensitive?) cloakroom attendant, five days; duelling, up to three weeks. Today one of these rather comfy rooms, with walls covered in original graffiti, is open for viewing.
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St John's Church
North of the university, on the continuation of Ülikooli, stands the magnificent St John's Church. This brick church dates back to at least 1323, and is unique for its rare terracotta sculptures in niches around the main portal. It lay in ruins following the Soviet bombing raid in 1944. Today it is once again open - after 16 years of renovation.
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Toy Museum
Set in one of Tartu's oldest buildings (dating back to the 1770s), the Toy Museum is a big hit with the under-eight crowd. Dolls, model trains, rocking horses, toy soldiers and tons of other toys on display date back 100 years. If all those unobtainable toys have unearthed your inner child, there's a playroom upstairs for more hands-on activity.
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Café Wilde
This richly decorated place serves good coffees, decadent homemade cakes and light sandwiches. Its namesake is Peter Ernst Wilde, who opened a publishing house on the premises in the 18th century, though the pub also pays tribute to two literary Wildes: Oscar Wilde and Eduard Wilde. For heartier dining (and drinking) head to the upstairs pub.
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La Dolce Vita
Thin-crust pizzas come straight from the wood-burning oven at this charming pizzeria. You'll also find pastas, salads and classic but casual décor (red-and-white checked tablecloths, Fellini posters). There's a patio at the back.
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Observatory
Atop Cathedral Hill is the old Observatory, set in a grand 1810 building. It's open by appointment, so phone ahead.
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Tartu University
Tartu University was founded in 1632 by the Swedish king, Gustaf II Adolf. Lined with Corinthian columns, the impressive main building dates from 1803. More fascinating is the Student's Lock-Up, where 19th-century students were held in solitary confinement for various infractions. One of these rooms, complete with original graffiti, is open for viewing.
North of the university on the continuation of Ülikooli stands the magnificent St John's Church, dating back to at least 1323. The church is unique for its rare terracotta sculptures in niches around the main portal. It lay in ruins following the Soviet bombing raid in 1944. Today, it is once again open - after a lengthy…
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Toomemägi
Toomemägi, rising behind the Town Hall, is a splendidly landscaped park, with walking paths meandering through the trees. This hill is the original reason for Tartu's existence, functioning on and off as a stronghold from around the 5th or 6th century. The approach from Raekoja plats is along Lossi tänav, which passes beneath the Angel's Bridge (Inglisild), which was built between 1836 and 1838. A bit further up the hill is Devil's Bridge (Kuradisild).
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University Café
This old-world café with beautiful wooden floors and an outdoor patio is one of the gems of Tartu. Palm trees, high ceilings and black-and-white photographs give a colonial charm to the upstairs airy space. Buffet meals are charged by the kilo. Downstairs there's a simpler buffet (decent breakfasts), also with outdoor patio, that makes a good spot for coffee or a quick meal.
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Estonian National Museum
Tartu, as the major repository of Estonia's cultural heritage, has an abundance of first-rate museums. Among them is perhaps the country's best: the Estonian National Museum traces the history, life and traditions of the Estonian people. Don't miss the regional displays of folk costumes and exhibits of uniquely handcrafted tankards. Temporary exhibits here are also noteworthy.
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Town Hall
At the town centre on Raekoja plats is the Town Hall. Built between 1782 and 1789, it's topped by a tower and weather vane, and fronted by a statue of lovers kissing under a spouting umbrella. The building's design came courtesy of the German architect JHB Walter, who modelled it on a typical Dutch town hall. A clock was added to encourage students to be punctual for classes.
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Vanemuine Theatre
Named after the ancient Estonian song god, this theatre hosted the first Estonian-language theatre troupe, which performed here in 1870. The venue still hosts an array of classical and alternative theatrical and musical performances. It also stages performances at its small stage (744 0160; Vanemuise tänav 45) and Sadamateater (734 4248; Soola 5b).
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KGB Cells Museum
The former KGB headquarters, known infamously as the 'Grey House', is now the sombre KGB Cells Museum, chronicling the deportations and life in the gulags. In 1990 the weeping cornflower monument was erected in front of the KGB buildings in memory of the victims of Soviet repression. The blue cornflower is Estonia's national flower.
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Tartu Art Museum
Near the Town Hall is the wonderfully crooked building housing the Tartu Art Museum, former home of Colonel Barclay de Tolly (1761-1818), an exiled Scot who distinguished himself in the Russian army's 1812 campaign against Napoleon. Foundations laid partially over an old town wall have given the building its pronounced lean.
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Tartu Cathedral
Atop Cathedral Hill is the imposing Gothic Tartu Cathedral. It was built by German knights in the 13th century, rebuilt in the 15th century, despoiled during the Reformation in 1525, used as a barn, and partly rebuilt between 1804 and 1807 to house the university library, which is now the Museum of University History.
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Emajõe Ärikeskus Sauna
Many hotels have saunas, but if you're looking for something a little different, head to Emajõe Ärikeskus Sauna. On the 13th floor of a shiny building that resembles a hip flask, this sauna provides unbeatable views. You can reserve by phone or at the information desk on the ground floor.
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Estonian Literary Museum
One of the most important archives in the country, the Estonian Literary Museum is a national research museum housing an immense collection of Estonian folklore, ethnomusicology and cultural history. The museum hosts periodic exhibitions of historical artefacts and photographs from the collection.
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A Le Coq Beer Museum
The A Le Coq Beer Museum at the brewery briefly covers the history of beer-making, but focuses mainly on the machinery and techniques A Le Coq has used to churn out their trademark beverage since 1879. You get your chance to sample their brew at the end - have some patience!
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Club Tallinn
Tartu's best nightclub is a multifloored dance fest with many nooks and crannies. Top-notch DJs spin here, drawing an eager, young crowd. Unfortunately, it's open only during the school year. During the summer, Club Tallinn packs up and moves to Pärnu.
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Maailm
The old wooden floors, beamed ceilings and wildly decorated walls may make you feel like you've stumbled across Greg Brady's secret Tartu hideaway. The food is just as eclectic: curry chicken, fish soup, vegetarian enchiladas and milkshakes.
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Hansa Tall
Set like an old-fashioned tavern, this lively pub also has an extensive outdoor courtyard that draws a fair mix of locals and tourists on warm summer days. If it's not your scene you can always try Õlle Tare, a popular pub next door.
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Tartu University Art Museum
The Tartu University Art Museum contains mainly plaster casts of ancient Greek sculptures, made in Europe in the 1860s and 1870s, and an old mummy. The rest of the collection was evacuated to Russia during the war and has never returned.
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Gruusia Saatkond
A rustic but colourfully decorated dining room sets the scene for feasting on hearty plates of Georgian cuisine. Eggplant with walnuts, hatšapuri, trout with walnuts and shashlik are among the favourites.
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Tartu Sports Museum
The Tartu Sports Museum chronicles much more than Estonian Olympic excellence. There's a display of the life of a 19th-century postman and early-20th-century bodybuilders, and interactive tug-of-war on the 2nd floor.
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