Things to do in Lahemaa National Park
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Palmse Manor
The restored Palmse Manor and park at Palmse, 8km north of Viitna, is the showpiece of Lahemaa. In the 13th century a Cistercian monastery occupied the land, and it was later developed as a private estate by a Baltic-German family (the von der Pahlens) who ran the property from 1677 until 1923 (when it was expropriated by the state).
Fully restored to its former glory, the manor house, dating from the 1780s, contains period furniture and fittings. Other estate buildings have also been restored and put to new use: the ait (storage room) is a summer exhibition hall; the viinavabrik (distillery) houses a hotel and restaurant; the kavaleride maja (house of Cavaliers), once a …
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Sea Museum
The former Soviet coastguard barracks at Käsmu (Captains' Village) now shelters the Sea Museum. In the 1920s a third of all registered boats in Estonia belonged to this village; at one time there were 62 long-distance captains living here. From 1945 to 1991 the entire national park's coastline was a military-controlled frontier, with a 2m-high barbed wire fence ensuring villagers couldn't access the beach or sea.
The museum has photographs and memorabilia tracing the history of the village and exhibits on marine life from the area. It also hosts the Viking Days festival in August, when Vikings of all nations congregate for a bloodless battle.
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Kuusekännu Riding Farm
Kuusekännu Riding Farm arranges horse riding for all levels, and trail rides through Lahemaa. Sample trips: a six-hour ride to Lahemaa Streams passing two waterfalls (€55), a two-day trek to Altja coastal village (€157). Prices include the ride, meals and accommodation in a guesthouse. To reach the farm, head 68km east of Tallinn along the Tallinn-Narva highway. Take the turn-off to Tapa city, drive 300m and turn right at the first intersection, then follow the signs to the farm. Be sure to call before showing up.
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Altja Kõrts
Set in an old wooden farmhouse with a thatched roof and traditionally attired waiters, this charming place serves delicious plates of home cooking. Cauliflower soup, salmon pie (the best!) and omelettes can't be beaten. Follow it up with fresh blueberry pie (in season). The menu is posted in Estonian, but the staff will gladly translate. It's on the main road leading into Altja, overlooking a yard full of swings.
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Forest Museum
The impressive, fully restored Sagadi Manor houses a Forest Museum, with exhibits on the park's flora (notably mushrooms) and fauna (stuffed animals). The collection of chainsaws and hunting rifles is impressive indeed. On the grounds is a decent hotel.
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Oandu Trail
Oandu Trail is a 4.7km circular hiking trail, 3km north of Sagadi, that is perhaps the park's most interesting. Note the trees that wild boars and bears have scratched, bark eaten by irascible moose, and pines scarred from resin-tapping.
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Viru Rapa
Viru Rapa is a 3.5km hiking trail across the Viru Bog, starting at the first kilometre off the road to Loksa off the Tallinn-Narva highway; look for the insectivorous sundew (Venus flytrap, Charles Darwin's favourite plant).
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Käsmu Circuit
Käsmu Circuit is a 8.5km hiking circuit from Käsmu village, taking in coast, pine forest, 'erratic' boulders and the Lake Käsmu (Käsmujärv); a longer route takes you to Eru.
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Café Isabella
In the grounds of Palmse Manor, this elegant café overlooks a swan-filled lake. Skip the mains (sausages etc) and concentrate on coffee, rhubarb cake and those idly floating birds.
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Võsu Kõrts
Võsu's best restaurant is a fine wooden tavern with indoor/outdoor seating. Smoked-fish salad, roasted codfish and grilled lamb are among the choices. Live music some nights.
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Altja Trail
Altja Trail 3.5km circular hiking trail beginning at 'Swing Hill' on the coast at Altja, taking in traditional net sheds and fishing cottages, and the open-air museum of stones.
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Viitna Kõrts
Almost opposite the eastbound bus stop at Viitna is this reconstruction of an 18th-century tavern serving a bare-bones buffet, with a more peaceful restaurant next door.
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Beaver Trail
Beaver Trail is a 1.7km hiking trail, 900m north of Oandu; it's a beautiful trek past beaver dams, although you're unlikely to see the shy creatures.
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Viitna Paths
Viitna Paths comprise three hiking paths (2km, 4km and 7km) that take in the lakes and forest shaped by glacier. Just south of busy Viitna bus stop.
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Majakivi Trail
Majakivi Trail is a 3.5km hiking trail on the Juminda Peninsula taking in the 7m-high Majakivi boulder.
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Anne Kurepalu
Anne Kurepalu arranges tours through the fragile ecosystem of Mohni Island.
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Võsu Grill Baar
Remains popular despite the basic fare: chicken, Wiener schnitzel, salmon.
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