Käsmu, set on a rocky shoreline, has plenty of low-key guesthouses. If you want rowdier beach action, head to Võsu, a popular summertime hang-out for Estonian students. Guesthouses are scattered throughout the region; the visitor centre in Palmse keeps lists of options. It's worth keeping in mind that lots of small guesthouses have dogs (big ones). Keep that in mind before vaulting over fences.