Things to do in Eritrea
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A
Sheikh Hanafi Mosque
Continue on from the port entrance until you get to the Piazza degli Incendi (meaning 'Square of the Fire', after it was the scene of a great fire in 1885), in the centre of which is the Sheikh Hanafi Mosque. At over 500 years old, this mosque is one of the oldest surviving structures in the city.
Sheikh Hanafi was a great teacher, who funded his students' studies in Egypt. The walls of the courtyard are decorated with stuccowork and inside hangs a remarkable chandelier from the glassworks of Murano near Venice in Italy.
reviewed
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B
Old Railway Station
From the Villa Melotti, take the road on the western side of Taulud and head north, passing by the causeway leading to the mainland. Look out for birds in the mud flats around the causeway. Pelicans are quite common visitors. Continuing north, you'll pass the Old Railway Station, built during the Italian occupation, with its columns and elegant façade.
There is access to the sambuk (dhow) docks just south of the train station, and it's worth taking a look at these beautiful traditional boats. There are always at least a couple around; the boats require a lot of maintenance.
reviewed
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C
Sallam Restaurant
It doesn't look like much from the outside and actually looks worse inside but, believe it or not, it is a culinary gem. Here you can relish the Yemeni speciality of fresh fish sprinkled with hot pepper and baked in a tandoori oven. The fish, served with a chapatti flat bread, is served in two sizes: medium and big. It's absolutely superb! Ask also for the mokbusa, the traditional accompaniment made with honey, butter and either dates or bananas.
It's deservedly popular with holidaying Asmarans and gets crowded at weekends. While eating you'll be surrounded by plenty of cats expecting a tidbit.
reviewed
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D
Imperial Palace
Just north of the gates of the Dahlak Hotel is the Imperial Palace, overlooking the harbour. The palace was badly damaged during the Struggle for Independence. In its present state, it gives a very vivid idea of how all Massawa looked shortly after the war. The original palace was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century.
The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. During the federation with Ethiopia, it was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose heraldic lions still decorate the gates. It's usually possible to wander around the grounds.
reviewed
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E
St Mariam Cathedral
On the causeway road, you'll see to your right the old Italian municipal buildings. Head south down the tree-lined road, past the Dahlak Hotel. Hotels and villas line the eastern shore. Some of the villas are exceptionally beautiful, combining elements of Art Deco style with traditional Moorish arcades and huge mashrabiyya balconies.
After about 500m you'll find yourself at the Orthodox St Mariam Cathedral , which is at the end of the causeway from the mainland. Opposite the cathedral is the massive monument to the Eritrean Struggle for Independence. Three huge tanks are preserved where they stopped in the final assault on the town in 1990, and now stand on a black marble…
reviewed
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Dankalia
Dankalia is the name given to the narrow strip of land about 50km (31mi) wide that stretches south of Massawa down to Djibouti (about 600km/372mi), along the coastline. You can't miss it on the map: it looks like a long peninsula protruding from the south of the country. It's a volcanic desert where you'll be struck in awe by otherworldly, lunar landscapes.
It is known as one of the hottest and most inhospitable places on Earth: there's little to see, nothing to do, and no great destination awaiting you at the other end. The journey is hot, tiring and demanding; few travellers come here. But the sense of exploration is real, even on the rickety old bus. If you drive, the…
reviewed
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Qohaito
Historians debate whether or not the ruins of Qohaito were once the inhabited walls of the ancient town of Koloe, a commercially important place during the good times of the great Aksumite kingdom. Even if it wasn't, the city's impressively large remains - covering an area of 2.5km (1.5mi) by 15km (9mi) - are testament to its once-great stature.
Though only about 20% of the ruins have been excavated, it'll still take you half a day to pick your way through the digging's main sights. The four columns and assorted rubble of the Temple of Mariam Wakiro are thought to have begun life intact as an early Christian church and are surrounded by the dusty remains of a half-dozen…
reviewed
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F
Sweet Asmara Caffe
This sleek pastry shop is a treasure-trove for the sweet tooth, with a tempting array of diet-busting little treats.
reviewed
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G
Odeon Cinema
Just off Harnet Ave, near the telecommunications building, the quirky Odeon Cinema, with its authentic Art Deco interior, is attractive.
reviewed
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H
Cinema Roma
A very inspiring place, with one of Asmara's finest historic interiors. Enjoy a beer or a coffee in the cafeteria in the lobby area.
reviewed
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I
Roof Garden
The only Indian restaurant in Eritrea, this upmarket joint on the 5th floor of a modernish building is praised for its lip-smacking biriyani and tandoori dishes. Recommended if you feel the time has come to give your tastebuds something new to sing about.
reviewed