Things to do in Massawa
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St Mariam Cathedral
On the causeway road, you'll see to your right the old Italian municipal buildings. Head south down the tree-lined road, past the Dahlak Hotel. Hotels and villas line the eastern shore. Some of the villas are exceptionally beautiful, combining elements of Art Deco style with traditional Moorish arcades and huge mashrabiyya balconies.
After about 500m you'll find yourself at the Orthodox St Mariam Cathedral , which is at the end of the causeway from the mainland. Opposite the cathedral is the massive monument to the Eritrean Struggle for Independence. Three huge tanks are preserved where they stopped in the final assault on the town in 1990, and now stand on a black marble…
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Imperial Palace
Just north of the gates of the Dahlak Hotel is the Imperial Palace, overlooking the harbour. The palace was badly damaged during the Struggle for Independence. In its present state, it gives a very vivid idea of how all Massawa looked shortly after the war. The original palace was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century.
The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. During the federation with Ethiopia, it was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose heraldic lions still decorate the gates. It's usually possible to wander around the grounds.
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Sallam Restaurant
It doesn't look like much from the outside and actually looks worse inside but, believe it or not, it is a culinary gem. Here you can relish the Yemeni speciality of fresh fish sprinkled with hot pepper and baked in a tandoori oven. The fish, served with a chapatti flat bread, is served in two sizes: medium and big. It's absolutely superb! Ask also for the mokbusa, the traditional accompaniment made with honey, butter and either dates or bananas.
It's deservedly popular with holidaying Asmarans and gets crowded at weekends. While eating you'll be surrounded by plenty of cats expecting a tidbit.
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Old Railway Station
From the Villa Melotti, take the road on the western side of Taulud and head north, passing by the causeway leading to the mainland. Look out for birds in the mud flats around the causeway. Pelicans are quite common visitors. Continuing north, you'll pass the Old Railway Station, built during the Italian occupation, with its columns and elegant façade.
There is access to the sambuk (dhow) docks just south of the train station, and it's worth taking a look at these beautiful traditional boats. There are always at least a couple around; the boats require a lot of maintenance.
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Sheikh Hanafi Mosque
Continue on from the port entrance until you get to the Piazza degli Incendi (meaning 'Square of the Fire', after it was the scene of a great fire in 1885), in the centre of which is the Sheikh Hanafi Mosque. At over 500 years old, this mosque is one of the oldest surviving structures in the city.
Sheikh Hanafi was a great teacher, who funded his students' studies in Egypt. The walls of the courtyard are decorated with stuccowork and inside hangs a remarkable chandelier from the glassworks of Murano near Venice in Italy.
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Hotel Savoiya
Even if many buildings on Massawa Island are in a very bad shape, they boast a dilapidated charm that is uniquely unforgettable. Start your exploration with a cup of coffee and delve into the maze of little streets. Fear not, you're never lost for long.
As you come over the causeway from Taulud Island, a broad sweep of white, arcaded palazzi (palaces) stretches out before you. On the corner, opposite the transport office, you'll see the Hotel Savoiya with its long gallery.
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Eritrea Diving Center
If you want to learn to dive, you can contact the Eritrea Diving Center on Taulud Island. Ask for the helpful English-speaking Nasreddin Osman, who can organise the usual Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) courses. Open-water courses (US$360) can usually be completed in four days. For those who just want a taste of Eritrea's underwater world, there's a 'Scuba Diving Introduction' for US$50, which runs over a half day.
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Covered Bazaar
To the north of the Campo is the covered market. Behind and to the north of the market lies the Massawa Hotel, bringing you into the main commercial artery of the town. Turn right towards the heart of the old town then take the first left. This area was the old Covered Bazaar. Its ancient roof - in the Turkish style - was beamed like an upturned boat; there are plans to rebuild it.
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Beaches Bar & Restaurant
At the back of the prominent, Soviet-style greyish building, this is the only independent restaurant on Taulud Island. What it lacks in style - the dining room is about as cosy as a dentist's waiting room - it makes up for with tasty dishes and a seaside terrace from where you can watch the sambuks. Italian and Eritrean specialities feature equally on the menu.
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Green Island
Green Island is 10 to 20 minutes from Massawa and is the most accessible place for decent snorkelling and tolerable beaches. To be frank, it ain't Bora Bora, but it can make an excellent retreat if you need some hush and a place to rest your sightseeing-abused feet. Dahlak Hotel organises day trips to Green Island (around nfa600 per boat).
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House of Abu Hamdum
On your right, about 150m from the port entrance, is the House of Abu Hamdum, with its mashrabiyya (trellised) balcony, which allowed cool breezes to enter and the air inside to circulate. It's a remarkable example of Turkish Ottoman architecture, but it is almost crumbling and needs urgent restoration.
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Campo
Passing through the Piazza degli Incendi, notice the small group of coral-block houses with finely detailed façades on your right. Then turn left into the Campo, a huge square lined on all sides by houses with trellised balconies, finely carved wooden doors and shutters of Turkish or Egyptian origin.
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Torino Hotel
Don't come to Massawa to wallow in revelry but if you want to find a dance partner head to this hotel. It has an airy roof terrace as well as a dancing area inside with the obligatory mirror ball. Depending on the day and the clientele, the atmosphere can vary from fun and relaxed to rather seedy.
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Villa Melotti
At the southern tip of the island is the beautiful 1930s Villa Melotti, built by the owners of the Asmara brewery. With its stunning setting on the seafront, gardens and swimming pools, it has the decadent grandeur of a Fellini film set. Unfortunately, it's not possible to go near the building.
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House of Mammub Mohammed Nahari
As you keep heading towards the port, you'll come across the ancient House of Mammub Mohammed Nahari with soaring Ottoman-style windows on every side. Unfortunately, they are particularly decrepit. Around this area are some large and ornate 18th-century Armenian and Jewish merchant houses.
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Dahlak Sea Touring
If you want to go on a fishing trip, you can hire a boat and a captain and set off. A half-day's rental of a small boat in the Bay of Massawa costs about around nfa2000 for one to three people, including the boat captain. Contact Dahlak Sea Touring .
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Banco d'Italia
Heading back towards the causeway, you'll pass the Banco d'Italia, an exact copy of its 1920s original and a mishmash of styles, including Gothic windows and towers. Unfortunately, the building is dilapidated and awaits restoration.
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Adulis Seafood
Opposite the mosque. Adulis also specialises in seafood. It enjoys better outdoor seating than the Sallam but the fried shrimps were utterly disappointing and service was lackadaisical the day we stopped by. Alcohol is not served.
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Eritrea Restaurant
This used to be the best place for Italian food on Massawa Island but these days the Eritrea has seemingly lost much of its appeal, with a thin menu and a general lack of motivation.
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Shaafi Mosque
Turn back towards the port entrance, passing by the Shaafi Mosque. Founded in the 11th century but rebuilt several times since, it's worth a quick look.
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coral-block house
Near the port entrance there is a good example of a 17th-century coral-block house. For centuries, coral was the local building stone.
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Turkish house
In a square beyond the Banco is a rare example of a Turkish house with a domed roof, now partially restored.
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Massawa Supermarket
The best stocked if you're preparing for a picnic, a trip to the islands or an expedition through Dankalia.
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Bellavista Supermarket
Opposite Massawa Supermarket. Another worthwhile option if you need to load up on food.
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