Sights in Eritrea
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Qohaito
Historians debate whether or not the ruins of Qohaito were once the inhabited walls of the ancient town of Koloe, a commercially important place during the good times of the great Aksumite kingdom. Even if it wasn't, the city's impressively large remains - covering an area of 2.5km (1.5mi) by 15km (9mi) - are testament to its once-great stature.
Though only about 20% of the ruins have been excavated, it'll still take you half a day to pick your way through the digging's main sights. The four columns and assorted rubble of the Temple of Mariam Wakiro are thought to have begun life intact as an early Christian church and are surrounded by the dusty remains of a half-dozen…
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Dankalia
Dankalia is the name given to the narrow strip of land about 50km (31mi) wide that stretches south of Massawa down to Djibouti (about 600km/372mi), along the coastline. You can't miss it on the map: it looks like a long peninsula protruding from the south of the country. It's a volcanic desert where you'll be struck in awe by otherworldly, lunar landscapes.
It is known as one of the hottest and most inhospitable places on Earth: there's little to see, nothing to do, and no great destination awaiting you at the other end. The journey is hot, tiring and demanding; few travellers come here. But the sense of exploration is real, even on the rickety old bus. If you drive, the…
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St Mariam Cathedral
On the causeway road, you'll see to your right the old Italian municipal buildings. Head south down the tree-lined road, past the Dahlak Hotel. Hotels and villas line the eastern shore. Some of the villas are exceptionally beautiful, combining elements of Art Deco style with traditional Moorish arcades and huge mashrabiyya balconies.
After about 500m you'll find yourself at the Orthodox St Mariam Cathedral , which is at the end of the causeway from the mainland. Opposite the cathedral is the massive monument to the Eritrean Struggle for Independence. Three huge tanks are preserved where they stopped in the final assault on the town in 1990, and now stand on a black marble…
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Imperial Palace
Just north of the gates of the Dahlak Hotel is the Imperial Palace, overlooking the harbour. The palace was badly damaged during the Struggle for Independence. In its present state, it gives a very vivid idea of how all Massawa looked shortly after the war. The original palace was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century.
The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. During the federation with Ethiopia, it was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose heraldic lions still decorate the gates. It's usually possible to wander around the grounds.
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Old Railway Station
From the Villa Melotti, take the road on the western side of Taulud and head north, passing by the causeway leading to the mainland. Look out for birds in the mud flats around the causeway. Pelicans are quite common visitors. Continuing north, you'll pass the Old Railway Station, built during the Italian occupation, with its columns and elegant façade.
There is access to the sambuk (dhow) docks just south of the train station, and it's worth taking a look at these beautiful traditional boats. There are always at least a couple around; the boats require a lot of maintenance.
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Sheikh Hanafi Mosque
Continue on from the port entrance until you get to the Piazza degli Incendi (meaning 'Square of the Fire', after it was the scene of a great fire in 1885), in the centre of which is the Sheikh Hanafi Mosque. At over 500 years old, this mosque is one of the oldest surviving structures in the city.
Sheikh Hanafi was a great teacher, who funded his students' studies in Egypt. The walls of the courtyard are decorated with stuccowork and inside hangs a remarkable chandelier from the glassworks of Murano near Venice in Italy.
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Hotel Savoiya
Even if many buildings on Massawa Island are in a very bad shape, they boast a dilapidated charm that is uniquely unforgettable. Start your exploration with a cup of coffee and delve into the maze of little streets. Fear not, you're never lost for long.
As you come over the causeway from Taulud Island, a broad sweep of white, arcaded palazzi (palaces) stretches out before you. On the corner, opposite the transport office, you'll see the Hotel Savoiya with its long gallery.
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Covered Bazaar
To the north of the Campo is the covered market. Behind and to the north of the market lies the Massawa Hotel, bringing you into the main commercial artery of the town. Turn right towards the heart of the old town then take the first left. This area was the old Covered Bazaar. Its ancient roof - in the Turkish style - was beamed like an upturned boat; there are plans to rebuild it.
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Former Governor's Palace
The best place to start exploring is the Former Governor's Palace, which stands majestically at the western end of Harnet Ave. Built in 1897 by the first Italian governor, it was used by Haile Selassie during the Ethiopian occupation. Unfortunately, it is not currently possible to visit it because it's an official building.
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House of Abu Hamdum
On your right, about 150m from the port entrance, is the House of Abu Hamdum, with its mashrabiyya (trellised) balcony, which allowed cool breezes to enter and the air inside to circulate. It's a remarkable example of Turkish Ottoman architecture, but it is almost crumbling and needs urgent restoration.
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Massawa Island
Possibly the most interesting of the three main neighbourhoods in the city of Massawa, Massawa Island is the site of the port and the old town. It's an astounding blend of Egyptian, Turkish and Italo-Moorish architecture. The buildings are made of coral rock with mashrabeya (wooden screened windows).
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Campo
Passing through the Piazza degli Incendi, notice the small group of coral-block houses with finely detailed façades on your right. Then turn left into the Campo, a huge square lined on all sides by houses with trellised balconies, finely carved wooden doors and shutters of Turkish or Egyptian origin.
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Villa Melotti
At the southern tip of the island is the beautiful 1930s Villa Melotti, built by the owners of the Asmara brewery. With its stunning setting on the seafront, gardens and swimming pools, it has the decadent grandeur of a Fellini film set. Unfortunately, it's not possible to go near the building.
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National Museum
Asmara's strong point are its buildings, rather than its museums, but it's also worth popping your head into the National Museum, west of the former Governor's Palace. It contains exhibits on the ethnic groups of Eritrea that give a basic introduction to traditional life in the countryside.
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House of Mammub Mohammed Nahari
As you keep heading towards the port, you'll come across the ancient House of Mammub Mohammed Nahari with soaring Ottoman-style windows on every side. Unfortunately, they are particularly decrepit. Around this area are some large and ornate 18th-century Armenian and Jewish merchant houses.
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Central Market
North of Harnet Ave, the sprawling Central Market is one of Asmara's major attractions. The best time to visit is early on Saturday (from 07:00), when people come in from all over the country. However, it was pretty tame when we visited because of the economic downturn in the country.
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Catholic Cathedral
Ambling down Harnet Ave you'll soon come across Asmara's most iconic monument, the elaborate, brick-walled Catholic cathedral. Consecrated in 1923, it is thought to be one of the finest Lombard-Romanesque-style churches outside Italy.
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Banco d'Italia
Heading back towards the causeway, you'll pass the Banco d'Italia, an exact copy of its 1920s original and a mishmash of styles, including Gothic windows and towers. Unfortunately, the building is dilapidated and awaits restoration.
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Bowling Alley
A block south of the Municipality building, the Bowling Alley is one of the few genuine 1950s alleys left in the world. It was probably built for US servicemen when they were manning military bases in the region.
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Great Mosque
Thread your way back from the Medebar Market to the south until you reach the Great Mosque. Completed in 1938, this grand complex combines rationalist, classical and Islamic styles.
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Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral
The Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral, to the east, was built in 1938 and is a curious blend of Italian and Eritrean architecture. Its central block is flanked by large square towers.
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Villa Roma
Opposite the Africa Pension, the gleaming Villa Roma is reminiscent of a Roman villa with its marble staircases, louvred shutters, curving balustrades and shady portico.
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Opera House
Within staggering distance from the Governor's Palace, the Opera House, completed around 1920, is one of Asmara's most elegant early-20th-century buildings.
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Shaafi Mosque
Turn back towards the port entrance, passing by the Shaafi Mosque. Founded in the 11th century but rebuilt several times since, it's worth a quick look.
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coral-block house
Near the port entrance there is a good example of a 17th-century coral-block house. For centuries, coral was the local building stone.
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