Things to do in Salisbury
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Doom Painting
In St Thomas's Church, the amazing doom painting is above the chancel arch, painted in 1475. It depicts Christ on the day of judgment, sitting astride a rainbow flanked by visions of heaven and hell; on the hell side, look out for two naked kings and a nude bishop, a miser with his moneybags, and a female alehouse owner, the only person allowed to hang on to her clothes.
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Salisbury Cathedral
England is endowed with countless stunning churches, but few can hold a candle to the grandeur and sheer spectacle of Salisbury Cathedral. Built between 1220 and 1258, the cathedral bears all the hallmarks of the early English Gothic style, with an elaborate exterior decorated with pointed arches and flying buttresses, and a sombre, austere interior designed to keep its congregation suitably pious.
Beyond the highly decorative West Front, a small passageway leads into the 70m-long nave, lined with handsome pillars of Purbeck stone. In the north aisle look out for a fascinating medieval clock dating from 1386, probably the oldest working timepiece in the world. At the easte…
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St Thomas's Church
This elegant church was built for cathedral workmen in 1219 and named after St Thomas Becket. Modified in the 15th century, its most famous feature is the amazing doom painting above the chancel arch, painted in 1475. This depicts Christ on the day of judgment, sitting astride a rainbow flanked by visions of Heaven and Hell; on the Hell side, look out for two naked kings and a nude bishop, a miser with his moneybags, and a female alehouse owner, the only person allowed to hang on to her clothes.
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Market Square & Poultry Cross
Markets were first held here in 1219, and the square still bustles with traders every Tuesday and Saturday. The narrow lanes that surround the square reveal their medieval specialities (Oatmeal Row, Fish Row, Silver St) but today the action is confined to the square, where you can pick up anything from fresh fish to dodgy digital watches. The 15th-century Poultry Cross is the last of four market crosses that once stood on the square.
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Cathedral Close
Salisbury Cathedral is surrounded by one of the country's most beautiful medieval closes. Many of the houses date from the same period as the cathedral, although the area was heavily restored during an 18th-century clean-up by James Wyatt. The close is encircled by a sturdy outer wall, constructed in 1333; the stout gates leading into the complex are still locked every night.
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Marrakech
This great little restaurant is the nearest you'll get to North Africa in Wiltshire, serving tangy tagines and bona fide Moroccan couscous in a terracotta-coloured dining room full of earthenware pots and tiled tables. There's even a small souk where you can buy Moroccan handicrafts, and with luck you might even get a spot of Middle Eastern dancing thrown in for free.
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Après LXIX
This achingly trendy bistro feels closer to Soho than Salisbury, with an artfully understated dining room filled with exposed brickwork and designer spotlights, and an imaginative menu with a magpie eye - Italian, French and Oriental flavours find their way into many dishes, all based around a solid reliance on good old British produce.
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Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum
The highlight of the Cathedral Close is at the Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum, in the King's House, is the interactive Stonehenge gallery, but there are also some interesting artefacts recovered from Old Sarum and lots of ceramics, historical artefacts and paintings, including a dreamy watercolour of Stonehenge by JMW Turner.
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Mojito
Authentic tapas and an unmistakably Spanish atmosphere characterise this sassy restaurant, which has a couple of dining areas split over twin floors, and plenty of Iberian attitude. There's an open-plan kitchen where you can see the dishes being put together - our top tip is the fantastic paella, which also comes in a veggie version.
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Malmesbury House
With a façade by Wren, Malmesbury House was a canonry in the 13th century and later the residence of the earls of Malmesbury, visited by notables including Charles II and Handel. It's still a private residence, but can be visited on pre-booked tours from April to October.
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Café Med
This breezy brasserie brings some Mediterranean vim to Salisbury's streets, and it's a popular spot for an early-evening meal. The menu offers British classics shot through with sun-kissed flavours - think sirloin steak with grilled vine tomatoes, or roast cod with pancetta.
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Lemon Tree
The menu at this tiny eatery is packed with character – how about chicken laced with white wine, butternut squash with Provençal sauce, or crab claw and avocado salad? The patio-garden makes warm weather dining a delight.
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Mompesson House
Built in 1701, this fine Queen Anne building boasts magnificent plasterwork ceilings, exceptional period furnishings and a wonderful carved staircase. All that made it the perfect location for the 1995 film Sense and Sensibility.
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Prezzo
Housed in a decidedly wonky half-timbered house, this sleek Italian does all the standard pizza, pasta and Italian dishes fantastically well, supplemented by some unusual choices including Sicilian chicken and a delicious red pesto burger.
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Escoba
Orange walls, Dali-esque paintings and a hot and sultry atmosphere make this Spanish-style bar a popular drinking den. Cool Sol beers and jugs of margarita are the tipple of choice, accompanied by plates of fresh tapas.
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Square
The kind of urban-style café you might not expect to find in provincial Salisbury, with the requisite clean lines and cream-and-chocolate tones, and a menu of paninis, pasta bakes and designer breakfasts.
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Salisbury Arts Centre
Housed in the converted St Edmund's church some 800m northeast of the cathedral, this innovative arts centre showcases cutting-edge theatre, dance and live gigs; photography and arts exhibitions are held in the foyer.
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Moloko
This curious bar seems to take its visual cue from Stalinist Russia - black paint, stark interiors and red stars abound - and you'll need the constitution of a Tartar to stomach the flavoured vodkas.
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Magna Carta
One of the four surviving copies of the Magna Carta, the historic agreement made between King John and his barons in 1215, is kept in the cathedral's Chapter House.
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Spirit
This hip hang-out is always packed with a young and beautiful crowd on weekends, with banging tunes on the decks and a choice of technicolour cocktails.
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Salisbury City Guides
Salisbury City Guides leads 1½-hour tours from the tourist office. There are also themed walks on Saturday and a ghost walk on Friday night.
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Wardrobe
Military buffs will enjoy the Wardrobe, home to the official museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment.
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College of Matrons
Just inside narrow High St Gate is the College of Matrons, founded in 1682 for widows and unmarried daughters of clergymen.
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Salisbury Chocolate Bar
With a scattering of cafe tables hugging counters brimful of handmade chocs and pastries, there is no better place to blow a diet.
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Haunch of Venison
Salisbury has plenty of decent pubs: try the medieval Haunch of Venison for a choice of more than 50 malt whiskies.
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