Things to do in Penzance
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Statue of Humphry Davy
At the top of Market Jew St is a statue to Penzance's most famous son, Humphry Davy (1778-1829), the pioneering 'chemical philosopher', amateur poet and fanatical trout fisherman. Davy was responsible for an astonishing number of scientific advances: the discovery of six new elements (including potassium, sodium and strontium), the invention of the miner's safety lamp, and the use of nitrous oxide (or laughing gas) as a medical anaesthetic.
He also penned reams of amateur poetry and befriended some of the 19th century's best-known Romantic writers, including Samuel Taylor Coleridge, although whether it was Davy's amateur verse or his ready supply of chemical narcotics tha…
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Egyptian House
As with Truro and Falmouth further east, Penzance's wealth was founded on the import-export trade, and most of the town's Georgian and Regency town houses were built for the merchants and sea captains who once plied their trade out of the harbour. The best examples can be seen along Chapel St and Queen St; look out for the extraordinary Egyptian House.
The Egyptian House looks like a bizarre cross between a Georgian town house and an Egyptian sarcophagus and was originally built for a wealthy mineralogist, John Lavin, as a geological museum.
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Abbey Restaurant
This cutting-edge British bistro has been garnering serious praise, not least from the boffins at the AA and Michelin guides. Underpinned by top-quality produce, the Abbey turns out consistently fabulous food in the light-filled dining room, and nibbles, cocktails and aperitifs in the crimson-walled bar downstairs. It's not cheap, but tucking into your roast monkfish or hot chocolate soufflé, you'll feel it's money well spent.
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Lime Tree
With a relaxed town-house setting and cosy front-room atmosphere, dining at the Lime Tree feels like having supper at a friend's house - assuming your friend is a gourmet chef with a passion for global cuisine. Cornish duck breast, sea bass and John Dory fillet for mains, chased down by homemade bread and vanilla crème brûlée.
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Jubilee Pool
At the eastern end of Penzance's 19th-century promenade, the glorious 1930s lido is a fantastic place for a summer dip. Since falling into disrepair in the 1980s, it's been thoroughly spruced up and is now open to al fresco bathers throughout the summer – just don't expect the water to be warm. Entry is half-price after 3.30pm.
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Penlee House Gallery & Museum
Penzance's historic art gallery displays a fine range of paintings by artists of the Newlyn School (including Stanhope Forbes) and hosts regular exhibitions on Cornwall's art history. Admission is free on Saturday.
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Renaissance Café
Light streams in through floor-to-ceiling windows at this contemporary café, hidden away in the Wharfside Shopping Centre overlooking Mount's Bay. Club sandwiches, ciabattas and salads feature, with more-substantial mains by night and late-night music at weekends.
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Turk's Head
Penzance isn't short of a boozer or two, but the old Turk's Head - purportedly the town's oldest pub - is a personal favourite. Tobacco-stained walls, patchy carpets and a battered bar just add to the atmosphere of a well-used (and much-loved) watering hole.
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Archie Brown's
A cosier wholefood caff you couldn't hope to find. Archie Brown's has been serving Penzance's earth-mothers and artsy crowd for years and shows no signs of flagging, with stocked-up counters full of crispy salads, veggie quiches and carrot cake.
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Harris' Restaurant
Penzance's original fine-dining restaurant is still going strong after 30-odd years. Times have moved on but the menu at Harris' is still mostly classic French, serving up local game and fish dishes in the scarlet-tinted. napkin-laced dining room.
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Bar Coco's
Bringing a little piece of southern Spain to Chapel St, this popular tapas bar is as good for a morning latte as for a late-night cerveza, and is usually crammed with paid-up members of Penzance's arty crowd.
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Blue Snappa
Expect fusion food and a lively, buzzy atmosphere at this surfy bar-brasserie, where you can tuck into a gourmet burger or Thai stir-fry or just sink a few cold brews.
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Acorn Arts Centre
An excellent independent arts centre, with regular programs of film, theatre and live music.
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Zero Lounge
More urban chic than olde-worlde, this open-plan bar also boasts the town's best beer patio.
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Turk's Head
They pull a fine pint of real ale at this, the oldest boozer in Penzance. It's said a smugglers' tunnel used to link the pub with the harbour – handy for sneaking in that liquid contraband – and the bar's covered in maritime memorabilia.
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Newlyn Art Gallery
The salty old harbour of Newlyn, on the western edge of Penzance, is known for two things: art and fishing. It's still one of the UK's busiest fishing ports, and there are plenty of shops dotted around the town where you can pick up fresh-cooked lobster, crab and seafood literally straight off the boats. During the 19th century, Newlyn was also the centre of the Newlyn School of artists, a group of figurative painters headed by Stanhope Forbes and his wife Elizabeth. The town's artistic connections live on at this contemporary art gallery.
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Honey Pot
Another wonderfully friendly Penzance cafe, opposite the Acorn Arts Centre. It's a popular spot for afternoon tea and cake, but also turns out tempting fare such as jacket potatoes and homemade homity pies. Naturally, nearly everything's made on site and locally sourced, and the big glass windows keep it sunny and light-filled.
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Exchange
Housed in Penzance's old telecoms building, this is the sister gallery to the Newlyn Art Gallery. The pulsating light installation outside is by the artist Peter Freeman, and is best seen after dark.
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Chapel Street Brasserie
Formerly Bar Coco's, this well-groomed Gallic bistro makes the perfect place for a hearty plate of French food, from steaming bowls of mussels to rich cassoulet. The 2-course prix fixe menu is super value at £12.50, and it's served at lunch and supper.
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Bakehouse
This funky double-floored diner is tucked down an alley just down the street from the Chapel Street Brasserie. Seafood-lovers and veggies are both catered for, but it's the carnivores who do best: copious steak choices are partnered with your choice of sauce or spicy rub.
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