Things to do in Exeter
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Herbies
Cosy and gently groovy, Herbies has been cheerfully feeding Exeter's vegetarians for more than 20 years. It's the place in town to tuck into delicious butterbean and vegetable pie, Moroccan tagine or cashew nut loaf. They're strong on vegan dishes, too.
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Cathedral Church of St Peter
Magnificent in warm, honey-coloured stone, Exeter's Cathedral Church of St Peter is framed by lawns and wonky half-timbered buildings - a quintessentially English scene often peopled by picnickers snacking to the sound of the bells.
The site's been a religious one since at least the 5th century but the Normans started the current building in 1114 and the towers of today's cathedral date from that period. In 1270 Bishop Bronescombe remodelled the whole building, a process that took 90 years, and introduced a mix of Early English and Decorated Gothic styles. You enter via the gorgeous Great West Front. Above the door, scores of weather-worn figures line an image screen, whi…
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Exeter Quay
The perfect place on a summer's day to forget you're in a city. The red stone warehouses that line the River Exe at Exeter Quay are home to antiques markets, pubs and restaurants, many with alfresco dining. There's been a quay on the site since Roman times, but by the 14th century the route to the sea had been cut off by an incredibly sharp piece of business practice.
Those with vested interests in forcing trade to the port of Topsham to the south, built a weir across the river - severing the city's water link. Undeterred, John Trew built the first ship canal in Britain in 1563 to restore access to the sea. The quay has open-air jazz on Sundays between June and September,…
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Exminster Marshes Nature Reserve
The foot and cycle paths along Exeter Quay join the Exe Valley Way and head southeast to shadow both the canal and an ever-broadening estuary towards the sea. For the first 3 miles the route is a blend of heritage city, countryside and light industry. The excellent Double Locks pub is 1.5 miles down the cycle path from the quay; 2 miles further on is the start of the Exminster Marshes Nature Reserve, which is run by the Royal Society of the Protection of Birds (RSPB).
One more great pub, the Turf Locks Hotel, is another 2 miles inside the reserve. From there a rougher trail connects with a path to Powderham Castle. You can also navigate the 6-mile canal by kayak - an enjo…
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Powderham Castle
The historic home of the Earl of Devon is Powderham. A stately but still friendly place, it was built in 1391, damaged in the Civil War and remodelled in the Victorian era. A visit takes in a fine wood-panelled Great Hall, parkland with 650 deer and a glimpse of life 'below stairs' in the kitchen. The earl and family are still resident and, despite its grandeur, for charming, fleeting moments it feels like you're actually wandering through someone's sitting room.
Powderham is on the River Exe near Kenton, 8 miles south of Exeter. Bus 2 runs from Exeter (30 minutes, every 20 minutes Monday to Friday.
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Underground Passages
Prepare to crouch down, don a hard hat and possibly get spooked in what is the only system of its kind open to the public in the country. These medieval, vaulted Underground Passages were built to house pipes bringing fresh water to the city. Unlike modern utility companies, the authorities opted to have permanent access for repairs, rather than dig up the streets each time - genius. Guides lead you through the network, telling tales of ghosts, escape routes and cholera.
The last tour is an hour before closing.
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Guildhall
The earliest parts of the Guildhall date from 1330, making it the oldest municipal building still in use in the country. A gloriously ornate barrel roof arches above wooden benches and crests of dignitaries – the mayor still sits in the huge throne-like chair at the end. Opening hours depend on civic functions.
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Bill Douglas Centre
A delightful homage to film and fun, the Bill Douglas Centre is a compact collection of all things celluloid, from magic lanterns to Mickey Mouse. Inside discover just what the butler did see and why the flicks are called the flicks. In a mass of movie memorabilia Charlie Chaplin bottle stoppers mingle with Ginger Rogers playing cards, James Bond board games and Star Wars toys.
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Museum
Roman Exeter features strongly in the city's museum. Expect chunks of mosaic, bits of amphorae and a good re-creation of the bathhouse that used to lie under what is now Cathedral Green. There are also piles of south Devon flints, and a reconstruction of a Dartmoor Bronze Age roundhouse. Hunt out the tomb-like Egypt room, complete with a 3000-year-old mummy case and (mock-up) hieroglyphics on the walls. There are good, free quiz sheets for children.
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City Wall
Fragments of Exeter's russet-red City Wall weave an elusive, two-mile trail around the fringes of the old Roman city. The most ancient bits are 2000 years old and with newer, particularly Civil War, defences built on top, it's perfect for playing a game of history detective - decoding the layers of the past. A surprising 70% is still standing and it springs up beside shops and car parks as well as parks, often accompanied by information panels.
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Exeter Cathedral
Magnificent in warm, honey-coloured stone, Exeter's Cathedral Church of St Peter is framed by lawns and wonky half-timbered buildings – a quintessentially English scene often peopled by picnickers snacking to the sound of the bells.
The site has been a religious one since at least the 5th century but the Normans started the current building in 1114; the towers of today's cathedral date from that period. In 1270 Bishop Bronescombe remodelled the whole building, a process that took 90 years and introduced a mix of Early English and Decorated Gothic styles.
Above the Great West Front scores of weather-worn figures line a screen that was once brightly painted. It now forms th…
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Michael Caines
Housed in the Royal Clarence and run by a double Michelin-starred chef, the food here is a complex blend of Westcountry ingredients and full-bodied French flavours. Try the cauliflower and truffle soup with roasted scallops, or the slow-roast beef with celeriac purée and Madeira sauce. The set lunches are a bargain (per 2/3 courses £15/20), while the seven-course tasting menu (£65) really is one to linger over.
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Redcoat Guided Tours
Redcoat Guided Tours are hugely varied. Themes range from ghosts and murder to Romans and religion - there's even a torch-lit prowl through Exeter's Catacombs. Tours leave from Cathedral Yard or the quay. There are two to five daily from April to October, and two to three daily from November to March. Pick up a programme from the tourist office.
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Exeter Castle
In the Northernhay Gardens, at the end of Castle St, you can skirt the tree-fringed ruins of the city's 11th-century castle (but not go inside). The gatehouse is worth searching out - it has a plaque commemorating three Devon women who were tried here for witchcraft in 1685 and became the last in the country to be hanged for the crime.
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Double Locks
A bit of a local legend, this atmospheric former lockhouse sits 2 miles south of the quay beside the Exeter Ship Canal. Scarred floorboards, creaking chairs, excellent ale and battered board games lend it a chilled vibe - helped by the real fires, waterside terrace and better than average bar food (available lunch and dinner).
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Café Paradiso
Hotel Barcelona's funky restaurant is set in a futuristic glass-sided circus top, which is dotted with Rothko-esque artwork and (intriguingly) painted white bicycles. Lunch is chic, with dishes such as curried crayfish on granary baguettes. And there's stylish dining at night (dishes include wood-fired trout).
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Exeter Cruises
Exeter Cruises shuttle down the Exeter Ship Canal from Exeter Quay to the Double Locks pub. A connecting boat, the White Heather, then ferries passengers the extra 4 miles to the Turf Locks Hotel. The trip takes 45 minutes (five daily June to August, Saturday & Sunday only April, May & September).
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Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery
Exeter's multipurpose museum has a little bit of everything, from Roman-era artefacts dug up around the city to excellent ethnographic displays from across the globe (look out for some spooky African masks and an impressive suit of samurai armour).
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Harry's
Harry's is the kind of welcoming neighbourhood bistro you wish was on your own doorstep but rarely is. The decor is all wooden chairs, blackboards and gilt mirrors; the food includes seared tuna, Spanish ham with marinated figs, and a hearty three bean chilli.
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On the Waterfront
In 1835 this was a warehouse; now its red-brick, barrel ceilings stretch back from a minimalist bar. There's typical pub-grub on offer for lunch and dinner and its tables stretch along the quayside - perfect for a riverside pint or a pizza.
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Ship Inn
Wood coats the ceiling, floors and even the walls at this city-centre, heavily beamed boozer. It claims to have been Sir Francis Drake's favourite pub - bet he wouldn't have recognised the tunes pulsing from the jukebox.
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Tyepyedong
Tucked away in an unlikely terrace of postwar shops, this minimalist eatery rustles up great value ramen and udon noodles – at lunchtime a dish-and-a-drink will only cost you £5.40.
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Quay House Interpretation & Visitor Centre
The Quay House Interpretation & Visitor Centre , with its small artefact and map collection, has more on the quay's past. There are more shops and cafés on the other side of the river.
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Refectory
In the Refectory at Exeter Cathedral you can tuck into cakes, quiches and soups at trestle tables surrounded by vaulted ceilings, stained glass and busts of the great, the good and the dead.
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No 21
A mellow eatery with subtle art on the walls and subtle lights on your food. There are imaginative fish, meat and veggie options - try the sea bass and chorizo or open mushroom ravioli.
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