Things to do in Dartmouth
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Greenway
The enchanting summer home of crime writer Agatha Christie sits beside the River Dart near Dartmouth. Part-guided tours allow you to wander between rooms where the furnishings and knick-knacks are much as she left them. You can check out her hats in the lobby, books in her library and clothes in her wardrobe, and listen to her speak (via replica radio) in the drawing room.
Woods speckled with splashes of magnolias, daffodils and hydrangeas frame the water, while the planting creates intimate, secret spaces – the boathouse and views over the river are delightful. In Christie's book Dead Man's Folly, Greenway doubles as Nasse House, with the boathouse making an appearance …
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Coleton Fishacre
For an enchanting glimpse of Jazz Age glamour, drop by this former home of the D'Oyly Carte family of theatre impresarios. Built in the 1920s, its gorgeous art deco embellishments include original Lalique tulip uplighters, comic bathroom tiles and a stunning saloon – complete with tinkling piano. The croquet terrace leads to deeply shelved subtropical gardens and suddenly revealed vistas of the sea. Hike the 4 miles along the cliffs from Kingswear, or drive.
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Dartmouth Castle
Mazy passages, atmospheric guardrooms and great views from the battlements. Get there via the tiny, open-top Castle Ferry
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Dartmouth-Dittisham Ferry
The best way to get to Greenway is on foot or by boat. Hike along the Dart Valley Trail from Kingswear (4 miles), or walk along the west bank from Dartmouth to the sleepy village of Dittisham (4 miles), then cross the river by the Dartmouth-Dittisham Ferry. It normally runs from 09:00 to 16:45, but if you're relying on it, call to check.
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Dartmouth Museum
The Dartmouth Museum displays a jumbled collection of costumes, swords, ships-in-bottles and vintage toys. The museum stands at the end of the Butterwalk, a row of wonky timber-framed houses that look as though they could collapse at any moment (although they have managed to remain standing since the late 17th century).
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RB's
Sleek and very chic, RB's is all slim leather chairs, cream wood and brown napkins with sparkling silver rings. The food is pretty stylish too: local guinea fowl with bacon, pork wrapped in Parma ham, and vegetable and potato frittata. Save room for the treacle crumble tart with Devon clotted cream for pud.
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New Angel
Dartmouth's Michelin-starred eatery is run by celebrity chef John Burton Race (of French Leave fame), so it serves up pheasant, Devon duck and local fish with more than a dash of Continental flair.
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Crab Shell
The shellfish gracing these sarnies has been landed on the quay a few steps away, and much of the fish has been smoked locally. Opt to fill your bread with mackerel with horseradish mayo, kiln-roast salmon with dill, or classic, delicious Dartmouth crab.
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Alf Resco
Tucked under a huge canvas awning, this cool hangout brings a dash of cosmopolitan charm to town. Rickety wooden chairs and old street signs are scattered around a front terrace, making a great place for brunch alongside the riverboat crews.
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Dartmouth Arms
As an antidote to Dartmouth's sailing chic, join the locals for an unpretentious pint at the atmospheric Dartmouth Arms. There's polished wood everywhere, even on the ceilings, and navigational lights and cross-sections of ships dot the walls.
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Taylor's
You can watch the boats on the boat float from the huge bay windows here, while the menu takes care of your tastebuds. There's everything from grilled lobster and Dartmouth crab to Devon lamb or asparagus and goat's cheese tart.
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Kendricks
A cosy, reliable bistro, which blends local food and international flavours. There are crayfish tails and egg noodles, smoked salmon and blinis as well as monkfish, surf 'n' turf and homemade burgers too.
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Bayard's Cove
It's worth tracking down Dartmouth's quaintly cobbled Bayard's Cove, the quay from which the Pilgrim Fathers set sail, having put into Dartmouth for repairs.
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Greenway Ferry
You can reach Greenway by sailing upriver from Dartmouth on the Greenway Ferry. Boats run only when the property is open; times vary and it's best to book.
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River Link
River Link runs cruises along the River Dart to Totnes (1¼ hours, two to four daily) from the pontoon at South Embankment.
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Flavel Centre
The Flavel Centre is the town's entertainment hub, hosting small-scale theatre and dance, as well as live music and films.
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Enchantress
You can chug about the Dart on a hired motorboat, or charter the Enchantress, a yacht complete with Richard the skipper.
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Castle Cove
For a swim, clamber down the steps and join the locals at the tiny Castle Cove just round from the castle.
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Seahorse
The fish here is so fresh they change the menu twice a day. So, depending on what's been landed at Brixham (7 miles away) or Dartmouth (a few yards away), you might get cuttlefish in Chianti, sea bream with roasted garlic, or fried local squid with garlic mayonnaise. The river views are charming, the atmosphere relaxed; definitely one not to miss.
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