Things to do in Chester
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City Walls
A good way to get a sense of Chester's unique character is to walk the 2-mile circuit along the walls that surround the historic centre. Originally built by the Romans around AD 70, the walls were altered substantially over the following centuries but have retained their current position since around 1200. The tourist office's Walk Around Chester Walls leaflet is an excellent guide.
Of the many features along the walls, the most eye-catching is the prominent Eastgate, where you can see the most famous clock in England after London's Big Ben, built for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee in 1897.
At the southeastern corner of the walls are the wishing steps, added in 1785; loca…
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Chester Cathedral
Originally a Benedictine abbey built on the remains of an earlier Saxon church dedicated to St Werburgh (the city's patron saint), it was shut down in 1540 as part of Henry VIII's dissolution frenzy but reconsecrated as a cathedral the following year. Although the cathedral itself was given a substantial Victorian facelift, the 12th-century cloister and its surrounding buildings are essentially unaltered and retain much of the structure from the early monastic years. There are 1¼-hour guided tours to really get to grips with the building and its history.
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The Rows
Chester's other great draw is the Rows, a series of two-level galleried arcades along the four streets that fan out in each direction from the central Cross. The architecture is a handsome mix of Victorian and Tudor (original and mock) buildings that house a fantastic collection of individually owned shops.
The origin of the Rows is a little unclear, but it is believed that as the Roman walls slowly crumbled, medieval traders built their shops against the resulting rubble banks, while later arrivals built theirs on top.
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St John the Baptist Church
Built on the site of an older Saxon church in 1075, it's been a peaceful ruin since 1581. It includes the remains of a Norman choir and medieval chapels.
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Albion
No children, no music, and no machines or big screens (but plenty of Union Jacks). This 'family hostile' Edwardian classic pub is a throwback to a time when ale-drinking still had its own rituals - another word for ingrained prejudices. Still, this is one of the finest pubs in northwest England precisely because it doggedly refuses to modernise.
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Grosvenor Museum
Excellent museum with the country's most comprehensive collection of Roman tombstones. At the back of the museum is a preserved Georgian house, complete with kitchen, drawing room, bedroom and bathroom.
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Chester Roman Amphitheatre
Chester's most complete set of Roman ruins were discovered in 1929 when a boiler room was being built underneath Dee House and a large curved wall appeared. Once an arena that seated 7000 spectators (making it the country's largest), this Roman ampitheatre has undergone a series of mildly successful excavations at the hands of enthusiastic locals.
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Katie's Tea Rooms
This stone-walled tearoom inside an historic building is the place to go for a light lunch. After 5pm it turns into MD's Restaurant, a Continental eatery with a pretty tasty menu.
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Arkle
Named after the famous Irish champion racehorse, Simon Radley's Arkle serves up a sumptuous feast of French-inspired classics such as tranche of monkfish with air-dried ham and braised turbot with baby squid. It's elegant (gentlemen in jackets, please), sophisticated and has a Michelin star to prove it.
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Bithell Boats - Cruises
Bithell Boats runs cruises along the Dee. Cruises are 30-minutes or hour-long up and down the Dee, including a foray into the gorgeous Eaton Estate, home of the duke and duchess of Westminster. All departures are from the riverside along the Groves and cost from around £6 to £13.50.
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Boat Hire
Steps at the back of St John the Baptist Church (Vicar's Lane) lead down to the riverside promenade known as the Groves. Here you can hire different kinds of boats with pedals, oars or small engines. This is also the departure point for river cruises.
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Ghosthunter Trail
The ubiquitous ghost tour, looking for things that go bump in the night.
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Cathedral Tours
The cathedral was a Benedictine abbey built on the remains of an earlier Saxon church dedicated to St Werburgh, patron saint of Chester. There are 1¼-hour guided tours to really get to grips with the building and its history.
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History Hunter Tours
The tourist office and Chester Visitors' Centre offer a broad range of walking tours departing from both centres. Each tour lasts between 1½ and two hours. History hunter explores two thousand years of Chester history.
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Bear & Billet Pub
Just inside Southgate, known here as Bridgegate (as it's at the northern end of the Old Dee Bridge), is the 1664 Bear & Billet pub, Chester's oldest timber-framed building and once a tollgate into the city.
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Falcon
This is an old-fashioned boozer with a lovely atmosphere; the surprisingly adventurous menu offers up dishes such as Jamaican peppered beef or spicy Italian sausage casserole. Great for both a pint and a bite.
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Living Room
It's a chain all right, but a very pleasing and popular one at that. The Chester version is spread over three floors, which include the Dining Room and the Study private bar. It's behind the cathedral.
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Boulevard de la Bastille
Our favourite café in town is also one of the most handsome: a very French place on the top tier of the Rows that is perfect for a café au lait and pain au chocolat.
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City Sightseeing Chester
Offers open-top bus tours of the city, picking up from the tourist office and Chester Visitors' Centre.
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Dewa Roman Experience
The Dewa Roman Experience, just off Bridge St, takes you through a reconstructed Roman street with the aim of showing you what Roman life was like.
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Ruan Orchid
Every conceivable Thai dish and concoction of curry is available at this lovely, intimate restaurant.
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Boat House
The Boat House is a good pub with great views overlooking the river.
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Alexander's Jazz Theatre
Alexander's is a combination wine bar, coffee bar and tapas bar.
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