Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey is such an important commemoration site for both the British royalty and the nation’s political and artistic idols, it’s difficult to overstress its symbolic value or imagine its equivalent anywhere else in the world. With the exception of Edward V and Edward VIII, every English sovereign has been crowned here since William the Conqueror in 1066, and most of the monarchs from Henry III (died 1272) to George II (died 1760) were also buried here.

There is an extraordinary amount to see here but, unless you enjoy feeling like part of a herd, come very early or very late.

The abbey is a magnificent sight. Though a mixture of architectural styles, it is considered the finest example of Early English Gothic (1180–1280). The original church was built in the 11th century by King (later St) Edward the Confessor, who is buried in the chapel behind the main altar. Henry III (r 1216–72) began work on the new building but didn’t complete it; the French Gothic nave was finished in 1388. Henry VII’s huge and magnificent chapel was added in 1519. Unlike St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey has never been a cathedral – it is what is called a ‘royal peculiar’ and is administered directly by the Crown.

It is perhaps more impressive from outside than within. The interior is chock-a-block with small chapels, elaborate tombs of the monarchy, and monuments to various luminaries down through the ages. And, as you might expect for one of the most visited churches in Christendom, it can get intolerably busy.

Immediately past the barrier through the north door is what’s known as Statesmen’s Aisle, where politicians and eminent public figures are commemorated mostly by staggeringly large marble statues. The Whig and Tory prime ministers who dominated late Victorian politics, Gladstone (who is buried here) and Disraeli (who is not), have their monuments uncomfortably close to one another. Nearby is a monument to Robert Peel, who, as home secretary in 1829, created the Metropolitan Police. Robert’s policemen became known as ‘Bobby’s boys’ and later, simply, ‘bobbies’.

At the eastern end of the sanctuary, opposite the entrance to the Henry VII Chapel, is the rather ordinary-looking Coronation Chair, upon which almost every monarch since the late 13th century is said to have been crowned. Up the steps in front of you and to your left is the narrow Queen Elizabeth Chapel, where Elizabeth I and her half-sister ‘Bloody Mary’ share an elaborate tomb.

The Henry VII Chapel, in the easternmost part of the abbey, has spectacular circular vaulting on the ceiling. Behind the chapel’s altar is the elaborate sarcophagus of Henry VII and his queen, Elizabeth of York.

Beyond the chapel’s altar is the Royal Air Force (RAF) Chapel, with a stained-glass window commemorating the force’s finest hour, the Battle of Britain. Next to it, a plaque marks the spot where Oliver Cromwell’s body lay for two years until the Restoration, when it was disinterred, hanged and beheaded. The bodies believed to be those of the two child princes (allegedly) murdered in the Tower of London in 1483 are buried here. The chapel’s southern aisle contains the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots, beheaded on the orders of her cousin Elizabeth and with the acquiescence of her son, the future James I.

The Chapel of St Edward the Confessor, the most sacred spot in the abbey, lies just east of the sanctuary and behind the high altar; access may be restricted to protect the 13th-century floor. St Edward was the founder of the abbey and the original building was consecrated a few weeks before his death. His tomb was slightly altered after the original was destroyed during the Reformation.

The south transept contains Poets’ Corner, where many of England’s finest writers are buried and/or commemorated; a memorial here is the highest honour the Queen can bestow. Just north is the Lantern, the heart of the abbey, where coronations take place. If you face eastwards while standing in the centre, the sanctuary is in front of you. George Gilbert Scott designed the ornate high altar in 1897. Behind you, Edward Blore’s chancel, dating from the mid-19th century, is a breathtaking structure of gold, blue and red Victorian Gothic. Where monks once worshipped, boys from the Choir School and lay vicars now sing the daily services.

The entrance to the Cloister is 13th century, while the cloister itself dates from the 14th. Eastwards down a passageway off the Cloister are three museums run by English Heritage. The octagonal Chapter House has one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval tile floors and retains traces of religious murals. It was used as a meeting place by the House of Commons in the second half of the 14th century. To the right of the entrance to Chapel House is what is claimed to be the oldest door in the UK – it’s been there 950 years. The adjacent Pyx Chamber is one of the few remaining relics of the original abbey and contains the abbey’s treasures and liturgical objects. The Abbey Museum exhibits the death masks of generations of royalty, wax effigies representing Charles II and William III (who is on a stool to make him as tall as his wife Mary), as well as armour and stained glass.

To reach the 900-year-old College Garden, enter Dean’s Yard and the Little Cloisters off Great College St.

On the western side of the cloister is Scientists’ Corner, where you will find Sir Isaac Newton’s tomb; a nearby section of the northern aisle of the nave is known as Musicians’ Aisle.

The two towers above the west door are the ones through which you exit. These were designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and completed in 1745. Just above the door, perched in 15th-century niches, are the latest sacred additions to the abbey: 10 stone statues of international 20th-century martyrs. These were unveiled in 1998 and they include the likes of Martin Luther King and the Polish priest St Maximilian Kolbe, who was murdered by the Nazis at Auschwitz. To the right as you exit is a memorial to innocent victims of oppression, violence and war around the world. ‘All you who pass by, is it nothing to you?’ it asks poignantly.

The 90-minute guided tours leave several times during the day (Monday to Saturday). One of the best ways to visit the abbey is to attend a service, particularly evensong (5pm weekdays, 3pm at weekends). Sunday Eucharist is at 11am.