Somerset House

Lonely Planet review

Passing beneath the arch towards this splendid Palladian masterpiece, it's hard to believe that the magnificent courtyard in front of you, with its 55 dancing fountains, was a car park for tax collectors up until a spectacular refurbishment in 2000. William Chambers designed the house in 1775 for royal societies and it now contains three fabulous museums.

The courtyard is transformed into a popular ice rink in winter and used for concerts in summer, as well as an improvised fountain-bathing area for toddlers. Behind the house, there's a sunny terrace and café overlooking the embankment.

Immediately to your right as you enter the grounds of Somerset House from the Strand, you'll find the Courtauld Institute of Art, a superb gallery connected to the Courtauld Institute of Arts, Britain's foremost academy of art history. Have an uncrowded stroll between the walls of this wonderful place, and see work by Rubens, Botticelli, Cranach, Cézanne, Degas, Renoir, Manet, Monet, Matisse, Gauguin, van Gogh and Toulouse-Lautrec, to mention but a few. There are lunchtime talks on specific works or themes from the collection at 13:15 every Monday and Friday. A little café and the plush Admiral 2 restaurant provide sustenance.

Somerset House is now also home to the Embankment Galleries, with an interesting programme of contemporary fashion, art, photography, design and architecture exhibitions.