National Gallery

Lonely Planet review

With more than 2000 Western European paintings on display, the National Gallery is one of the largest galleries in the world. But it's the quality of the works, and not the quantity, that impresses most. Almost five million people visit each year, keen to see seminal paintings from every important epoch in the history of art.

Although it can get ridiculously busy in here, the galleries are spacious, sometimes even sedate, and it's never so bad that you can't appreciate the works. That said, weekday mornings and Wednesday evenings (after 18:00 ) are the best times to visit, as the crowds are small. If you have the time to make multiple visits, focus on one section at a time to fully appreciate the astonishing collection.

The size and layout can be confusing, so make sure you pick up a free gallery plan at the entrance. To see the art in chronological order, start with the Sainsbury Wing on the gallery's western side, which houses paintings from 1260 to 1510. In these 16 rooms you can explore the Renaissance through paintings by Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Raphael and Titian, among others. This is where you'll also find the Micro gallery, a dozen computer terminals on which you can explore the pictorial database, find the location of your favourite works or create your own personalised tour.

The High Renaissance (1510-1600) is covered in the West Wing, where Michelangelo, Titian, Correggio, El Greco and Bronzino hold court, while Rubens, Rembrandt and Caravaggio can be found in the North Wing (1600-1700). The most crowded part of the gallery - and for good reason - is likely to be the East Wing (1700-1900) housing the many works of the impressionists and postimpressionists, including van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne, Monet, Degas and Renoir. Although it hardly stands out in such exalted company, the impressive display featuring 18th-century British landscape artists Gainsborough, Constable and Turner is also well worth checking out.

The gallery's collection cuts off at 1900, to see 20th-century art you need to head to Tate Modern and, for British art, Tate Britain.

Temporary exhibitions - for which you normally have to pay, and often even book in advance - go on show in the basement of the Sainsbury Wing and are often outstanding.

If you want to immerse yourself in this pool of riches rather than just skim across the surface, borrow a themed or comprehensive audioguide (around £4 donation recommended) from the Central Hall. Free one-hour introductory guided tours leave from the information desk in the Sainsbury Wing daily at 11:30 and 14:30 , with an extra tour at 18:30 on Wednesday. There are also special trails and activity sheets for children.

The new National Dining Rooms, in the Sainbury Wing, is a wonderful recent addition to the gallery. Run by Oliver Peyton (the man behind Inn the Park in St James's Park), this is an excellent, well-lit space, with quality British food in the restaurant, and pastries and cakes in the bakery.