Kew Gardens

Lonely Planet review

Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew is one of the most popular visitors' attractions in London, which means it can get very crowded during summer, especially at weekends. Spring is probably the best time to visit, but at any time of year this 120-hectare expanse of lawns, formal gardens and greenhouses has delights to offer.

As well as being a public garden, Kew is an important research centre, and it maintains its reputation as the most exhaustive botanical collection in the world.

Wonderful plants and trees aside, Kew has several specific sights within its borders. Assuming you come by tube and enter via Victoria Gate, you'll come almost immediately to a large pond overlooked by the enormous Palm House, a hothouse of metal and curved sheets of glass dating from 1848 and housing all sorts of exotic tropical greenery; the aerial walkway offers a bird's-eye view of the lush vegetation. Just northwest of the Palm House is the tiny but irresistible Water Lily House (Mar-Dec), dating from 1852 and the hottest glasshouse at Kew.

Further north is the stunning Princess of Wales Conservatory, opened in 1987 and housing plants in 10 different computer-controlled climatic zones - everything from desert to mangrove swamp. In the tropical zone you'll find the most famous of Kew's 38,000-odd plant species, the 3m-tall titan arum, or 'corpse flower', which is overpoweringly obnoxious-smelling when it blooms in April. Just beyond the conservatory is Kew Gardens Gallery bordering Kew Green, which houses exhibitions of paintings and photos mostly of a horticultural theme.

Heading westwards from the gallery you'll arrive at the redbrick Kew Palace ( 10:00 - 17:30 late Mar-late Oct), a former royal residence once known as Dutch House, built in 1631. It was the favourite home of George III and his family; his wife, Queen Charlotte, died here in 1818. The palace underwent extensive renovations for almost a decade and reopened in 2006; don't miss the Georgian rooms restored to how they would look in 1804 and Princess Elizabeth's wonderful doll's house.

Other highlights include the Temperate House, the world's largest ornamental glasshouse, and nearby Evolution House, tracing plant evolution over 3500 million years; the idyllic Queen Charlotte's Cottage ( 10:00 - 16:00 Sat & Sun Jul & Aug), another place popular with 'mad' George III and his wife. Don't forget to see the Japanese Gateway and the celebrated 10-storey Pagoda (1761), designed by William Chambers.

Just north is the Marianne North Gallery featuring paintings on a botanical theme. Marianne North was one of those indomitable Victorian female travellers who roamed the continents from 1871 to 1885, painting plants and trees along the way. The results of her labour now cover the walls of this small purpose-built gallery. The Orangery near Kew Palace contains a restaurant, café and shop.

If you want a good overview of the gardens, jump aboard the Kew Explorer minitrain, which allows you to hop on and off at stops along the way. The full circuit takes about 40 minutes.

You can get to Kew Gardens by tube or train. Come out of the station and walk straight (west) along Station Ave, cross Kew Gardens Rd and then continue straight along Lichfield Rd. This will bring you to Victoria Gate. Alternatively, from April to October, boats run by the Westminster Passenger Services Association (tel: 7930 2062; www.wpsa.co.uk) sail from Westminster Pier to Kew Gardens up to four times a day.