Modern British restaurants in London
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A
Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s
This match made in heaven – London’s most celebrated chef in arguably its grandest hotel – will make you weak at the knees. A meal in the gorgeous art deco dining room is a special occasion indeed; the Ramsay flavours will have you reeling, from the pressed foie gras marinated in white port and the cannon of salt marsh lamb with crystallised walnuts and cumin, all the way to the cheese trolley, whether you choose the one with French, British or Irish number plates. Consider the six-course tasting menu (£80).
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B
Roast
The focal point at this unique restaurant and bar perched directly above Borough Market is the glassed-in kitchen with an open spit, where ribs of beef, suckling pigs, birds and game (no doubt sourced from the stalls below) are roasted. The emphasis is on roasted meats (featherblade of beef, lamb’s kidneys) and seasonal vegetables, though there are lighter dishes from salads to grilled fish. The views below of Borough Market on trading days (Thursday to Saturday) are frenetic.
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C
Bush Bar
You have to keep an eye out for this bar/restaurant, housed in a converted warehouse and with its entrance down an alleyway off Goldhawk Rd. It's light and breezy with a wonderful tented terrace, and the decent restaurant and bar attract a trendy media crowd after work with their great cocktails and food. The menu is familiar and comforting - London Particular, salt beef with braised cabbage, smoked haddock fishcakes - rather than inventive.
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D
Criterion Grill
This beautiful Marco Pierre White restaurant is all chandeliers, mirrors, marble and sparkling mosaics - one breathless wag has compared it to the inside of a Fabergé egg - but its most spectacular feature is the classic French food, which ranges from the delicate tian of Devon crab to roast suckling pig mussel. The daily lunch specials (usually British favourites like shepherd's pie and fish and chips) are a snip at around £13.
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E
Harwood Arms
A food-reviewer friend of ours with impeccable taste buds lists this gastropub as one of his favourite places to eat in London – sorry mate! – and returns not infrequently for the likes of game tea accompanied by venison sausage roll, grilled salted ox tongue with Jerusalem artichokes and/or Berkshire wood pigeon with Cumbrian air-dried ham. Carniphobes should hightail it west to the Gate.
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F
Butlers Wharf Chop House
A poster child for early Modern British cuisine, the Chop House continues to create upmarket variants on bangers and mash, bubble and squeak and fish pie, as well as ‘new-old’ arrivals like Old Spot pork from Gloucestershire and spatchcock chicken. A great view of Tower Bridge (which could be your main reason for visiting) is part of the deal but best enjoyed from an outdoor table.
reviewed
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G
Ransome’s Dock
Diners flock to this restaurant not because it’s trendy or on the dock of a bay (rather a narrow inlet of the Thames) but for fresh and very thoughtfully prepared food: smoked Lincolnshire eel fillets with buckwheat pancakes and crème fraîche; duck breast with apple sauce; and red cabbage organic lamb noisettes with roast root vegetables. Weekday two-course lunch is £15.
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H
Market
This much talked-about addition to Camden’s reliable yet slow-changing eating scene is all about simple, good British food. The light and airy space reflects this simplicity, and the menu manages to make classic cookery memorable with delights such as Rose veal with anchovy butter, spinach and chilli, and whole plaice with caper butter and chips.
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I
Bonds
There are two good reasons for coming to this very smart hotel restaurant: one is to glimpse the awe-inspiring lobby of Threadneedles Hotel; the other is the food. It's a mix of the traditional with the unusual, with dishes like braised pigs' cheeks with chorizo or smoked haddock tortellini with black pudding and buttered leeks.
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