Nahm

One night in Bangkok

Food

Service

Atmosphere

My wife and I speculated whether the decor in this place was criminally bland so customers focus 100% on their meals. It wasn't necessary to go to such lengths, since the food was magnificent, but that's the only possible justification for it looking like the reception of a Travelodge.

But yes, the menu is quite something. Thai is nowadays ubiquitous in the UK, but it is rare to find somewhere that has truly authentic flavours. Most Thai restaurants in the UK have become like Chinese - spiced down for wider acceptance. Nahm feels like you could actually be in Thailand, and dares to go further, adding surprising, novel and luxurious ingredients such as lobster, scallops and guinea fowl.

We shared the five-course traditional banquet, which is not as overwhelming as it sounds. The meal was balanced to perfection so that each course was a refreshment from the previous. The wine list also was exceptional, and the waiters were expert in establishing which would best compliment the meal. Sadly, the cost meant we would never be regulars, but it still felt like real value - a rich experience appropriate for a special occasion.