Things to do in North & East Cumbria
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Tullie House Museum
The city museum ranges through Carlisle's turbulent history, starting from its Celtic foundation through to the development of modern Carlisle. The museum has a strong archaeology collection, including a Bronze Age spear-mould, Roman tablets collected from Hadrian's Wall, and artefacts recovered from Viking burial sites in nearby Ormside and Hesket.
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cathedral
The city's red sandstone cathedral was originally constructed as a priory church in 1122. During the 1644-45 siege by Parliamentarian troops, two-thirds of the nave was torn down to help repair the city wall and castle. Serious restoration didn't begin until 1853, but a surprising amount survives, including the east window and part of the original Norman nave.
Notable features include the fine 14th-century east window, the 15th-century misericords, the lovely Brougham Triptych in the north transept, and some ornate choir carvings.
Surrounding the cathedral are other priory relics, including the 16th-century Fratry and the Prior's Tower.
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Carlisle Castle
Carlisle's brooding, rust-red castle lurks dramatically on the north side of the city. Founded around a Celtic and Roman stronghold, the Norman keep was added in 1092 by William Rufus, followed by successive refortifications by Henry II, Edward I and Henry VIII (who added the supposedly cannon-proof towers).
The castle has witnessed some dramatic events over the centuries: Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned here in 1568, and the castle was the site of a notorious eight-month siege during the English Civil War, when the Royalist garrison survived by eating rats, mice and the castle dogs before finally surrendering in 1645. Look out for the 'licking stones' in the dungeon, …
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Yanwath Gate Inn
Gastropub gorgeousness is at the order of the day at the Yat, 2 miles south of town. It's been named Cumbria's Top Dining Pub three times by the Good Pub Guide, and the grub puts many of the county's gastronomic restaurants to shame: wild venison, saltmarsh lamb, Brougham Hall chicken and crispy pork belly, chased down by Cumbrian cheeses and beers from three local breweries.
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St Andrews Church
Penrith's name derives from an old Celtic word meaning 'red fell', and the area's crimson sandstone can be seen in many town buildings, including the town's 19th-century church. A legendary giant (the 'rightful king of all Cumbria') is said to be buried in the churchyard, but the stone pillars supposedly marking his grave are actually the weathered remains of Celtic crosses.
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Penrith Castle
Opposite the station are the ruins of Penrith's 14th-century castle, built by William Strickland (later Bishop of Carlisle and Archbishop of Canterbury) and expanded by Richard III to resist Scottish raids, one of which razed the town in 1345.
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No 15 Café Bar
Fifteen reasons to visit this café-bar-gallery are chalked up on the blackboard behind the counter, but you won't need much persuasion. It's Penrith's best place for lunch, cakes and coffee, with a light-filled dining room and a gallery annexe displaying local photography and artwork; lunchtime mains range from turkey and cranberry burgers to homemade soups.
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Guildhall Museum
This tiny museum is housed in a wonky 15th-century town house built for Carlisle's trade guilds. Among the modest exhibits are a ceremonial mace, the city's stocks and a section of exposed wall showing the building's wattle-and-daub construction.
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Le Gall
Don't let the name fool you - this buzzy little bistro doesn't just do Franco-flavoured cuisine. The eclectic menu takes in flavours from practically everywhere, so you should be able to find something to take your fancy, whether it's an Italian panini or a Mexican fajita.
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Essen
This groovy new bar-diner is the newest entry on Carlisle's culinary scene, split over two floors and decked out in spare, contemporary style. There's a light lunch menu or a more extensive evening menu offering mainly fish, chicken and fusion flavours.
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Office
Sleek and chic, this is one of the favourite hangouts for Carlisle's hip set, kitted out in urban style with cube lights, razor-sharp tables and a massive industrial bar. Breakbeat, hip-hop and soul spin on the turntables.
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David's
Town-house dining with a gentlemanly air. David's has been a big name on the Carlisle scene for some years, and it's still up there with the best. Expect original mantelpieces and overhead chandeliers partnered with suave country dishes.
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Kings Own Royal Border Regiment Museum
The castle houses the Kings Own Royal Border Regiment Museum, which explores the history of Cumbria's Infantry Regiment. There are daily castle tours (April to September).
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Prior's Kitchen Restaurant
Housed in the former Fratry (monks' dining room) beside the cathedral, this reliable little tearoom is a good spot for cheap sandwiches, jacket spuds and afternoon tea.
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Open Book Visitor Guiding
Tours of Carlisle and the surrounding area, including visits to Carlisle Castle and Hadrian's Wall. Tours leave from the tourist office.
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Café Solo
For something rather less exclusive, this corner coffee bar has a vaguely Spanish vibe and serves great coffee by day, and cool Sol beers by night.
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Unit Lux Bar
Just along the street from Office, this is another achingly trendy bar with the requisite flat-screen TVs, retro seats and deep leather sofas.
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Alexandros
A lively Greek restaurant serving up huge, authentic plates of meze, seared chicken kebabs and grilled octopus.
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Brickyard
Carlisle's main (read: only) regular gig venue, housed in the former Memorial Hall.
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Townhouse
This cafe makes a handsome hideaway from the hustle of Lowther St. It's full of fairy lights, chalkboard menus and primary colours. Check out the double porridge choice and decide whether you're a northerner or a southerner…
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Teza Indian Canteen
After a disappointing dip in form, Teza's groundbreaking Indian is back in vogue, especially since the return of head chef Dinesh Rawat (who helped launch the restaurant back in 2005). This award-winning Indian does the usual bhunas (medium-hot dry curries) and bhajis, but it's the regionally influenced cuisine that fires things up: flavours from Kerala, Goa and Kashmir all make it into the mix.
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Rheged
Cunningly disguised as a Lakeland hill 2 miles west of Penrith, this visitor centre houses a large-screen Imax cinema and an exhibition on the history and geology of Cumbria, as well as a retail hall selling Cumbrian goods from handmade paper to chocolate and chutneys. The frequent X4/X5 bus stops at the centre.
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Prior's Kitchen Restaurant
Afternoon tea in this stone-vaulted cafe (formerly a monk's mess hall) has been a tradition in Carlisle for as long as anyone cares to remember. The cream teas are cracking, or there are quiches, cakes and rounds of sandwiches for something more filling.
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No 15
Our tip for the town's top lunch is this groovy cafe-gallery, proffering tempting pies, salads and wraps accompanied by first-rate coffee and freshly-mixed smoothies. Look out for art and photography exhibitions in the annexe, and late-night music sessions.
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