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The only dorm in town and one of the best in the country, Casa Frolaz is an eat-off-the-floor-clean type of place. It's in the home of Javier Díaz, a descendant of one of the oldest families in the country, who also happens to be a great host.
Hotel El Faro
Located on a quiet street, El Faro has 11 clean rooms, most windowless but all with fantastic landscape murals inside and out. They open onto a colorful courtyard and even have music piped in (don't worry, each room also has an off switch).
Dramatic headboards and spacious rooms are the signature of this renovated hotel. Rooms are spotless, with couch, dresser, small table, TV and bathroom; some have air-conditioning.
Although located in a sketchy neighborhood, Hotel Sahara is considered the best in town. It offers pleasant rooms, with niceties like in-room coffeemaker and complimentary bottled water.
The main draw is the location - just a block from the cathedral. Otherwise, rooms are worn and dark, and bathrooms have cold water only and no toilet seats. It's a manageable choice if you prefer easy access to the city's sights.
La Casa Mazeta
Casa De Huespedes Doña Mercedes
A friendly guesthouse with five clean, mid-sized rooms, all with cable TV, fan and hard beds. Two rooms share a bathroom in the hallway, while another two have an internal foyer and bathroom between them.
Laura's Casa De Huespedes
If you arrive on a weekend and the other hotels are full, another option is Laura's Casa de Huespedes, with so-so 1st-floor rooms and one good 2nd-floor room, plus lots of windows and a narrow wraparound terrace.
Owned and operated by two accomplished musicians, this is an artsy, homey and very cool place to crash: a renovated colonial home with one dorm and five private rooms that open onto a large courtyard garden with hammocks.
Hotel Posada Y Restaurante El Mirador
You'll find 19 spotless and spacious rooms here, with bathrooms (hot water extra), good beds and cable TV.