Shopping in El Salvador
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Market
San Miguel's Market, west and southwest of Parque Gerardo Barrios, makes for fascinating exploration; it's a labyrinthine journey through Salvadoran small commerce. Several square blocks of indoor and outdoor stands are connected by long, sometimes winding corridors, the sections distinguished by what is predominantly sold there.
Wandering through you will see shoes, machetes, pots and pans, bootleg CDs, electronics, hardware goods, soccer shirts, rough-hewn wood tables, hammocks, a small amount of artesanía, fruit, vegetables, whole plucked chickens and slabs of meat hanging from hooks. In the food section, smoke hangs low in the air and grease-spattered stands, packed…
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Centro Comercial de Artesanía
At Centro Comercial de Artesanía, one stand - just one! - sells beautiful indigo shirts, hemp-paper products and handmade ceramics. The rest sell tourist kitsch, most with 'El Salvador' emblazoned across them, plus perennial favorites, like the toilet-paper holder with a dry corncob mounted behind a piece of glass and the words 'In case of emergency, break glass' written next to a small hammer on a string. Wow.
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Mercado Ex-Cuartel
This army barracks-turned-public market has three sections: shoes, clothes and artesanías. The first two areas are aimed mainly at locals, although travelers can find decent leather sandals and cool soccer shirts (not to mention puffy pink dresses). The best artesanía products here are the hammocks, which hang from high hooks like fresh laundry, in many colors, sizes and varieties.
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Nahanché
Hands down, this boutique offers the best selection of Salvadoran artesanías (handicrafts) in town; you'll find everything from brilliant indigo place mats to intricate miniature figurines. Items are pricey but the craftsmanship can't be beat. A sister store is located in Metrocentro, although the quality simply isn't the same.
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Gallería de Arte Lucia Cañas
This beautiful colonial-era home houses an eclectic collection of paintings for sale and old photographs of Spanish émigres. Occasionally, music recitals also are hosted here. Open weekends only, it's a pleasant stop on your stroll through town. If you want to lounge awhile, you can enjoy a glass of wine in the shady courtyard.
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Mercado Nacional de Artesanías
A couple of dozen stands sell the gamut of Salvadoran crafts in this outdoor market: miniatures, colorful wood creations, black pottery, indigo dresses…you name it, they've probably got it. Shop around a bit before you buy - the quality varies quite a bit. It's located behind the Fería Internacional de El Salvador.
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El Arbol de Dios
If you like the colorful art of La Palma, you'll love this gallery, which features works by the artist who started it all - Fernando Llort. An impressive collection of Llort's lithographs, ceramics, tejidos (stitchwork) and canvases are sold here. Not cheap, but they're masterpieces.
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Metrocentro
Imagine walking into a three-story, 10-wing retail jungle. Said to be the largest mall in Central America, this place is mammoth and completely overwhelming - but also convenient and safe. If you can see past the teenagers checking each other out, you'll find almost anything you want.
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Galerías Escalón
San Salvador's poshest mall, Galerías Escalón, boasts three air-conditioned levels of upscale clothing and jewelry stores, electronics stores, cell-phone offices and banks. Grab some sushi at the swish food court then catch a movie at the new Cinépolis mega-cinema.
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La Casa del Escultor
This is the gallery and workshop of the talented sculptor Miguel Martino. Most of the week you'll find him working on his next pieces while surrounded by some of his beautiful - and finished - creations. On Sunday the workshop is transformed into a popular Argentinean restaurant.
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Shicali Ceramica
Beautiful ceramics are sold at this neighborhood pottery workshop that was created by ACOGIPRI, an association that is dedicated to bettering the lives of handicapped people in El Salvador. In fact, almost every item is created on-site by beneficiaries of the association.
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Proarmo
This cooperative specializes in artesanías made in Morazán. You'll find a wide assortment of crocheted items (hats, belts, bags, jewelry); there is also a smattering of wood, clay and henequen crafts. It's all kind of kitschy but it's got a lot of heart.
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La Pinacoteca
Whether you're interested in buying a high-end work of art, or just like to window shop, head to this superb art gallery. While showcased artwork changes regularly, there is always a good variety of paintings, sculptures, graphic art and photography on display.
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Super Selectos, Metro Sur
For self-caterers, Super Selectos, Metro Sur is a well-stocked supermarket hidden in the basement of Metro Sur. It's a good place to hit if you want to cook a meal or two back at the hostel. There's another branch in Centro Comercial San Luis.
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Mercado Central
The sprawling Mercado Central has everything you could want: produce, dairy products, animals (whole or in parts), herbal medicines, clothes, jewelry, toys. It's in a seedy part of town, though, so watch out for pickpockets.
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Mercado de Artesanías
A decent handicrafts market in the heart of town, selling items like indigo T-shirts, Llort-inspired letters and black clay pots from Guatajiagua. You have to dig a little for the good stuff, but it's there.
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Mayan Gifts Artesanías
Not the classiest of gift shops, but once you dig through the shiny key chains and loud T-shirts, you'll find a decent assortment of black clay pottery and colorful artesanías.
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Galería de Arte Shanay
Owner and artist Víctor Manuel Sanabria exhibits his realism-style paintings and those of his students in this gallery behind the church. Curios and antiques also are sold.
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Galería 1-2-3
A small upscale gallery selling modern paintings and sculptures by mostly Central American artists. It's next to Koffee Mix café; ring the bell to get in.
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Despensa de Don Juan
For self-caterers, Despensa de Don Juan is a large central supermarket where you can stock up on veggies, fruit or sandwich fixin's.
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La Ceiba Libros
You'll find a good selection of Spanish-language books here, especially if you're interested in Salvadoran history and literature.
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Despensa Familiar
For self-caterers, Despensa Familiar is a large central supermarket where you can stock up on veggies, fruit or sandwich fixin's.
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Mario's Deportes
Great for that Selección Nacional jersey or other Central American sports paraphernalia you've been searching for.
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Super Selectos, El Paseo Mall
For self-caterers, Super Selectos, El Paseo Mall is one of the only supermarkets in town with a gourmet food section.
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Supermercado Palmera
Supermercado Palmera is a modest grocery store, good for stocking up on fruit and dried goods for long hikes.
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