Things to do in San Salvador
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Museo de la Palabra y La Images
In its brand-new location, the Museum of Word and Image is a museum of Salvadoran writing and writers, with a heavy emphasis on the revolutionary movement of the '70s and '80s. No surprise really - the museum's director is Carlos Henríquez Consalvi, aka 'Santiago,' the Venezuelan-born journalist who was the founder and main voice of Radio Venceremos during the war. (You're liable to see him around the museum most days.)
The museum has three small exhibit areas, through which it rotates compelling exhibits on themes such as writers (like Roque Dalton and Salarrué), the massacre of 1932, and women in Salvadoran history. Throughout the museum are terrific black-and-white ph…
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Military History Museum
Head to the troubling but surprisingly interesting Military History Museum. In a series of interconnected, barrack-like rooms, President Maximiliano Martínez is praised for the 'resolve and patriotism' with which he suppressed Communist insurgents in 1932 - some 30,000 indigenous men, women and children were killed in the process - and Colonel Domingo Monterrosa, alleged mastermind of the massacre at El Mozote, is described as having 'written pages of glory for the history of the armed forces.'
On the walls and in floor-mounted displays is an incredible array of rifles, machine guns, grenade launchers, mortars, flame throwers, radio and night-vision equipment - almost a…
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La Ventana
Located in the heart of the bohemian bar-lounge scene, La Ventana is a smart, laid-back place that's popular day or night. Tables line the long windows - perfect for people watching - and the menu offers an excellent variety of international meals. Clients can choose from any number of creative sandwiches, big salads, pasta dishes and quiche…plenty of vegetarian options! Food is prepared fresh and portions are decent.
Belgian and German ales are also served, as are tasty coffee drinks. A lively bar scene at night makes it a particularly cool place to have a bite. Buy postcards and La Ventana will mail them for free.
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Los Tacos de Paco
Near Metrosur, this may be the most culturally enlightened taco joint you'll ever encounter. It hosts a poetry reading on Wednesday at 18:00, and has a small but good selection of books and artwork for sale. And as for the tacos…the sign says 'The Best Mexican Food in El Salvador,' which is either true or nearly true - either way, you won't be disappointed.
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Café Baguette Lido
A friendly bakery with two pages of creative sandwiches, divided into lite and, well, the opposite of lite. Try the turkey breast with cottage cheese, or salmon with capers, both served on wholegrain bread; or turn the page to the pesto chicken and NY Polish sausages. All come with a salad, fries or potato salad - whether you want it or not!
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Típicos Margoth
A popular cafeteria-style restaurant serving, as the name suggests, típico. Food is fresh and served in good-sized portions. There's occasional live music on Saturday night.
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Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad
The Mélida Anaya Montes Spanish Language School is one of the principal programs offered by CIS, a community advocacy organization founded in 1993 by foreign and Salvadoran solidarity workers following the signing of the peace accords. Courses incorporate progressive social and political themes into assignments and discussions. Students live with local families and classes, taught by Salvadorans, are held weekday mornings.
Afternoons are reserved for the school's 'Political Cultural Program,' which entails daytrips (and occasional weekend overnights) to coffee plantations, women's' cooperatives, health centers, social organizations, and other sites, to give students an i…
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Tin Marín Museo de los Niños
Where to start? This gem of a museum has so many interesting hands-on features, your little one may need a return trip. Roughly divided into four sections - health, environment, technology and culture - exhibits include a miniature supermarket (to learn about food groups), a huge artificial volcano (complete with smoke and red lights for lava) and a papermaking area (to learn about recycling).
There's a cockpit and fuselage of a real Boeing 727 airplane, and a real VW Beetle that kids can handpaint to their heart's delight - part of an exhibit on color and senses, it looks like an Andy Warhol piece. Another kid-favorite is the Casa de Gravedad (Gravity House) - a small ho…
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Plaza Barrios
The main plaza is called Plaza Barrios and dedicated to a former president and crusader for the separation of church and state. There is a statue of Barrios astride a horse in the middle of the plaza, turned to face the cathedral and streaked (of course) with pigeon shit. The Palacio Nacional is on the west side of the plaza and all the trees have been removed directly in front of it - the view is clear, but the stone-paved plaza can get hot in the afternoon as a result.
Plaza Barrios is where most political protests begin or end (on our last visit, a group of family members and advocates for imprisoned gang members took control of the cathedral to protest new highly rest…
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Museum of Popular Art
Yet another terrific museum is the Museum of Popular Art, which showcases El Salvador's underappreciated contribution to Central American folk art. The main attraction is the Sala Dominga Herrera, which describes the evolution of 'sorpresas,' the tiny clay figures made and sold in nearby Ilobasco.
Dominga Herrera (1911-1982), the daughter of ceramic doll makers, gained modest fame for her miniature and meticulously painted creations, which she began making on a whim but have since become a cottage industry for the whole town, even the country. Classic sorpresas are single pieces, usually portraying a profession, domestic scene or, more recently, sexual entanglements. Cont…
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Iglesia El Rosario
What appears from the outside like a dilapidated airport hangar is, in fact, one of the most intriguing churches in the country. After entering through an easy-to-miss corridor, you'll see that Iglesia El Rosario opens into a shallow nave backed by a high brick wall and soaring arched roof above. The roof isn't a true arch, though, but a series of overhanging steps inset with a rainbow of stained-glass panels.
On the walls are figures made of scrap metal, with larger, more detailed stone and metal statues displayed in the wings on either side of the main entrance. Besides the simple beauty of the place, the contrasts are striking - the modern industrial-style artwork, the…
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Centro Monseñor Romero
This small center pays homage to the martyred archbishop, assassinated by government agents in 1980. It is also the place where six Jesuits, who, along with their maid and her daughter, were slain in their sleep by military forces in 1989. The displays include photos of the murder scene - be forewarned, they're pretty grizzly. University students give tours.
To get here, take bus 44. Don't get off at the main entrance; instead, wait until the smaller back entrance on Calle de Mediterreáno (ask the driver if you're unsure). From there, Centro Romero is a few minutes' walk into the campus; ask a student for directions or look at one of the posted campus maps. You can also w…
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Parque Libertad
Two blocks east of Plaza Barrios is Parque Libertad, with a winged statue of Liberty in the middle. This is the more pleasant of the two plazas, with islands of grass and trees, and many benches to sit on. The traffic is still loud - and this is the end of the line for a number of local bus services - but the park is as good a place as any to relax and take in the scene.
Both plazas are relatively safe, but always be aware of your surroundings and don't linger after dark. And it's probably best not to bring your camera - though you'll regret not being able to capture some of the scenes down there! Foreigners are already a rare sight downtown - you may be the only one when…
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Las Vacas Gordas
There should be no mistaking that beef is the specialty at 'The Fat Cows' restaurant in the Zona Rosa. But just in case - or else to really freak out the vegetarians - black and white cow skins are used for the chair backs and as wall hangings. Choose from a dozen cuts of meat, from medallions to rib-eye, most of which can be ordered in various portions depending on your appetite and the thickness of your wallet.
If your wallet is more carpaccio than filet mignon, check the menu for frequent two-for-one specials. Outdoor tables are especially pleasant, occupying a semi-shaded courtyard with plants hanging from a thick wooden trellis.
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Museo Nacional de Antropología David J Guzmán
Absolutely one of the best museums in the country, the Museo Nacional de Antropología David J Guzmán is worth a solid morning's visit. It may not look like much on the outside, but once you walk through the front door, you'll find it hard to leave.
Inside are two expansive floors of thoughtfully and beautifully presented exhibits on the Maya, the development of the people and land of El Salvador, the arts, religion and economy of the country…even prehistoric rock carvings and an artifact garden. The only downside of the museum is that signage is in Spanish only. It's worth bringing your dictionary.
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Jardín Botánico La Laguna
Also called Plan de La Laguna, Jardín Botánico La Laguna is a lovely, cool botanical garden, at the bottom of a volcanic crater. Gravel and cement paths wind through the garden, where trees and plants are labeled and offer plenty of shade along the way.
Most people arrive by car, but it's easy enough to take bus 44 from the city center or Blvd de los Héroes, and ask the driver to let you off at the right spot - it's easy to miss, so ask a couple times so he doesn't forget. From there it's a 1km downhill walk to the garden. Signage is sparse, so ask along the way if you're unsure.
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San Salvador Fútbol Club
It should come as no surprise that fútbol (soccer) is the biggest sport in San Salvador. The capitol's team San Salvador Fútbol Club was formed in 2002 and joined the la Primera División del Fútbol Salvadorenó, the major league of Salvadoran soccer, straight away. Despite its youth, the team won the national championship in 2003, giving capitalinos something to cheer about.
When at home, San Salvador Fútbol Club plays in the 80,000-seat Estadio Mágico González, also known as Estadio Flor Blanco, located west of Parque Cuscatlán.
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Museum of Modern Art
San Salvador's Museum of Modern Art is small but well designed. The permanent exhibit, called 'Puntos Cardinales,' uses the artwork of several generations of Salvadoran modern painters to explore facets of the national consciousness. Two temporary exhibit halls feature mostly Latin American artists.
The museum is a healthy uphill walk from the anthropology museum, and sits just behind the large Monumento a la Revolución. The museum restaurant, Punto Café, is a local favorite, but isn't particularly cheap. For something less expensive, try the street stands near the parking area.
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Sidewalk Comedores
You'll find Sidewalk Comedores lining the streets surrounding Plaza Hula Hula, a block west of Plaza Barrios. They're all essentially the same, but everyone you ask has a personal favorite. We liked the ones on the east side of 1a Av Sur across from the park, mainly for the clean vinyl tablecloths, friendly service and mid-afternoon sun, but maybe you'll see others that call to you.
Expect typical Salvadoran fare, including panes de pollo (chicken sandwiches), bistec encebollada (onion grilled beef), sopa de res (beef stew) and more.
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Kamakura
This Escalón restaurant is arguably San Salvador's finest for authentic Japanese food. The restaurant is divided into several intimate areas - a sunny front room, a back room with an open-air fountain, and another with low Japanese-style tables. The specialty is the sushi, nigiri and sashimi, with most fish flown in fresh from Miami. The plato del dia (daily special) is served in a bamboo box and usually includes a soup, tempura, sushi, and a main dish - say, teriyaki chicken.
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Akwaterra
Run by Julio and Gaby Vega, an English-speaking Salvadoran couple, this outfitter offers top-notch eco-adventure tours, both 'akwa' (like surfing and kayaking) and 'terra' (including hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking). Transport and accommodations can be arranged, either on the beach or at a beautiful artsy cabin on a coffee plantation north of Juayúa. The business has no office, but does have a terrific website with detailed information. All tours can be personalized.
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El Salvador Divers
A friendly, professional, five-star dive shop offering all levels of scuba instruction, and fun dives in Lago Ilopango, Lago Coatepeque and in the Pacific near Los Cóbanos. Mulitday lake trips may include free lodging. The shop also organizes occasional excursions to Roatán, Honduras, including air travel, room, board, drinks, and between four and 10 dives. English and Spanish are spoken; instructional material in additional languages is available.
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Universidad Centroamericana José Simeon Cañas
San Salvador has two major universities and a number of smaller ones. Travelers are most likely to have heard of Universidad Centroamericana José Simeon Cañas, whose campus and students figured prominently in the civil war. At UCA, pronounced oo-ka, the Centro Monseñor Romero commemorates the assassinated archbishop and other fallen religious workers, including six Jesuit priests who were murdered at the center itself in 1989.
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Reyna Tours
Specializing in 'war tourism,' with trips near and around Cerro Guazapa, a former FMLN stronghold and the scene of bitter fighting. Tours explore the day-to-day reality of guerrilla life and warfare by visiting trenches, field hospitals and tatús - tunnels and underground rooms dug by rebel soldiers - preserved from the war years. Custom tours are available; minimum four people. Call for details (they'll often answer at night and on weekends).
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Taquería Los Tapatíos
At the far western end of Paseo General Escalón at Plaza Masferrer is this large open-air taco stand, serving up great tacos, burritos and tortas stuffed with the meat of your choice: chicken, beef, pork, adobado (spicy marinated meat), al pastor (seasoned rotisserie pork). Wooden tables with benches are set up off the road, so the traffic noise can be overpowering - then again, the bustling informality is part of the charm.
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