Military History Museum

Lonely Planet review

For the other side of the story, head to the troubling but surprisingly interesting Military History Museum . In a series of interconnected, barrack-like rooms, President Maximiliano Martínez is praised for the 'resolve and patriotism' with which he suppressed Communist insurgents in 1932 - some 30,000 indigenous men, women and children were killed in the process - and Colonel Domingo Monterrosa, alleged mastermind of the massacre at El Mozote, is described as having 'written pages of glory for the history of the armed forces.'

On the walls and in floor-mounted displays is an incredible array of rifles, machine guns, grenade launchers, mortars, flame throwers, radio and night-vision equipment - almost all made in the USA - as well as original copies of the 1992 peace accords. A number of military tanks, trucks, helicopters, and even the Pope Mobile used when the pontiff visited El Salvador, are also on display. But the most interesting part of the museum is a huge relief map of El Salvador. Completed in June 2005, and measuring 34m by 19m, the map highlights the country's rugged topography with more than a dozen volcanoes and mountains, and well-marked rivers, roads and cities nestled in between. It's well worth a visit; you can walk here from the zoo or natural history museum. A free guide service is available.