Things to do in Eastern El Salvador
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Chaparrastique
Also known as Volcán de San Miguel, Chaparrastique is the 2130m volcano towering southwest of San Miguel. It's a real behemoth, and climbing it requires some advance planning (and should be done only in the dry season). First, you'll need a police escort, usually arranged through the Chinameca police station, whose jurisdiction the volcano falls into. Two weeks' notice is preferred, but with some friendly pleading you may be able to get an escort, within a couple of days.
You'll have to fax a written request with the date and names of the people in your group. There is no fee, but definitely bring food for all - say, tamales for breakfast and pupusas for lunch - and extr…
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Capilla Medalla Milagrosa
Built in 1904 by an order of French nuns and modeled after their church in Paris, the small Gothic-style Capilla Medalla Milagrosa is one of San Miguel's best attractions. It's a sublime place, set in the middle of large tree-filled grounds, with a high arched ceiling (painted baby blue) and famously gorgeous stained windows.
The altar is populated with flowers and statues of saints, most prominently the Virgin Mary, who has a neon crown and displays the words - also in neon - María, concebida sin pecado, rogad por nos que recurrimos a vos (Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee). The saying comes from the namesake 'Miraculous Medal,' which w…
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Prodetur
Perquín's tourism and environmental-protection organization, Prodetur, operates the eco-hostel, Eco Albergue de Río Sapo, in the Río Sapo protected area, and offers guided hikes there and around Perquín. Guides are local residents, many of them former guerrilla members, and have ample information on the area as well as fascinating accounts of the war years; most speak Spanish only.
The longer hikes are best begun early in the morning to avoid the heat and (more importantly) afternoon rains. Stop by the Prodetur office when you arrive to arrange a tour for the following day; or call ahead if you're only visiting for a day. If you stay at the eco-hostel, the guide will …
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Market
San Miguel's Market, west and southwest of Parque Gerardo Barrios, makes for fascinating exploration; it's a labyrinthine journey through Salvadoran small commerce. Several square blocks of indoor and outdoor stands are connected by long, sometimes winding corridors, the sections distinguished by what is predominantly sold there.
Wandering through you will see shoes, machetes, pots and pans, bootleg CDs, electronics, hardware goods, soccer shirts, rough-hewn wood tables, hammocks, a small amount of artesanía, fruit, vegetables, whole plucked chickens and slabs of meat hanging from hooks. In the food section, smoke hangs low in the air and grease-spattered stands, packed …
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Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña
Just west of the parque central, the Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña is an excellent museum that charts the causes and course of the armed struggle with photos, posters, weapons and histories of those who served and died in action. Weapons range from high-tech hardware to homemade bombs and mines. Behind the main building are the remains of the downed helicopter that carried Lieutenant Colonel Domingo Monterrosa, head of the notorious Atlacatl Battalion, to his death.
The studios of the FMLN's clandestine station Radio Venceremos (We Shall Prevail Radio) are also here; an elaborate hoax involving a radio transmitter rigged with explosives was what brought Monterrosa…
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Cerro el Pericón-El Mozote
This three-hour hike is the most popular of Prodetur's tours. It starts in Perquín and climbs Cerro el Pericón, the summit of which affords fine views of the Río Sapo and the surrounding valley. Descending the other side, you reach the Río Sapo protected area and eco-hostal. After stopping for a snack and possibly a swim - it's cold! - continue to El Mozote to see the monument to the 1981 massacre.
From there it's possible to walk to the highway (about 10km along a dirt road, through the town of Arambala) or you can wait for bus, which passes at 12:45. At the highway, hop on one of the frequent pickup trucks for the last 3km back to Perquín.
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Walking Tour, Cerro Gigante
A 6km loop starts behind the Gigante Casa de Huepedes El Gigante and passes a number of historical and war-related sights. You pass the Pueblo Viejo (Old Town), where Perquín was originally located, and a Lenca cemetery where stones are used to mark graves instead of crosses. Doubling back you pass a container used by the UN to store weapons following the signing of the Peace Accords.
The trail climbs Cerro Perón, in the shadow of Cerro Gigante, then returns to the starting point, passing a guerrilla hospital on the way. Though this can all be done solo, but a guide helps bring the history to life.
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La Cocina de Ma'Anita
Perquín's best hotel also has its most formal restaurant, though the huge A-frame dining area is more ski-lodge than mountain bistro. Tables along the front windows get nice morning light and have overhead lamps on henequen cords for nighttime. The owner may install booths, which would class it up a bit.
The food is reliable and good, but not spectacular, ranging from taco salad to chicken with mango chutney to a four-person parrillada (platter of grilled meat, sausage and chicken). Afterward, head up to the much cozier bar for drinks.
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Antojitos Marisol
On the south side of the parque central, this is a classic greasy spoon. Handwritten menus and a few printed addendums are taped to the wall at the head of each of the long wooden tables, which have benches and tablecloths.
The walls are aqua-green and the florescent lights are about as unflattering as light can be, yet it's somehow appealing - anyway, it's one of only two places in town open late. Beers come with small glasses and simple botanas (appetizers).
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El Mandarín
Laminated tables with conference-room chairs are arranged in straight lines, four deep, at this popular Chinese hotel-restaurant. The dining room is a bit worn, but clean, and maintained in arctic conditions by industrial-strength air-con. Like so many Chinese restaurants in Latin America, service is lightning quick, if not exactly warm, and the portions enormous. Two can share a plate of shrimp chow mien, a side of wontons and two beers for under twelve dollars.
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Antiguo Teatro Nacional
Just around the corner from the main plaza sits the Antiguo Teatro Nacional . Opened in 1909, this neoclassical building was converted into a movie theater during the silent-film era, and later functioned as the Telecom building and a public hospital. At the time of research it was undergoing a slow renovation - there were no stage lights and only plastic chairs - but music concerts and spoken-word performances are held often, and typically free of charge.
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Cocina de Mama Toya y Mama Juana
Nothing fancy here, just good fresh típica (regional specialities) served in a clean comfortable setting at decent prices. It's part of the Hotel Perquín Real - or rather the hotel is part of the restaurant, as the latter was open first - and its rooms open onto a dining room with rows of wood tables and benches. It's an open-air setting, so be sure to bundle up in the winter months. It's at the south entrance to town.
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Centro Comercial de Artesanía
At Centro Comercial de Artesanía, one stand - just one! - sells beautiful indigo shirts, hemp-paper products and handmade ceramics. The rest sell tourist kitsch, most with 'El Salvador' emblazoned across them, plus perennial favorites, like the toilet-paper holder with a dry corncob mounted behind a piece of glass and the words 'In case of emergency, break glass' written next to a small hammer on a string. Wow.
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City Tour
This walking tour of Perquín focusses on events that took place here during the war. Most of the sights are right around the parque central, including the Casa de la Cultura (formerly a military barracks) and the church. You'll also visit the Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña and Cerro de Perquín (entrance fees not included). A nice option following lunch and a longer tour in the morning.
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Cerro de Perquín
This is the small hill that rises behind town, with a pretty view from the top. Prodetur is planning to install interpretive signs along the easy 1km trail to the summit, explaining some of the natural and historical significance of the area. There is also talk of charging an entry fee. Look for the trail opposite the entrance to the Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña, near a public parking lot.
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La Herradura
Specializing in high-quality imported meat and seafood, this is a favorite of wealthy San Migueleños and considered by many to be the best restaurant in town. The rib eye, surf and turf, and parrillada are classics; the punta jalapeña is a spicy alternative, served with chorizo, potatos and veggies. Service is excellent. It's located off-street in a small commercial center.
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Area Natural Protegida Río Sapo
Southeast of Perquín, the Río Guaco and Río Talchiga tumble over several picturesque waterfalls before meeting southeast of Perquín to form the Río Sapo, considered the cleanest river in El Salvador. An agreement between landowners and the local environmental organization has set aside 6000 hectares (about 14,826 acres) to create the Area Natural Protegida Río Sapo .
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Walking Tour, Quebrada de Perquín
Walking Tour, Quebrada de Perquín A small natural swimming hole with a modest waterfall. It's right at the intersection of two dirt roads that see very little traffic but still detract from the scene. It's a pleasant, if steep, descent and a long climb back up. Follow the road past Perquín's cemetery just south of town. May be dry February through April.
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Pan y Cakes Liz
Not much to look at, but an oasis of friendly service in the hectic streets just west of the market. Fill your tray with good comida a la vista, including eggs, tamales, plantains, beans and coffee - as with most buffet-style places, it's best to come during (or slightly before) the morning and noon rush, when the food is freshest.
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Comedor y Pupusería Chilita
One of the most popular restaurants in San Miguel, this open-air place offers a good variety of meals - from a steamed vegetable and beet salad to a hefty grilled steak dish. Repeat diners are the main clientele, but everyone leaves full and happy. After 16:00, steaming pupusas are served up from the side entrance.
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South Beach
One of the newer clubs located just north of the triangle (on the highway), South Beach plays a mix of salsa, reguetón and techno, and cultivates a somewhat wilder reputation by hosting wet T-shirt contests and other events. It has one large dance floor, a balcony level and air-con.
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Pollo Camperkin
Pollo Camperkin Comida a la vista (meal served buffet) is prepared daily at this modest cafeteria - there is typically a chicken dish (as the name suggests), vegetables and beans. Arrive early for each meal to get the best pickin's. Around sunset pupusas are served up hot and fresh.
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Papagallo Bar & Grill
Papagallo Bar & Grill it attracts a slightly older and wealthier crowd than the other clubs, but by no means is this place dull. A large hardwood floor and strong air-con make for fun dancing, and there's an outdoor patio area if you need a breather. Live concerts are held occasionally.
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Bati-jugos Carlitos
Crowded and friendly, this tiny restaurant is known for its huge variety of batidos (shakes) and jugos (juices) - 45 in all. In addition to being a great place to get a drink, it's also good for tasty and cheap sandwiches, burgers and chicken plates. Two thumbs up.
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La Pema
This San Miguel institution is famous for its mariscada - creamy seafood soup, served with a mallet to crack shellfish and two thick cheese tortillas. It's not cheap and it's a trek to get there - 5km along the road to Playa El Cuco - but it's worth the effort and expense.
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