Things to do in San Miguel
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Chaparrastique
Also known as Volcán de San Miguel, Chaparrastique is the 2130m volcano towering southwest of San Miguel. It's a real behemoth, and climbing it requires some advance planning (and should be done only in the dry season). First, you'll need a police escort, usually arranged through the Chinameca police station, whose jurisdiction the volcano falls into. Two weeks' notice is preferred, but with some friendly pleading you may be able to get an escort, within a couple of days.
You'll have to fax a written request with the date and names of the people in your group. There is no fee, but definitely bring food for all - say, tamales for breakfast and pupusas for lunch - and extr…
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Capilla Medalla Milagrosa
Built in 1904 by an order of French nuns and modeled after their church in Paris, the small Gothic-style Capilla Medalla Milagrosa is one of San Miguel's best attractions. It's a sublime place, set in the middle of large tree-filled grounds, with a high arched ceiling (painted baby blue) and famously gorgeous stained windows.
The altar is populated with flowers and statues of saints, most prominently the Virgin Mary, who has a neon crown and displays the words - also in neon - María, concebida sin pecado, rogad por nos que recurrimos a vos (Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee). The saying comes from the namesake 'Miraculous Medal,' which w…
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Market
San Miguel's Market, west and southwest of Parque Gerardo Barrios, makes for fascinating exploration; it's a labyrinthine journey through Salvadoran small commerce. Several square blocks of indoor and outdoor stands are connected by long, sometimes winding corridors, the sections distinguished by what is predominantly sold there.
Wandering through you will see shoes, machetes, pots and pans, bootleg CDs, electronics, hardware goods, soccer shirts, rough-hewn wood tables, hammocks, a small amount of artesanía, fruit, vegetables, whole plucked chickens and slabs of meat hanging from hooks. In the food section, smoke hangs low in the air and grease-spattered stands, packed …
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El Mandarín
Laminated tables with conference-room chairs are arranged in straight lines, four deep, at this popular Chinese hotel-restaurant. The dining room is a bit worn, but clean, and maintained in arctic conditions by industrial-strength air-con. Like so many Chinese restaurants in Latin America, service is lightning quick, if not exactly warm, and the portions enormous. Two can share a plate of shrimp chow mien, a side of wontons and two beers for under twelve dollars.
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Antiguo Teatro Nacional
Just around the corner from the main plaza sits the Antiguo Teatro Nacional . Opened in 1909, this neoclassical building was converted into a movie theater during the silent-film era, and later functioned as the Telecom building and a public hospital. At the time of research it was undergoing a slow renovation - there were no stage lights and only plastic chairs - but music concerts and spoken-word performances are held often, and typically free of charge.
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Centro Comercial de Artesanía
At Centro Comercial de Artesanía, one stand - just one! - sells beautiful indigo shirts, hemp-paper products and handmade ceramics. The rest sell tourist kitsch, most with 'El Salvador' emblazoned across them, plus perennial favorites, like the toilet-paper holder with a dry corncob mounted behind a piece of glass and the words 'In case of emergency, break glass' written next to a small hammer on a string. Wow.
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La Herradura
Specializing in high-quality imported meat and seafood, this is a favorite of wealthy San Migueleños and considered by many to be the best restaurant in town. The rib eye, surf and turf, and parrillada are classics; the punta jalapeña is a spicy alternative, served with chorizo, potatos and veggies. Service is excellent. It's located off-street in a small commercial center.
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Pan y Cakes Liz
Not much to look at, but an oasis of friendly service in the hectic streets just west of the market. Fill your tray with good comida a la vista, including eggs, tamales, plantains, beans and coffee - as with most buffet-style places, it's best to come during (or slightly before) the morning and noon rush, when the food is freshest.
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Comedor y Pupusería Chilita
One of the most popular restaurants in San Miguel, this open-air place offers a good variety of meals - from a steamed vegetable and beet salad to a hefty grilled steak dish. Repeat diners are the main clientele, but everyone leaves full and happy. After 16:00, steaming pupusas are served up from the side entrance.
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South Beach
One of the newer clubs located just north of the triangle (on the highway), South Beach plays a mix of salsa, reguetón and techno, and cultivates a somewhat wilder reputation by hosting wet T-shirt contests and other events. It has one large dance floor, a balcony level and air-con.
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Papagallo Bar & Grill
Papagallo Bar & Grill it attracts a slightly older and wealthier crowd than the other clubs, but by no means is this place dull. A large hardwood floor and strong air-con make for fun dancing, and there's an outdoor patio area if you need a breather. Live concerts are held occasionally.
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Bati-jugos Carlitos
Crowded and friendly, this tiny restaurant is known for its huge variety of batidos (shakes) and jugos (juices) - 45 in all. In addition to being a great place to get a drink, it's also good for tasty and cheap sandwiches, burgers and chicken plates. Two thumbs up.
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La Pema
This San Miguel institution is famous for its mariscada - creamy seafood soup, served with a mallet to crack shellfish and two thick cheese tortillas. It's not cheap and it's a trek to get there - 5km along the road to Playa El Cuco - but it's worth the effort and expense.
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Marquís Discotheque Bar
A gay-friendly (but not gay-exclusive) bar and disco at the back of Plaza San Felipe, a small commercial center. The light is very dim and there's not much seating, but the music - a mix of techno and hip-hop - should keep you on your feet. Drinks are cheaper here than elsewhere.
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Museo Regional del Oriente
Don't waste your time at the Museo Regional del Oriente. Located inside the Casa de Cultura, it contains a small collection of photographs of churches and colonial buildings, as well as a bit of pottery. Few items have descriptive signs - it's a good thing it's free.
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Comedor Carolina
A popular - and packed - lunchtime favorite, Carolina's serves fresh comida a la vista. Salvadoran dishes change daily but you can always be assured of a vegetable, chicken and meat dish. Arrive early for the best selection of food and a seat under a fan.
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Jugos y Licuados El Paisa
A great juice and licuado (fresh fruit drink blended with milk or water) shop. In case you don't know the name of your favorite fruit, there are painted wooden examples mounted on the wall over the counter.
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Puerta Vieja
Most people come here to have a few drinks before heading somewhere for dancing, preferably somewhere with air-con. There is a small dance floor here, though, and all sorts of music finds its way to the turntable.
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Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Paz
Facing Parque David J Guzmán, Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Paz is San Miguel's cathedral and dates from the 18th century. It was heavily damaged during the civil war.
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Pastelería Francesa
With nonstop air-con, booths galore and a steady stream of fresh pastries, this bakery is great place for a mid-afternoon sugar fix.
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Despensa de Don Juan
For self-caterers, Despensa de Don Juan is a large central supermarket where you can stock up on veggies, fruit or sandwich fixin's.
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Despensa Familiar
For self-caterers, Despensa Familiar is a large central supermarket where you can stock up on veggies, fruit or sandwich fixin's.
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