Chaparrastique

Lonely Planet review

Also known as Volcán de San Miguel, Chaparrastique is the 2130m volcano towering southwest of San Miguel. It's a real behemoth, and climbing it requires some advance planning (and should be done only in the dry season). First, you'll need a police escort, usually arranged through the Chinameca police station, whose jurisdiction the volcano falls into. Two weeks' notice is preferred, but with some friendly pleading you may be able to get an escort, within a couple of days.

You'll have to fax a written request with the date and names of the people in your group. There is no fee, but definitely bring food for all - say, tamales for breakfast and pupusas for lunch - and extra water. The road up begins near a coffee plantation in the community of Placitas, off the Carr Panamericana - the police will guide you. Most people leave their car with the guards at the plantation entrance and continue by foot, following the road up a steep and seemingly endless series of switchbacks through coffee fields. Footpaths used by workers cut straight up through the waxy trees - a shorter but tougher route. Near the top coffee plants give way to thick grass and scrub trees and then a barren moonscape - the last 1km or so (about 45 minutes) is very steep and rocky, and you'll be clambering up on all fours for much of it.At the top are stunning views of eastern El Salvador, its hills, coastline and patchwork of farms and plantations. The crater is hundreds of meters deep, with brown, black and white striations on the walls, and a jumble of boulders at the bottom. It can be cold and windy on top, yet intensely bright - bring a sweatshirt and sunscreen, and, of course, good shoes. Up and back, budget eight to nine hours. Theoretically, you can get permission from the plantation to drive all the way to the beginning of the last, hardest section. It's not safe to leave your car there unattended, but one of the police escorts may be happy to stay behind. It's worth asking about if you aren't up for the whole climb.