Getting there & away
The Upper Egypt Bus Co (532 5068; Midan al-Mahatta), opposite the train station, runs services to Cairo, Luxor, Hurghada and Suez, but at the time of our visit foreigners were only allowed to leave Qena by organised tour, private taxi or train. All main north–south trains stop at Qena. There are 1st-/2nd-class air-con trains to Luxor (E£18/12, 40 minutes) and trains to Al-Balyana (2nd/3rd class E£12/6, two hours), if you want to visit Abydos.
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